Meh, I've looked at a gazillion soldering stations today and all have not so good ratings on fakespot, even the $115 Weller. I'm just gonna keep what I have and tighten the nut that holds the tip with a wrench.
Can you tighten it and make it stay with some variety of Locktight? Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
Loctite thread locker debonds with heat so that won't work. Maybe they have a version that is unaffected by heat.
The nut holds a shaft that holds the tip and is supposed to pull the tip snug against the element, The hollow inside of the tip fits over the element, but won't slide any further, it bottoms out on the inner shaft that holds the element, doesn't slide over it. It doesn't feel like the end of the element touches the tip. I'm not sure if I can pull on the element without breaking it. I remember reviews on this thing not heating properly, but I needed more precise heat settings, so I gambled. I have a Weller standard pen type that uses the screw to hold the tip. More reliable but no heat adjustment.
I went further and took the iron apart. The element and spring are soldered to a circuit board that has tabs. The tabs fit inside slots in the handle. I think the problem is the slots don't stop the board before the spring slips inside the handle slightly when you tighten the plastic nut. Obviously, it's not so much a problem that too much heat gets into the plastic, no signs of melting, but it keeps the element from seating properly in the tip.. evident by the discoloring on the element. I took a picture of the tip beside the element, where it should normally seat. The difference in the length of the discoloration and the tip base is about the distance the circuit board travels before seating in the handle. I think I can make it work, just need to figure out how. I could possibly measure and cut the steel sleeve attached to the plastic nut to allow more travel, or maybe glue pieces of styrene in the slots of the handle to stop the board from going too far. It makes sense that user reviews mention not enough heat to the tip, having to crank it up to melt solder. The element isn't snug inside the tip, so it's basically just heating up the tip's metal base.
I have a similar, if not the same, soldering iron. The heating element doesn't have to touch the end of the tip. The heat conduction is from the sides of the heating element. The surrounding metal will bring the heat to the tip. As a matter of fact, the tip of my heating element broke off from the many tip changes. It's ceramic so it's fragile. Still works fine. Heat regulation is fine on my unit. I have a Hakko new in a box that I won in a contest. I thought it would replace this cheap unit (bought it for $25) but it's still in the box.
Spending a lot on an iron if you are soldering for a living is probably a good idea but for most of us what we need to work on is our technique. A simple... ... inexpensive iron like the two above will do about anything you need to do in this hobby. I've soldered the three projects above along with others since the beginning of the year with the inexpensive irons in the first image. I leave the iron on the hottest setting (even for those really tiny SMD parts) and work on getting on and off the solder joint from less than a second to a few seconds. You need to be able to see the joint you are soldering and as soon as the solder flows usually get off of it. If you have used a lot of flux you need to make sure it has been hot enough to get rid of it also. Use flux but sparingly. I use a drop of flux on every solder joint and ..... .... wipe the tip on a sponge or in tip cleaner every solder joint. I'll pre-tin joints like the really small stuff and solder the components in those cases with just a small drop of solder on the iron and a touch and dab to the solder joint. Work on technique....you need it regardless of how much or how good the iron is. You get it by soldering a lot and excepting mistakes and fixing them. More info ( HERE ). Sumner
Thanks for the feedback. Mine is a Merece. I like the functionality of the unit, heats in an instant, lowers temp to 200° when set in it's holder, has an auto standby mode when inactive for awhile... but the heat isn't consistent. Lead-free solder is harder to melt. I used 80/20 rosin core with it when I wired my Stratocaster, but haven't used it since. Several times I had to crank it over 700° to get solder to flow and constantly had to tighten the nut with a cloth or thick glove. Hakko was one I looked at yesterday. Decent looking unit, has 4.8 out of 5 stars on Amazon but when I checked the link on Fakespot the reviews dropped to 3.5 stars. Maybe Fakespot isn't as accurate, anymore, idk, but I like the Hakko better than the Weller unit, both are $115. I just can't figure out where the power cord is. It doesn't show one in the photo. I'm thinking of getting it, but for that price I expect it to work properly.
Hakko is primo for soldering irons. I think the 4.8 rating is much more accurate. I have that same model but it's still sealed in the box but from their website it looks like the power cord exits the unit from the back. I know a few people who have that unit and they all love it. https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fx888d.html I went down to the workshop and took a picture of my $25 unit. As you can see the tip of my heating element has crumbled off and by placing the tip side by side, the heating element never reaches the top. But the unit works just fine for me, from low temperature to high. I've soldered 12 gauge wires with no issues. By the way, all these cheap knock-offs copy Hakko's hand piece design. As a matter of fact, the knock-offs can use Hakko tips!
Within the last year or so maybe, there was a thread here on Trainboard on this very thing. A number of recommendations arose. You have probably seen it, but if not, it's out there somewhere.
I appreciate the info. I definitely need practice. When I took electronic repair classes 20 yrs ago, I learned the "heat bridge" technique I never hear anyone today talk about. Touching the tip to both items to be soldered and creating a heat bridge, then the solder will flow into the joint without touching anything. It melts when you bring it close to the heated parts. I used to be able to do it exact, but not having consistent practice over the years, I lost the touch. I'll check out your more info link and thank you!!
No I haven't seen it, I think March of this year was when I joined. If you or anyone happen to find the thread please bump it. I'd love to check it out.
I see what you mean. I don't know why mine won't stay consistent. Did you have to tighten the nut constantly during use? Mine's been hard to keep tight since the unit was new.
No, mine stays put. A few years ago at one point the plastic nut (bottom of my picture) failed. I don't remember, but it either stripped or cracked, and not because it was constantly loose and I had to tighten it. But I was able to find a replacement on eBay and it became good as new for like $3. I've had no issues at all with the metal nut.
It can be but I don't notice a big difference since I run my iron as hot as it goes, 450c but have no way of knowing what the temp actually is. I've used the Mudder and Austor in .6mm and .8mm (the .6 for most electrical projects) and it seems to flow well with minimum time on the joint. Again I don't use lower temps as you can be on something longer and the heat travels further than using the higher temp. I've tried different fluxes but been using Superior No. 30 Supersafe gel. .now mostly or their Superior No. 30 Supersafe Soldering Liquid ... Both great and like the gel a little better most of the time. It is called a gel but still runs some but not as much and with... .... one of the bottles above and the tip smashed almost closed I can control the amount going on to a very small partial drop. Sumner
I'll be reading through your webpage this evening. You have alot of useful info. I need to order some components to practice with, too. I also want some solder braid wick for desoldering. I don't get good results with solder suckers, I feel I almost need 3 hands to use them properly.
I have that very iron, have had it about 4 years and use it frequently. I love it. Stick with the genuine hakko tips though or you will play the same tightening game with the cheaper off brand tips. This makes me think that the complaint you have about your current soldering iron may be the quality of the tips. I've never owned a higher end Weller but all the ones I've owned required constant tightening. Even my weller soldering gun. I think for the money that Hakko is the best thing out there.
I have it on good authority that I'm getting a Metcal GT-90-HP-T4 soldering system for Father's Day, along with a selected assortment of tips. It is on sale during a Metcal promotion for $250, rather than the usual ~$470 (without tips.) The goods are all here, just waiting for Father's Day, when I get to act shocked and amazed at such a wonderful gift!
