I just received my Big Boy last week, supposedly there is a working front coupler supplied, can anyone advise me where in the packaging it might be found, so far 'zilch', unless it took a hike in my excitement to open the box. Alternatively, what coupler would it be Micro-Trains? if so, 1015, 2004? Any help greatly appreciated. I noticed a strange phenomenon with the loco, under heavy load on an upgrade 16" radius curve, the engine was leaning into the curve and losing traction, to me, it seems to be something to do with the over complicated Loco/tender drawbar. Anyone else experienced this? I do intend to shorten it with a conventional design of drawbar if feasible (looking at it, it should be no problem).
I've heard from a number of folks who didn't receive a pilot coupler with their new Big Boys. Maybe Athearn left them out this time around? Check the drawbar on the tender side. You might have that "missing spring" problem. -Mark
Mark, Thanks, I did a bit of trial and error (like, read the manual) and the parts breakdown shows a Micro-Trains 1016 for the front and 1015 for the tender, the 1016 works great for the pilot. One thing that I don't quite understand, the parts breakdown states "Micro-Trains Couplers", yet the one on the tender is a coil spring on the knuckle and definitely 'not' Micro-Trains (unless they make special ones for Athearn?). If I recall, the Intermountain Cab Forwards state micro-Trains also, my two certainly are not! When I work out how to get at the drawbar, I intend shortening it, even my N Scale Workplace, Health and Safety Department can't accept the present gap.
I'm guessing that the manual was not updated between runs (despite the fact that a few things have obviously changed). Unfortunately, I don't have my 1st run Big Boy anymore and have never owned a second run at all, so just a lot of speculation on my part. -Mark
Quite possible, as it shows the double ended wiggly squigley drawbar in the diagrams, which I believe is now only on the tender end?
I checked on my Big Boys, and only the previous runs have the 1016 MTL coupler included for the pilot. My latest run ones don't have it included even though the manual says it should be included. HOWEVER, I will never couple anything on to the front of my BB since helpers in my territory are always on the rear of the train, and BB's rarely needed a helper up the Wahsatch Grade, although sometimes they'd doublehead a couple of BB's if they needed to transfer power. If I were modeling Sherman Hill, then I'd have to install the MTL's, as helpers there were on the front. Shortening the drawbars isn't a big deal, but it takes about an hour the first time. I haven't got around to shortening my new purchases yet, but all of my first and second run BB's and Challengers have shortened drawbars, which I think really enhances the way these big engines look. I've got a 24" minimum mainline radius so it's not a problem at all for me. My buddy Nate has 18" as his minimum mainline radius and shortened drawbars work okay on his also. You just gotta make sure the new hole you'll drill in the drawbar is centered as closely as possible, because there's not much "meat" on either side of it. Because of the non-prototypical double engine articulation, the rear of the engine really hangs out there on small radius curves...even moreso than the front! This is my main gripe about this otherwise lovely model. Here's a comparo between two 3985's, one with the shortened drawbar, one stock. The drawbars are the same on BB's and Challengers. Cheerio! Bob Gilmore
