Here's what I may do. 1/2 inch plywood, topped by homosote. For the mainline I would top the homosote with cork. I've read where some like to nail their track and rb and some like to glue. I'd like to hear what worked and didn't for you and any tips and tricks you may have. Thanks!
I use half inch plywood with half inch blueboard glued on with Liquid Nails for Projects then cork roadbed glued to that with plain ol Elmer's white glue.Nothing fancy but it has worked for 6 layouts over the last 22 years. <marquee> N SCALE RULES </marquee> ------------------ Catt!#118 - Moderator and A freelancer to the end http://members.fortunecity.com/boylerwerx/
Moose. I just joined Trainboard so can now put in my 2 cents worth. I agree with catt. I just run a thin bead of white glue and anchor the rails with push pins throught the holes in the ties. Make sure it is completely dry before pulling the pins out. Also I have found that it is easy to lift up the rails by easing a wood chisel between the ties and cork. This doesn't damage the rails or cork if you are careful Dick
I use the 1/2" plywood and 1/2" homasote but I lay my own track. I don't think I would use homasote if I was using cork roadbed and flextrack. It is rather expensive and messy to work with. If you do use homasote, be aware that it is not perfectly flat. The edges of the 4 x 8 sheets tend to be a little thinner than the rest of the sheet. At joints I alway use joint compound, feathering it out a ways and then sanding it smooth. If you don't do this you will end up with dips and bumps. Always stagger the ends of the plywood and homasote. Failure to do this can cause flexing at the joints. When glueing the homasote to the plywood, apply a thin layer of glue to both the homasote and the plywood. Use a paint brush to spread it around. Have lots of clamps and use 1 x 2's between the clamps and the homasote. If you don't clamp it well it will tend to have voids in it. I learned these things through mistakes. Hope this helps you avoid the same mistakes.
Well, for the last three layouts it has been cork roadbed directly over 1/2" plywood, glued and nailed. Since my new layout uses foam as the base, I am planning on gluing roadbed directly to the foam (less weight). I will use cork for the mainline, and am experimenting with the rubberized stuff on the branch lines... Happy Modeling!! John ------------------ The Santa Fe and Southwestern, Chief of the Southwest!!
Two answers here really. On the NEB&W, our club layout, we used 3/4" ply and 1/2" homasoate (at a minimum, I have seen 3/4", 3/4", 1/2" at points), then handlaid ties and track (HO scale). At home (N scale) I have 3/8" ply and 1/2" homasoate, with cork for the mains only. A good base (benchwork) is very important if you are using heavier materials. ------------------ Corey Lynch Pres - Rensselaer Model RR Society, NEB&W RR http://www.rpi.edu/~lynchc/Railfanning/railfanning.htm - My Site http://www.union.rpi.edu/railroad/ - NEB&W
For N-Scale, I'd use no less than 1/2" plywood base. For the actual roadbed I use cork glued to the plywood. Track is a different matter. I pre-drill pilot holes for my track and use Atlas or an equal brand of track nail to hold the track in place, NO GLUE. Then, I weather the ties and rail and let it dry. Next step, ballast! Use whatever ballasting technique you like and again, let it dry! After a few days, I remove the track nails, except for the ones nearest any joints. The ballast and the glue in the ballast, holds the track in place. If you put glue on top of glue, your ballast changes to concrete and changes are harder to make down the line. But, that's the way I do it. Doesn't make it the only way... ------------------ Brent Tidaback, Member #234 BNSF Railfan-to-the Max and a N-Scaler to boot! Ship it on the Route of The Roadrunners! The Aransas Odessa & Western, a division of the BNSF
One experience with homosote was enough for me. Sure difficult to work with. I use a 1/2 inch ply base, then 1/2 inch foam insulation, which is sold at any lumber dealer and is very much cheaper than homosote. Next I add cork roadbed on top of that. The foam is easy but messy to work with but it is easier to create interesting differences in levels for culverts etc. Like Brent, the track is held in place with pins and then ballast is added. Once ballast dries, the pins come out. I am very happy with the result but whatever does it best for you is the way to go ------------------ Robin member #35 Maberly and Tayside
AMI imstant roadbed. it is really better than what some think. ------------------ TrainBoard.com MEMBER #204 Appalachian & Atlantic Model Railroad "QUALITY at WORK with SAFTEY in MIND"
can I ask why people pin it down, then remove the pins? ------------------ CK& Bird Butt Railroad - Its a coal mining region of a place far far away, that shares rails with SP, NS... Era: Time stands still round these parts, and we have everything from Steam, to Diesels...
I have always used 1/2" chipboard and 1/2" insulation board. The insulation board is very easy to cut with a craft knife, and track pins go in easy. After ballasting, I remove all track pins. Merry Christmas all and a happy New Year
Bird...I think the pins are used somply to hold in place until the balast glue dries. I have a related question: I am planning on gluing cork directly to the foam board modules. Is there a problem in doing this?? Should I use some type of sub-roadbed under the cork and above the foam board?? Happy Modeling!! John ------------------ The Santa Fe and Southwestern, Chief of the Southwest!!
John, I use yellow carpenters glue and glue the cork right onto the foam. Nothing else needed. You could use a board under the cork if you want to really shape the roadbed. Personal preferences come into play here ------------------ Robin member #35 Maberly and Tayside
JCater, I've built a few modules and for me Liquid Nails "For Projects" has worked best for me.What I do is use "N" scale cork and cement it down with the Liquid Nails and hold with long pins till dry enough to remove,then I again use Liquid Nails to glue the track down (HO flex) on top of the roadbed.All of this takes place on extruded styrofoam (pink or blue,makes no diff). I want to make it clear that this Liquid Nails for Projects and not ordinary Liquid Nails (sold right next to each other usually).And before I forget,of course I go back and ballast afterwards. Hope this helps, Gene Jackson ------------------ The difference between comedy and tragedy is a fine line...if it happens to you,then it's comedy;but,if it happens to me,well then it's a tragedy!
Well my present layout uses the traditional 1/2 inch plywood and 1/2 inch Homasote. Next layout will be solid 4" extruded foam ( and not a single peice of wood !) with the Woodland Secinics foam roadbed glued in place. I have also used Foam core boards as roadbed on some of the newer parts of my present layout--real easy and lite . A tip for cutting homasote WITHOUT any mess. Use a utility knife!!! You can get utility knife type blades to fit youre saber saw too.!! Mike
Excellent ideas guys !! I have used Liquid Nails to model water, but not as a gluing agent before !! I do think I need something under my mainlines to raise them up a bit...any light weight suggestions?? Happy Modeling!! John ------------------ The Santa Fe and Southwestern, Chief of the Southwest!!
I am using liquid nails to put woodland scenics foam down and to put track to it. I spread in a thin even film and let it set for about five to ten minutes depending on how it setting up and then just weight the track down till dry. This is working really well and can be removed and reused (track & foam both). I think the rolls would be better than the 2' pieces but it helps to prebend curves stretching almost to the breaking point.
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by moose: Here's what I may do. 1/2 inch plywood, topped by homosote. For the mainline I would top the homosote with cork. I've read where some like to nail their track and rb and some like to glue. I'd like to hear what worked and didn't for you and any tips and tricks you may have. Thanks! <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> For my own layout, I've used 1/2" plywood topped with 1/2" thick insulboard. This stuff is almost the same as homasote, but it seems to handle water much better. I haven't had a lick of trouble yet, and it has been over a year now since I layed the insulboard. I've posted a comment on the Administrative Page, if you want to check it out, I explain a little better how this stuff handles moisture. I think you'll be surprised. Danny MacNevin
On my present railroad I'm using 1/2" chipboard (made by Louisiana-Pacific in nearby Olathe ), and cork roadbed on top of that. I would consider using Homasote on the plywood to hold down the train noise, but it's just too expensive to me at this point (and I'm building on a budget). Interesting we haven't heard about layouts built with slabs of foamboard in this forum.. has anybody done one? ------------------ Southeast....Southwest.. Ship IT on the Frisco! Bob T. Member # 362 http://hometown.aol.com/slsf1630/myhomepage/profile.html [This message has been edited by friscobob (edited 01 January 2001).]
