Okay, I've tried installing Z scale 905's in locomotives, but the draft gear is too long. Even after filing down the back of them, the trucks still interfere with the draft gear. I've tried "kitbashing" Z scale couplers into N scale 1015 coupler boxes by cutting the z scale coupler "loops" in half and gluing a small ring to that. But it just doesn't work as good as an assembled coupler. I was told that I could cut the part of the trucks just before the gears, but I don't know how to cut them without damaging the gears and functions of the trucks. Anyone willing to do a photo tutorial or something? Your help is needed and appreciated. Steve W.
Steve, I've done this 2 ways. One is to file down the back side of the 905 box a bit and file down the plastic on the front side of the trucks. They will be close, but they won't touch cause the trucks won't turn too much.... unless you are running real tight curves. I've had no problems down to 15" radius. The other way is to cut out some of the plastic on the ends of the trucks. Pop the side frames off and cut the ends till they are even with the opening for the gear. Then take a file or a cut off disk and cut the rest of the truck down. The last thing I do is use the lid of either a 1015 or the Accumate and put that on top, then the 905, then one of the small shims that come with the 1015's. This combo fills up the hole pretty good and gets the coupler to around the right height. Here is some pics of a Kato SD45, hopefully they'll help you out. Mike
Thanks for the pics Mike. I'll give it a try on my next project, or go back and do that on my SD45B's.
How do the Z's go performance wise? Any problems with 50 car trains on grade? I'm on the fence at the moment....
Mike, watch out! There's a drill about to attack your SD45! ^ James, I've seen no really difference performance wise. Although I'm sticking to mostly using them on locos. My theory is that every one looks at the locos carefully, and tend to loose interest in the rest fo the train, so I don't worry if the rolling stock is all 1015s.
I've been using MT Z Scale #905 couplers on my steam loco's and diesels for many years now. They look and perform flawlessly. An 0-8-0 on the upper level of the "original" JJJ&E.
Ahh!!! Dang those drills! Always gotta keep an eye out for them. Like Bob, I've had excellent results with all the ones I've installed. I only install them on my locomotives, but I've had 6 locos and 50 cars lashed together pulling up my 2.2% helix with no problems. They do strain a little bit, but no popping loose or any unwanted uncouplings. Give it a try guys, you'll like how much better they make your loco's look Mike
I've had no real problems with Z scale couplers. They do have to be installed more precisely than N scale couplers. I would guess Z scale couplers are about 85% of the strength of their N scale counterparts. On my ruling grade (about 2.75% around a 24-inch radius curve, I can get about 50 cars up with Z scale couplers on the tail of the locos and the head of the cars; with N scale couplers it's about 60.
I'm slooowly converting to 905's and usually run a mix of them and regular N scale couplers and can't really tell the difference operationally. As I've mentioned before we need MTL to do a 'Z' size coupler in a 1015 coupler box, I'd buy them in bulk packs.
Mike, what size cut-off disk did you use? Even by removing the sideframes, the space between the wheels is still narrow. Do you need to remove the wheels too? Sorry, I've never actually taken a locomotive's trucks apart before.
I just test fited 905s on a GP9 they length seems to be to shot with the sunrise SP pass. pilots on. But no issue with truck clearances. I'll post pics later.
Where should the 905s line up on a MTL coupler height gauge? My test fit lines up with the top of the couplers at the same height. Is this correct?
Nick, you should get the 905 to be centered in the middle of a 1015, ect. That way it won't slip up or down and come uncoupled. Sounds like you'll have to shim it. Mike
Steve, you can use a normal cutting disk, any size, or you can use one of those cylinder shaped sanding wheels, they both will do the same thing. Alternatively, you can use a small hack saw or even some side cut pliers. I've tried them all different ways, but I found the cut off disk is the easiest. Any yes, you need to take some of the trucks apart. Use your thumbs to hold the wheels, and take your index fingers and push down on the side frames. This will pop one side. You can then take a small flat head screwdriver or use your fingers again to pop the other side free. This will get the bottom cover and side frames off. The brass contact strips will then fall off also. On certain trucks, you'll need to watch which brass contact goes on which side, since they are directional. Once you have the side frames off, then just pop out the wheel closest to the side you need to cut and you'll be good to go Yeah, they work in Tunnel Motors just as well as Atlas or Kato's. You'll need to use some shims like I talked about earlier and you'll also need to cut back the trucks, since the 905's hit. Sorry, I don't have any pics, but it's the same process as what I posted with the SD45. Good Luck! Mike
If you make this cut after they're assembled, make sure your glue points on the front are strong.. trust me, I know this :tb-ooh::tb-biggrin:
I bumped this thread because I've been thinking about trying this on my locos--any other tips anyone can share to add to this thread? Jeff C
