Advice on Bachmann turnouts?

I'm building my 28" x 75" N layout with Bachmann EZ track. I know there is better quality track out there, but I'm trying to keep this to a reasonable budget.

I got my box of track that I ordered today, and test-assembled the layout I want. I'm using the 11.25 radius curves, with two 11.25 radius turnouts. I've got alot of derailing going on with my Bachmann diesel loco as it goes through the turnouts, worse when running in one direction than the other. I haven't done much to rectify so far, figuring I'd ask for advice before digging in.

I do have the track sections leading into and away from the turnouts connected correctly (perfectly smooth when I run my fingers over the top and sides of the rails). Seems like the plastic 'frog' may be a little high, which I figure I can smooth down with a file. I also think there's a little instability right now, since the track isn't glued down yet, just sitting on foam board. I also bought one of the N scale track/truck gauges, and plan to work through that process as well to see if I can spot anything.

Any other tips or tricks I should try? Thanks!

 

I have a lot of EZ track and I didn’t see anything wrong with it and in fact I liked it. The only reason that I swayed from using it was the cost of the turnouts. Now I learned that I can use the EZ track with the Kato turnouts which are a little more reasonable.

 

They take a little tuning but can be fairly reliable. To start with, they don't have a plastic frog. The frog is the point where left rail crossed the right (or vise versa). The Bachmann turnouts have a powered metal frog that changes polarity as you throw the switch to avoid short circuits. They are also power routing which is an easy way to build a quick yard without blocks.

The best thing to do to them requires a good set of duckbill or flat jaw jewlers pliers. You need to twist the top of the point rail toward it's appropriate rail.

Should be this: Point rail ---> / | <--- Main rail

They come like this: Point Rail ---> | | <--- Main rail

Also file a small 45 deg bevel on the top edge of the point rail.

 

The Bachmann track is just fine. I used it for many years for a test loop and never had any issues with it. I ran test pulling 60 cars around the loop and never had any problems related to the track.

It would not be my choice for a layout just because of the very limited options and I don't like roadbed track for a layout anyhow.

 

I would also check to see if the wheels are in gauge on your equipment. I have a bachmann A+B+B set of F7's bought new. All the wheels were out of gauge, and out of alignment. Same thing with some of their passenger cars

 

Unitrak guy that likes EZtrak too

After many years and many layouts, my current layout is all Kato Unitrak, simply because it is so darn reliable and I never have any unscheduled uncouples or derails due to the track. I am partially disabled and getting up to adjust my layout was becoming not only convenient but involved elements of pain.

But before going to Unitrak, I purchased a bushel basket of EZtrak at a swap meet, thinking it was going to be like other Bachmann mainstream products. After making a few mini-layouts for curiosity, the track and switches proved very reliable.

Back then I somehow got involved in demo'ing N scale at hobby meets, swap meets, and even a few outdoor fairs. I built two 2x4 layouts all EZtrak with switches, and my trains would run literally for hours even in the outdoors with high reliability despite occasional rough handling transporting, setting up, and taking down, and still like the old proverbial Timex watch. Now that EZ trak is years old, I gave it all to a close friend for his layout and again still reliable, but told me the switches occasionally derail his trains.

Tomorrow I was going to his house to trouble shoot and remedy any problems, so thanks a bunch for the incredible timing and good advice. I am sure that any problems are due to wear and tear and need a little adjustment, that's all. This track is one of the products which changed my opinion of Bachmann/Spectrum from previous years, which was ultimately punctuated by their Consolidation and Mountains.

Hang in there, it is an easy fix, I am sure, as the product for me has worked spectacularly for years.

Ken "FloridaBoy" Willamanrolleyes:

 

Thanks, everyone! FYI, my MGB has only experienced one electrical issue in the 4 years I've owned it - and that was quickly traced back to a faulty ground strap. Every spring I spend a couple of hours cleaning every connection w/ wd-40 and adding a little dielectric grease...I also added a couple of relays in the front harness.

 

You only had 1?!

If thats the case, I'm pretty sure mine had the rest of yours for you!... you're welcome, by the way :-D

As far as the original post, the advice about filing it down is pretty much spot on. For the people who think that kato unitrack is perfect, get a #4 switch and try to run some long locos through the curved side without tweaking it... they all need just a little love. Personally I prefer kato for track planning purposes just for the variety, but flex/handlaid turnouts for the layout.

Could you post some pictures of what you're doing with your layout? (I dunno about everybody else here, but if there aren't pictures, it didn't happen!)

 

Bending and filing the tips of the points is true from my experience, which is with Peco switches. It was never the height of the frogs, neither metal (C55) or plastic (C80 insulfrog), nor "longs, mediums, or shorts." Altogether, 24 switches.

What was the hardest to solve, hardest to find issue was deformation of the switch body. Found a few that were bowed up and these needed some "friendly coercion" to get flat. Saw before installation but gave it no thought until "ooopsy."

After getting serious about best possible trackage, still some problems. These seem to be loco specific; my solution is to shave shells where needed to reliably clear the points. Locos that sin are some recent acquisitions of various Kato SD70's, again, not all, not every time.

Lastly, I needed to redo the roadbed for a few switches for flatness of the in/out tracks-switch assemblage for about 6" each way (I'm N-scale.)

So, good luck, the good tips offered helps us all.