Group, I have an MTL GP 35 that's not working. I place on track and power up but, no movement ( DC power, not DCC ). Any "likely" scenarios and what the fixes may be? Wiper issues /no contact ? If I have a blown motor does MTL sell replacements? Thanks, Dave Hertz
Most of the GP 35s are OOP for more than 10 years. If the motor was unused all the time, everything is possible but most likely it is a contact problem. If the headlight comes on, as Mark has asked, it is not a contact problem, but the motor itself.
Hi Dave. Quick check list Are both motor brush springs present and O.K? is the circuit board making good contact with the cast lugs on the chassis? I've never had a problem with the can motors in the Geep 35's and I've got about twelve of them on my roster. I'm a great believer in 'cleanliness is next to godliness' when doing Z. the first thing I'd do is blast the chassis with 'Servisol 10' switch contact cleaner stood on a pad of folded kitchen paper towel and allowed to drain off and dry. I don't know if it has the same brand name in the States but it is the ultimate 'magic' spray for z mechanisms and has resuscitated many a Marklin 'dog' over the years As the chassis has flywheels it should sort itself out once you get it moving. I don't use electronic track cleaners (Relco/Gaugemaster) with my AZL and MTl stud as a rule but they do tend to blast any minor connections away quite quickly the lights coming on is the biggest clue! Kev
Yup, If the lights come on, then: the springs between the motor and PC board are gone The motor is burnt (its a coreless motor and does *not* like to be 'stalled' for a long time. (note: there are no brushes on these locos !) Or, some one took the chassis apart and does not know how to put it together! See if you can roll the brass cylinder one both sides of the motor (doesn't matter which end, they are both attached to the motor. If it doesn't roll easily, the either the tracks or the motor. See if you can move the wheels just a bit (very little movement, just slop in the gears). Its the middle one that you are trying to see move. Some times, the chassis screws were too tight. After the shell is off, loosen with a 00 Philips head about 1/2 turn and then place a small flat screwdriver under the chassis a sorta spread the 2 halves. Just a light tension will do. NOTE: Do NOT take the chassis apart without a white dish towel, T-shirt or other to stop small parts from getting lost. After removing the springs on the PC board to the motor (NOTE THE ORIENTATION ! Phone have handy cameras) and DO NOT LOOSE THE SPRING(S). There are no more. Loosen the black screws until they fall out. Lay the chassis on its side, split the frame with a small flat screwdriver until the trucks fall out. (note orientation) Carefully lift up the top half of the chassis, trying to keep all the parts of the drive train on the bottom. Above each truck is a brass worm gear. It has 2 round bushings on each side. NOTE very carefully that there is 1 tab on top of each round bearing. That MUST go back into the frame notches. If not, your motor wont turn. If you want to take the gears and bushing out to clean, NOTE the there a 'transparent' flat washers on each side of the round bushing and 1 is Thicker.
Take first thing I would do is to take the motor out and test it with a nine volt battery. You can get parts for the GP35, but if the motor is dead, you are out of luck.
