I'm with ya on the fightin' words. If you were to weather the caboose would the gloppy lettering still be noticeable?
I'm not sure if you got an answer to your question or whether you are asking about the UP caboose. Your question followed my post so I'm assuming you are asking about the UP Bay Windw caboose. As far as I'm aware this bay window was one of UP's last attempts at building a caboose. While everyone else was busy buying the taller wide vision cupola cabooses this was UP's answer. Here, I will post another of the UP crummy to be sure... this is the one you are referencing. Tagging along for the ride is the UP caboose that rode the rails up until they were retired. Luckily we have a model of it. If this isn't the one you were asking about...kindly ignore. Grin!
Is someone besides me picking a fight here. I don't know you need to be mean and rotten, just awful like me. Grin! If you know me...well...another time another thread. The Athearn bay window caboose is nice. The MTL looks like the ConCor/Kato product excepting the bay window goes almost all the way up to the roof line. Not quite the same.
Finally after a tough hunt and a good wait, 3 SP bay windows were delivered today! Though this is my first real hobby purchase in about 2 years, these pieces are by far the most beautifully detailed pieces I've seen. Bravo Athearn!
Wow Mark, This is a freakin' awesome photo! Can't even tell the sky is PS'ed in. Great work on your module! :thumbs_up:
I haven't attempted that as yet John, however I will use Ca when I do since they are metal of some type.
I finally got mine today... worth every penny. I'll install the screens at some point because I am like that. Also will change out the wheels to Fox Valley. It was SP day at the club this past Sunday! There were a slew of Athearn and MT cabeese, some delivered just in time. Made for a fun day. Btw there is one brass bay-window owned by the club. (EB models, I think?) It looks just like the Athearn model.
What club do you belong to? I've been looking for a club for a while with no luck. Most of what I've found are too far out of the city for me. Is your club within the city?
The club I think he is referring to is in Point Richmond Golden State Model Railroad Museum They are a great group of guys. I would join back up if it wasn't so far for me to drive. I have personally operated on the layout about 10years ago. I need to get back up there and see the progress. Regards,
Would you use the thicker gap filler type or the thin stuff. The reason I ask is that I have a IM F3 and the metal side grills are falling off and niether zap a gap or regular zap will hold them on.
For photoetch parts like that I'd use "canopy" glue. Mainly because with CA, you run the risk of "fog" on surrounding areas, as well as the possibility of a blob of CA going somewhere you don't want it to go. Also, tacky adhesives like canopy glue have a little bit of flexibility in them, which is what you want when attaching metal parts like photoetch. When the temperature changes, metal will expand or contract; when they're attached with something rigid and brittle like CA, they will snap the bond. With something like canopy glue, the glue will give slightly, but still hold on.
Thank you very much. I will look for canopy glue and install the screens on one of my new caboose, or is it cabeese.
Well until reading the below quote I would have used the thicker CA, and have used it in this particular application. However I might have to look for some canopy glue and give it a try also. But the thicker CA works for me here in AZ.
I think he means his 3 Athearn cabooses, way better than his 4 MTL cabooses. A little disappointment struck today. Upon closer inspection, at least 1 detailed part is broken on EACH of my 3 cabooses. Two have a snapped support rod on the end that reaches up to the roof and on the third, the tiny thing sticking up on the roof is snapped off, (the smallest of the 4 roof details). For the two broken support rods, I think a dab of plastic cement might make them just like new (please let me know if this is a bad idea), however that tiny roof detail is no where to be found. I would hate to cause a fuss with Athearn over something so tiny, especially since I'm on the more relaxed side of the prototypical demand. Does anyone have an idea on how to fix that roof bit with out too much trouble? Also, for the window screens, the insert included in the box also recomends "canopy" glue.
