Z on N coupler question

I have noticed that some of you use MT Z scale couplers on some of your engines.

My questions;
(1) Why?
(2) How do they work with the N scale couplers on your rolling stock, are do you need a cheater with one couple on one end and the other on the other end?

Thanks

MOPHEAD
"Keep on modeling MoPac"

 

Ditto Russ's points. I've also had problems between diesels if they weren't closely speed-matched.

 

Same here. After I go to the extent of grab irons, finer handrails, MU hoses, etc., the 1015 couplers really stick out, as you can see in the comparison (Z/905s on the left, N/1015s on the right):



As far as operation, others have found that they aren't strong enough for long trains, some people reporting problems with trains as small as 25 cars. I myself do not have the layout for such trains, so the Z/Nn3 couplers perform well with the regular couplers, even with uncoupling magnets and delayed uncoupling.

---jps

 

I had a terrible time with long trains. I had the most problems with Z coupler to Z coupler mating. 1 would ride up over the other, Even if the coupler heads were prfectly level. I was trying to run 70 car trains though. The smaller couplers sure look good, and gave me the close coupling between locomotives I was looking for, but in my case, just to unreliable.

 

I would suggest using the Z couplers on the lead unit of "set" trains, if get my drift...

That is, say you're running a passenger train. Install the Z couplers on the nose of the lead unit that regularly heads up the train. Then again passenger trains usually aren't that long as to cause problems. Z couplers might work well to create the close-coupling look many desire.

Your regular locomotives may switch around or be used either way. As stated earlier, if you're not running long trains the Z couplers may be ok on the locos. I'd use the N scale ones on rolling stock, though.

The other problem will be with operations and magnetic uncoupling. The gladhand (MU cable, or whatever you call the metal hook) won't be as close to the magnet on an N scale unit, so it may not function as well. (Or you may need stronger magnets).

Finally, if you're doing up a locomotive or piece of rolling stock for a (NMRA-type) contest, you definitely want to install Z scale couplers, even if just for the contest. That should help score a couple (no pun intended) of extra points!

Adam

 

Wow, Shooter! That GP30 high-nose is awesome! Is that by chance going to be sporting Southern black? Looks like you used .005" wire for the handrails. Looks a little thin in the photos but I guess it will be thicker and stand out more once painted. I've fallen in love with GP30s for obvious reasons - the look. And I'm not sure but I think Southern and N&W (maybe Nickel Plate as well) were the only ones to run the high-nose variant... but I could be wrong.

Great work!
Adam

 

Well, here's a little article I did for another n-scale site I belong to:

http://www.mynscale.com/Article.aspx?ArticleID=16

Hope it helps answer your questions. :shade:

 

I have been body mounting Z scale couplers to my cars and engines. I was unsure how this was all going to work. But I recently ran a 25 car coal train with two autoracks on the end at the local Ntrack club. Everything performed well. No uncoupling and no derailments. I am very happy that I decided from the start to use the 905s.

 

I have been using them with undecorateds that arrive without wheels or couplers.
I use them to replace Rapidos and when needed to replace MT or Accumates. Then work fine with rare earth magnets and are a lot easier to install in the nose of a steam engine.

 

in case you were wondering, the Z couplers need no trip pin adjustment for magnetic uncoupling unless they happen to come out of whack out of the package (rare). Works great Z coupler to Z coupler and N to Z. I use standard Kato uncoupling magnets without problems -- Accumutts are a different story.

I've only seen problems on longer trains getting up to about 50 cars. The weight exceeds the strength of coupler material (they flex open but don't usually break). But well-matched helpers (DCC) should help with that. coasterp's experience is encouraging since some NTRAK clubs discourage Z coupler use outright.

Now if only we can get a reverse draft Z coupler, any problems due to rougher trackage would be minimized. Or how about Z tightlock couplers (types F and H used for tank cars, etc.)?

 

So the rare earth magnets have the power to make them work, even with the pins being higher up? Cool.

Adam

 

I have no problems from Z scale couplers. If they are bouncing up and down, coming un-coupled. I'd bet the track work isn't level and smooth.

 

Adam-

On code 80 and snapped in where the rail ends meet, yes.

 

I use MT Z scale couplers all the time on my steam loco's, some diesels and rolling stock.

They look more prototypical than N scale couplers which are oversized and they do mate well with all N scale couplers.

I've had no trouble with Z scale couplers with trains that are 25 cars or more in length.

The Z scale couplers look particularly good on the front pilots of steam loco's.

Stay cool and run steam.....

 

Heres a little trick I learned and the reason I use the Z scale couplers. You don't need a between the track magnet to uncouple them. Many of them will uncouple when you place a magnet a track side. I use the 1/2" dia. disk magnets you can buy at most craft stores. I also turn the trip pin so that it's angled out a little more. All of this allows me to uncouple anywhere I want. As for getting them to go over rough track, I created a rough spot on my test track and pushed and pulled two AC4400s through the spot. There was no uncoupling or derailment. They appear to be more robust than many think.

 

I was concerned about that too, but in my experience, I've actually found that with my under-track permanent magnets (the Kadee version), the Z/Nn3 couplers respond more consistently and smoothly than the N scale couplers (with no change in the metal hook's height). And with the higher height of those hooks, there is less risk of them catching on a rail or grade crossing and causing problems. Of course, other's results may vary.

Thank you, and yes, it is a Southern unit.

I actually used .006" wire for the handrails and grab irons on the GP30 (the build can be seen here) and another engine. While the white portions of the handrails do appear to be thick enough, the rest still looks a little too thin for me too. I've settled on using .006" wire for the grab irons (and .007" BLMA grabs now too), and .008" wire for the handrails, like on my GP38 below:



---jps

 

At least with the MT n-scale couplers the trip pin height can be adjusted ... AccuMates? NOT!! :thumbs_down: And the coupler that causes the most derailments when running? Accumates. :angry: :angry:

 

Thanks everyone;

I think Z scale couplers is the way to go.

 

Coasterp-

Aren't the 1/2" magnets pretty big for N?

I am open to all suggestions to make the Lessons Learned Line easier and more enjoyable to operate.