Block Wiring Help

jwaldo Feb 7, 2007

  1. jwaldo

    jwaldo TrainBoard Member

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    Hi all,

    I'm about to start laying track on my new 3x4' layout. I'll be using mostly code55 Peco electrofrog turnouts. I'm not too great at wiring, so blocks AND live frogs is sort of daunting. Here's the track plan with wiring info:

    [​IMG]

    Does that look right?

    My old layout has blocks, but they're so hopelessly useless I was forced to convert to DCC :p
     
  2. Grey One

    Grey One TrainBoard Supporter

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    You may want to post this over in the
    "DCC & Electronics A forum for DCC, computer running, signalling, animation and electronic issues."
    forum. You might get more responces
     
  3. jwaldo

    jwaldo TrainBoard Member

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    No answers? Then again, the fact that no one's jumped in saying "IT'S WRONG! IT'S WRONG! DON'T DO IT LIKE THAT!" or something like it sort of implies it will work :p
     
  4. Another ATSF Admirer

    Another ATSF Admirer TrainBoard Member

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    Let's see...
    • no reverse loops
    • common rail always on the right (clockwise)
    • gaps between any two points back-to-back (strictly only for live-frog, but doesn't hurt)
    • gaps between both loops
    So far so good...

    • I'm guessing you've gone "gap both" everywhere as a prelude to DCC?
    • Why is there one singular single-rail gap? why not gap both for consistency?
    • Watch that diamond crossing, bottom left - most makes insulate the crossing tracks, but check it with a meter to be sure
    • feeders on industry sidings, bottom right, could be moved to the centre of the siding
     
  5. TrainsNTractors

    TrainsNTractors TrainBoard Member

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    I would add gaps to the rail after all turnouts. The out side rails do not need them but the inner 2 on the "Y" end should have them. You need this with electric frogs and it is not bad if using insulated frogs. I think it is not marked this way on your drawing.
     
  6. jwaldo

    jwaldo TrainBoard Member

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    The double-gapped rails are for powered-frog turnouts, most of which seem to co-incide with block gaps. The single-gapped ones are just block isolating gaps, and the turnouts are insulated frogs. I forgot to add gap marks back on the top siding after I re-drew it :eek:.

    I'm not sure what sort of crossing I will be using, so I didn't mark it.
    I marked the feeders for the bottom sidings on the ends of the tracks so I could hide my lame soldering work under bumpers :embarassed:
     

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