Following smartly on from my fans question, how do you get the motor out of an Athearn diesel? I need to get at the bottom electric connection. The motor sits in a white plastic cradle which in turn appears to have 4 pegs that hold it onto the frame. I've tried pushing these from below, but they seem reluctant to budge. The instructions don't help and I don't want to break it, so can anyone tell me how to get this thing off? Is there a trick, or is it just a case of "push/lever really hard"?
If you have an older Athearn loco, they are real bit*hes to remove, as with age, the motor mount insert will expand and bind with the frame. I remove all of the driveshafts, wiring (replace the top brace as you might lose the motor brush on top) and parts and just work with the motor. The motor will very likely come out first, leaving the nylon motor mount in the well of the frame. I just try to work with all angles then, from the bottom then pry the sides, and so forth. When you finally get that out, it will be a little worked up, so you can just file down the problems slightly and replace. If you are using a different motor, you might recognize that the Athearn motor is knotched on the bottom to make contact with the frame; you might want to fabricate a "pig-tail" from the lead of your new motor, and bring it to a drilled hole (you have to supply the hole and screw) to restore pickup to that side. Since I have no problem with the performance of Athearn products, I tend not to replace motors unless they are burnt out. Ken "Steamguy" Willaman
There is almost nothing to be afraid of with an Athearn. The driveshafts off the flywheels are in pieces and go back together the right way. I personsally disconnect the driveshafts so they won't go flying when I pull/yank the motor out. I just hold the frame in my left hand and twist and pull the motor out with my right. There is really no need to be gentle. If you want to upgrade your motor, I would recommend a helix humper. This motors drop right back into an athearn frame using the athearn nylon plugs. The motor is isolated from the frame.
That's been my experience w/Athearn for the most part--just to take it apart then pry it out--but afterwards I've always had knarly problems getting the stubborn little rubber guys BACK in their holes. They never seem to snap back into place totally. Anybody have any strategies for that one? Derek
Okay. Brute force it will be . (Huh! Why is it hiding behind the cupboard?) Lubrication. Anything plastic/rubber I'm having trouble teasing into a small space gets licked. If that doesn't work I'll move up to oil, but then there are issues of whether the oil will attack the material. I do actually have an aerosol of special nylon lubricant - but lick seems to work better
For the reinstall, if it was me, fill the holes with lead shot and glue the motor in with silicone. This will add weight, easy to remove and run quieter.
I also have tried/used liquid dish soap to lubricate the mount pins so that they slide back into the frame more easily. Just my .02
The motorin the white plastic mount is an assembly pressed into the frame in a press, so it is easy and accurate during factory assambly. All of the above methods have worked, including using wood blocks and a "C" clamp to press the motor out squarely and slowly with little effort. It can then be used to press the repaired assembly back in place again. The usual lube is applied using a hypo that people take insulin with that is available at any drug store. DO GRIND OFF THE SHARP POINT AND STICK A SEWING NEEDLE INTO THE HOLE TO CLEAN OUT CHIPS AFTERWARD. This will allow you to gently apply a tiny amount, like 1/16th of a drop, right on a bearing, or one of these pegs. LaBelle has a Whale oil that is compatible, and you can also use cooking oil. Some detergents migrate through the pores of zamac and are thought to cause granular separation at some later date (when you least expect it.)
