Nice additions John. Here's a suggestion you just *gotta* do. Those welders need a flickering arc strike. You look into the roundhouse and you see arcing going on where the works are welding on the frame.
For everyone that has been following this thread and been so impressed with the detail, you really need to check out John's railimages album. His entire layout is just as awesome! Nelson
Chris, Ken, Pete, and Nelson, Thanks, it's a fun project and sharing it makes it even more enjoyable. I have been adding a lot more detail and will have some photos to post over the weekend but have found something that I wanted to share now. I have wanted to add some vises but having built one a long time ago for my blacksmith shop I was not looking forward to doing a number of them for the RH. The vise above was made out of solder and brass and has six pieces in it. I came across something that I think is going to work out. I had a HO monkey wrench which I cut the handle off of and added a brass bar in front for the vise handle. I wish I had taken a picture of the vise before putting it on the bench as it is very hard to photograph but I'm hoping you can make it out. Next time I am at Caboose Hobbies I am going to look for more HO and O wrenches. The HO one is almost too small.
Thanks Phil, I was not too happy with the photo above because it did not show the vise very well. I picked up a few more HO vises, but I could not find any O scale ones so for now all my vises will be small ones The two photos below show how the vises are made.
I simply cannot imagine working in N scale, in that amount of detail.. John, you are a master detailer!! Unreal!
The office is about done unless I can think of anything to add so here are a few pics of it. The Atlas roof was flat across the top. I wanted mine to slope toward the back so I took one of the extra pieces that you end up with when you combine more than one kit. I used this extra piece to add a few courses to the top of the sides. A new roof was made from a piece of styrene. The supporting timbers for the roof are projecting out. The back shows the top of the roof with the roofing same as the the front. The steps that came with the kit was not used because when the building is placed in the layout there is a area "cut out" and the foundation will be below ground level. When the roof is removed you can see the top of the ceiling with the conduit for the wiring. When the ceiling is removed you can see the cabinets along the inside wall. There is a little steam engine on top of one of the cabinets. Looking into the office. You can see the roof timbers and the "attic". With the ceiling removed you can get a better view. I made a typewritter stand and a typewritter. The man sitting down is on the phone which is made out of plastic. Another shot of the man on phone. It's hard to get photos even when the top and sides come off. [ April 15, 2005, 12:50 PM: Message edited by: J WIDMAR ]
OK, now you're just showing off. I really like it though. How about a lunch pale with some sandwiches inside Eric
Did you see the working N Scale lamps at ngineering.com? Smallest things I've ever seen! Tony Burzio San Diego, CA
Eric, I'd probably eat the sandwiches. Tony, I have tried some diferent lighting methods in the past but fiber optics don't work for me because you can't bend them at right angles which I would have to do to make them look like conduit and all the bulbs are too large to be scale. These new small lamps might have some promise, I will have to check them out to see what they are powered with and how bulky the wiring is behind the wall. What I have been doing for lights is using flourescent paints for headlights and tail lights in cars and neon signs or small bulbs.It does not have the same effect as a real light but when used through out the layout gives a nice look, at least for me.
I took a break from detailing the interior to get the roof out of the way. The roof is a tedious job and I want to get it finished. The original sections are too short and too wide. First I trimmed a section to the proper width, keeping the back section against the back wall. Using the hole punch I made what I believe they call "biscuits" in wood working. These are used to strengthen the piece added to the front of the roof and to tie together three sections of roof. The extension on the front of the roof. A cut off disc is used to make a slot between the two pieces so the biscuit can tie them togther. The ribs on top of the roof are scraped off so I can apply the same roofing as I did on the lower front roof. This way the addition is also blended in. Two sections of roof are joined with temporary braces super glued on the top. This way you can postion the roof exactly where you want it on top of the building. After the biscuits are put in the braces are removed with acetone. The top will be covered wtih roofing paper so the old glue marks will not show. Here are the three sections together with the biscuits. I am making the roof so that it will have three parts one part over three stalls with the center section laying on top of the two end sections. Some putty was used to fill in any areas that needed it. The under-side of the roof was given some detail although it will not usually be seen. I roughed up the bottom, scribed planking, and then sprayed it with a light tan color. After dry I stained this and then let dry and then lightly sprayed some flat black for wheatering and then dull coat.
Absolutely first-rate work! I just love to show this thread to H0 and 0 types, and it just keeps getting better and better. Also, a million thanks for showing us the components and the "how to". Al
John, Your modeling is outstanding! Having worked with steam locomotives in different locations, I would feel right at home walking around in that roundhouse! It is threads like this that inspire other modelers to take N Scale to higher levels, and as your thread shows, N Scale can achieve the same levels of detailing the larger scales can......with all the benefits the larger scales do not have. Thanks again for all the photos! PS How about some racks with tubing on them for the Superheaters?
That isn't a fiber optic light, but an LED. The curve was only there because it looked right. Check out Lincoln's ear! Tony Burzio San Diego, CA
Thanks again guys, there is still more to do, so I'll be posting more soon. JD, The racks are a great idea, what would a good diameter(s) be for the pipe? Tony, I understand that these are LEDs. My second paragraph; " These new small lamps might have some promise, I will have to check them out to see what they are powered with and how bulky the wiring is behind the wall. " My big concern is the wiring needed to run to these LEDs. If I light up one light, do I try to light all the interior lights, and if so how much wiring would be needed to do that? LEDs also need a resistor, where would they be placed? These are the kind of questions I would need to work out before I would use them. When you detail the interior you lose any space that could be used to hide these items. I am going to check them out. Thanks for the photos.
