Athearn F-45

barlowfaudio Oct 26, 2008

  1. barlowfaudio

    barlowfaudio TrainBoard Member

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    Here is an undec I finished painting this weekend. It's missing the front windshield glass as that was missing as well as the porthole glazing when I received the engine. Athearn is sending me the missing parts.
    Painted with Floquil acrylics. I am having some difficulty getting a good gloss base finish for decal application and hence have been fighting with some silvering. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
    It's an interesting paint scheme with all the alternating red and yellow on the steps, handrails etc.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 26, 2008
  2. TonyHammes

    TonyHammes TrainBoard Member

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    Paintjob looks great. I ahve a BN unit on order. Not sure you can do too much for the silvering. Have you tried a massive amount of solvaset. May be able to poke some small pin holes in the decals so the solvaset flows through.
     
  3. cfquinlan

    cfquinlan TrainBoard Member

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    Sorry I can't answer your question about your decal issue, but I have a question about what you did. How do you glue your windows in without the glue fogging the windows up?
     
  4. barlowfaudio

    barlowfaudio TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks Tony, I did that and it helped. I still need to find a better gloss to use for the decal application and some fresh decal solvent.

    Cf on the windows... I use Floquil clear gloss acrylic to hold the windows in place.
    I take a round toothpick and apply the gloss around the edge of the window opening then
    press in the window. The stuff is very sticky when wet and drys clear.
     
  5. HemiAdda2d

    HemiAdda2d Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Nice tip! I used Micro Kristal Kleer on my Kaslo/sar F45 kits, and that works great as well.
    As for silvering, try Microscale's Micro-Sol. Strong stuff. Dio-Sol & Solvaset are strong, too. Like already said, not much can be done for silvering. A gloss cover coat before decaling helps. As for bubbles, I have a #1 size needle for my old airbrush that got slightly bent, and no longer works for its intended mechanism. It however, is still very sharp, and readily pokes holes in decals to remove bubbles.
     
  6. barlowfaudio

    barlowfaudio TrainBoard Member

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    Yeah the Kristal Kleer works as well.
    A gloss cover coat before decaling is where I'm having issues with finding a good gloss to use. The Floquil gloss I've been using in my opinion isn't glossy enough.

    These are great engines by the way! Athearn has a winner here.

    Great Falls Montana is my home town! Steinhouse and Howards Pizza was my second home lol!
     
  7. pastoolio

    pastoolio TrainBoard Member

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    Craig, excellent paint job on that unit!:thumbs_up: Of course I'm partial to the Kodachrome scheme. And forgive my ignorance, but what is silvering?

    -Mike
     
  8. Westfalen

    Westfalen TrainBoard Member

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    I used to use Accupaint (not Accuflex, totally different) gloss as a finish to decal over, nice gloss and dry to the touch to decal over within 30 minutes, I could paint and decal a two colour paint scheme in an afternoon. If I used Accupaint as the main colour it was a good enough finish to decal straight onto. Don't know if Accupaint is still made though, haven't been able to get it in Australia for a few years now. I've tried other gloss finishes but nothing really measures up to the Accupaint.
     
  9. Mad Yank

    Mad Yank TrainBoard Member

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    Have you tried either Testors Model Master Clear Gloss Acryl or Tamiya Clear Gloss? They have both worked for friends of mine in the static model end of the hobby. Also, as a last resort, you could try either Future floor polish, full strength from the airbrush (another static modeler's secret, and one we use A LOT for airliner models!), or, and be VERY CAREFUL WITH THIS STUFF, Alclad Lacquer Clear Gloss Coat. Teh AlClad WILL give you a gloss coat, but it will EAT bare plastic if you get even a TINY puddle, and WEAR A GOOD FILTER MASK RESPIRATOR when airbrushing it!
    It's a total PitA to work with, but the results are INCREDIBLE!
    Future is a lot easier, but gives darn near as good results; only thing is, with the Furute, it's almost as "clean out the airbrush RIGHT NOW!" critical as acrylics are; if that stuff dries in the airbrush, it's time for a new airbrush, period, no questions, throw it away!
    I know; found out the Hard Way.:tb-mad:
     
  10. barlowfaudio

    barlowfaudio TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks Mike! Silvering is areas on the decal that don't bond to the paint, leaving a silverish looking area. It's really delamination of the decal to the surface. The decal film doesn't disappear into the paint like you want.

    Wesfalen and Mad yank thanks for the input. I will try some other brands for gloss on future projects. Lacquer is out of the question and the Future sounds like a PITA for sure.

    I did get a fresh bottle of Solvaset today and it did the trick with removing the silvering.
     

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