I am starting to think about flex track and wondering who makes the best code 83 flex in ho and why you say that (cost, looks,etc). I also want to know if anyone have a fairly good source. The best price I have seen has been $1.97 for a three section for Atlas.
Micro-engineering makes it weathered and unweathered. It is a lot better than atlas and is worth every dollar more. However Atlas is is still very good trck for the money, if you can't afford Micro-engineereing, go with atlas half of my old layout was great with atlas. by the way ,<marquee>DON"T BUY BRASS TRACK!!!</marquee> ------------------ TrainBoard.com MEMBER#204 Appalachian & Atlantic Model Railroad "QUALITY at WORK with SAFTEY in MIND"
Peco is pretty good also. I used a lot of Atlas flex because it is affordable, but ALWAYS check the track to make sure it is in gauge!! I had some difficulty with it being slightly out of gauge. It could be that I had a bad batch, but check just the same. And I agree...NO brass track!! Happy Modeling!! John ------------------ The Santa Fe and Southwestern, Chief of the Southwest!!
Tigerman, My experience with Shinnohara, Peco, and Atlas in nickle silver flex track, is that there is some tolerance variations between batches. The only problems I have run into has been with trying to run Bachmann and Rivarossi engines on code 83 track. The extra long wheel flanges will bump up over rail spikes, and the web in frogs. If ALL of your rolling stock is to NMRA code RP-25 wheel flange depth, the rail width variation does not derail any of the fifty engines I have run on it. The HO gauge is supposed to be .650" but I have only found that on Atlas brass track sections I bought in 1948 sized code .100! I was unduely upset when I bought my first flex track when it didn't fit one of my hand made turnouts (that was perfectly in gauge) and spiked to wood Tru-Scale switch bed stock. The flex measured .680", so I clipped off about an inch and a half of the plastic "spikes" inside the flex rails, slipped rail joiners on, and lined the rails up ok. I spiked the outside just to keep any strain in location, and glued the rest of the flex track in place. Lasted 4 yrs til I had to move. I do not run Proto HO wheels, so no problem except I have to run code .100 because the wheels with long flanges are solid plastic including the flanges, then have a very thin nickle electro-plateing applied to carry current, and save the factory the cost of providing us with good brass tired wheels, plated or not. (I know this because I tried to turn the flanges down on a set, and cut through the plating at .001" deep, ruined the wheel. You can not buy one PAIR of wheels from either company, they will only sell a whole set which includes the pair with those @#$%^&* awfull rubber tires on them. ------------------ Watash #982
I use almost all Atlas code 83 on my layout, but I also use some ME code 83 track and #6 turnouts. I've shied away from Shinohara because of the price. There will be some folks who beef about the "floppiness" of Atlas track, and the claim that it's not easy to curve. I say boiler sludge! The nail holes in the flex are not visible from the top, but you can poke out the ones you want to nail the track down until you paint & ballast the track. Once the glue dries, remove the nails, & you're in business. I go with Atlas because of the price and availability, but if I see a good buy on ME track I'll pick it up. ------------------ Southeast....Southwest.. Ship IT on the Frisco! Bob T. Member # 362 http://hometown.aol.com/slsf1630/myhomepage/profile.html
What is wrong with the Brass track? I use it on my strait sections, and it works OK! and I use Atlas Code 100 for the turns. ------------------ CSX and HO Scale The Newark Branch RR Ship it the good 'ole way, BY RAIL http://homestead.juno.com/huntertjo
It gets dirty faster and tends to get carbon deposits , and the electrical current isn't as good as nickel silver, besides Nickel looks alot better than brass. ------------------ TrainBoard.com MEMBER#204 Appalachian & Atlantic Model Railroad "QUALITY at WORK with SAFTEY in MIND"
The main difference is when brass corrodes, the corrosion is an insulator, but nickle silver corrosion will carry current. Brass turns sorta blue-green while silver turns a dark brownish black with age. I have mixed and matched too. Either is OK if kept clean. ------------------ Watash #982
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by watash: The main difference is when brass corrodes, the corrosion is an insulator, but nickle silver corrosion will carry current. Brass turns sorta blue-green while silver turns a dark brownish black with age. I have mixed and matched too. Either is OK if kept clean. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Not only that, but I haven't even see brass track advertised anymore, which leads me to believe that Atlas has stopped making the stuff. As for code 100, it's good stuff- don't get me wrong. Paint, ballast & a little weathering can disguise the height, and it's great for hidden staging. But, I prefer nickel silver in general, and codes 83 and 70 in particular. Just remember, it's YOUR railroad- if it works for you, go for it ------------------ Southeast....Southwest.. Ship IT on the Frisco! Bob T. Member # 362 http://hometown.aol.com/slsf1630/myhomepage/profile.html
