Does anyone out there know where I can get an AZL GP38-2 fixed? I think it just needs a good inside cleaning. I don't mind shipping it to someone who can get it running smoothly. Many Thanks.
If it's an older chassis, they have a tendency to start "crumbling", get a hold of Robb Kluz with AZL, they have an exchange program for newer chassis. They may be able to do repairs as well.
To be honest, I don't know of any Z Scale loco repair service. I have had several train buddies work on some of my locos with varying degrees of success, but sometimes things go south. I sent 3 F7 locos and 3 DCC decoders to a guy who offered to put DCC in them, add wheel wipers, and get be an ABA set of F7's running good, but he emailed me a month later saying he did not like those DCC decoders, so I sent him 3 more decoders that he did like to use, and then several years later I heard he had died. I never seen those locos or decoders again. The best advice I could give is just buy a new GP38-2 from AZL Direct for $99 and swap the shell. It's probably the cheapest and most reliable way to go.
Scott at Helmut's Hobby is very good and reliable. I have used his services in the past. He will be in Springfield, Ma this coming weekend. Jim
Not to knock his service at all, as I am sure he could repair the loco, BUT, do you think he could repair a GP38-2 for under $100? The reason I ask, is I myself would not bother to spend a couple hours fiddling with something if there was a risk that the frame is crumbling, a gear is missing a couple teeth, or the motor is burnt out when I AM sure I can buy a whole brand new updated locomotive for $100, and swap the shell and be up and running in less than 5 minutes. Now if it was a $200 or higher locomotive, repair is in order, but there has to be a threshold of economy that renders spare parts or parts that can be used for detailing a locomotive repair shop or yard. Bang for the buck, what do you say?
Great point. It’s scary to try to take locomotives apart yourself but you learn and eventually you get confident. That said I’ve killed a few locos. But I saved a lot more
For $15 or so, and if already willing to pull the shell off, you might want to spray clean the chassis (assuming the gray chassis has no cracks or crumbles in it) before you send it out for repair. Get De0xit 5 electronic spray cleaner (electric guitarists spray it on their instruments to clean electrical contacts - its safe for plastics) i bought a used Gp38 off the bay, it looked like there were no gears in the trucks, so much black stuff on them it filled up all the tooth gaps! So i sprayed the trucks from the bottom, and with the shell off i put the cleaner can straw over the gap in the top of the chassis where the worm gears are loccated and sprayed down, watched the black stuff run down and out. When finished it looked like a new engine inside, and ran like one. one day i may find a modern can drive loco that needs lube.....but most times i find a new modern can drive loco that has been 'lubed' soo much that the lube has turned to goo that has attracted all the dust, fibers and cat hair on the tracks and thereby rendered a perfectly running locomotive hopelessly fouled; lubing a can drive with those plastic self-lubricating gears is kinda like adding hardened oil syndrome to locos that would have never had it otherwise. https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-D...ocphy=9011859&hvtargid=pla-382003658380&psc=1
Second that (Rob & Sumgai) Rob: you know Matt but you don’t Matt! Every show, spends HOURs twiddling with the 38. His Job was that, find the failure and reason for. Usually the 2nd day, I drop a new chassis on the table. (Thanks Ztrack). It’s worth the $40 $60 $80! After every show, it gets packed up and waits the next show (LONG months/Year) for him start all over again! I use the same DeoxIt on the truck and frame contacts. MG Chemicals “Super Wash” for many new WELL over greased chassis and older chassis overhauls. Pop the shell and spray it all (outdoors) then warm air dry.
Does anyone know why the "nut" side of the chassis crumbles apart? I have 2 and the first is in pieces and the second is breaking apart. Strange it's the chassis side that holds the nut that holds the chassis together. The other side that holds the screw seems to be ok on both chassis.
This is due to a slightly different alloy used one one side of the chassis versus the other. AZL offers replacement chassis for those with this problem. The new chassis even includes the motor and trucks. so you get a whole new loco.. except the shell. You can find out more and order your replacement at the link below. We do require the degraded chassis to be returned. https://www.azldirect.com/parts Rob
Can I keep the trucks and motor, and just return the crumbled frame? The first gen GP38 has a superior motor than you can get in the newer locos, and would be a fair exchange for our grief and expense!
So the crumbling frame is caused by contamination reacting in the casting material. It's possible the injection material hopper on the "Nut" side tool was contaminated and the other side done on the other tool was not contaminated? Maybe?
Rob, Do you want the entire chassis back (cast metal halves with trucks, motor, worm gear assemblies and lighting boards) or just the two cast metal halves? I only ask cause Robert brought it up about the trucks and motor. Are the motors I have better or more reliable than the newer motors? I didn't intend for my initial question to dive this deep but it's good to know the small quirky things. Thanks!
