Changing the frame on a Proto E7

herendeen Jul 15, 2002

  1. herendeen

    herendeen E-Mail Bounces

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    Hey Group -

    I recently purchased a Proto 2000 E7. I am having FITS keeping it on the track. I started using Atlast code 83 track with a couple Shinohara curved turnouts. I then discovered that one of the curved turnouts was out of gauge, so I replaced it, and I am still having trouble. All of my curves are a min of 28".

    I have tried several different 6 axle loco's and all run smooth. Has anyone ever put an E7 body on an Athern frame? and what kind of modifications to the frame would I need to do?

    Thanks

    Ron
     
  2. dewain50

    dewain50 TrainBoard Member

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    Ron,
    Have you tried gauging the wheels or checking the flanges on the wheels? I've found both of these problems will cause six axle locos to jump track. Also check the trucks for free movement from side to side, could be binding and causing a derailment.

    Dean
     
  3. herendeen

    herendeen E-Mail Bounces

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    I checked the gauge on the wheels, but not the flange. Will do....thanks

    Ron
     
  4. watash

    watash Passed away March 7, 2010 TrainBoard Supporter In Memoriam

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    One other thing too, lay a straight edge across all three wheels (like a rail) and see if the truck "teeters" on the center wheel.

    Sometimes those center wheels will be a little high (larger in diameter too). Torque can cause the front pair of wheels to raise up off the rail which doesn't leave as much of the flange to guide around a curve. It can cause the flange to "pick" the frog point, and derail that way.

    That center wheel will do the same thing if there is a hump in your track, like going across the frog of a switch (turnout).

    The center wheels need to move up and down, or chuck them in your lathe and turn them to smaller diameter. On engines that do not have a gear on the center wheels, you can just remove them. (No one can see them anyway.)

    The other thing I found was one engine had brass wheels for pickup and plastic wheels on the other side for insulation. My track was brand new, so the rail head had sharp edges on both corners of the railhead. The soft plastic flange was shaving off on this sharp edge, and finally climbed up over the railhead.

    That's another reason I don't like today's plastic wheels. I also run a fine file down the inside of each new rail before laying track, to get rid of that sharp edge. That helped the plastic wheels some.
     
  5. locomotive2

    locomotive2 TrainBoard Member

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    One other option is to return the chassis under the lifetime warranty policy to Lifelike in Baltimore.
    I have done this for the very same reason and received a new chassis eight days later.
    Ship it priority mail-delivery confirmation for approx $4.00 and you can track it's arrival.
    Enclose a copy of your dated billl within 90 days and there's no $5.00 service charge otherwise
    you will have to pay the charge.
     
  6. herendeen

    herendeen E-Mail Bounces

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    Hey Gang as a follow to my E unit issue....

    I contacted Life-Like via e-mail and received a reply giving me the 800 number to call for support. The lady who replied stated to contact Support and they would give me the information to send the chasis back for a replacement.

    Ron
     

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