Basically, here's what you run into. I don't think that Model Power still stocks any of the motors. It's the same motor as in the U28. If you're willing to cut the motor shaft you can even use the motor from the old FM switcher. A single-ended version is in the 0-6-0, but that won't work. There's the donor list. So you can still pick up the U28's in particular on the auction sites for 'not much'. A new motor will run you probably at least $20 of any kind. There's very similar-sized motors from Kato with double shafts and five poles; the one in the Kato 11-103/4 chassis is a favorite, check out Plaza Japan. Mounting will be a problem though. With shipping, you'll be into around $25 and six-weeks wait. For that, on a good day and a little luck, you can get a used Kato U30C or C30-7, first run from the 90's for under $30, particularly if the paint scheme is one of the unloved ones. Never mind the body, you just want the chassis. If you're really cheap turn around and resell the body shell as you won't need it, that's probably $10 right there. Oh, and beware of those guys selling 'chassis', they don't always have trucks. It's not that you can't fix the motor, or even replace the motor, but in terms of what you get for what you pay, putting a used Kato chassis under it really makes a huge performance difference. Most times used locomotives aren't worth much, but the majority of my road power was achieved by buying secondhand Kato. I think I got the one under this U30CG for $25.
Thx to Randgust and Arbomambo's tips, in one evening the .010" holes were properly positioned and drilled much more efficiently and straight. Details in captions on the pics. Thx, guys, for the super tips, couldn't have done it without your advice .
Hi, jp2005, I really agree with Randgust's recommendation, the running quality of the Kato U30C/C30-7 mechanism is light years better than the Minitrix mechanism. You can judge for yourself how you like the appearance of using the Kato mechanism, but for me, I like the Kato mechanism's appearance better as well, and the running quality is so much better, it was my choice. You can get the older non-DCC Kato U30C/C30-7 mechanisms now on that auction site for easily $40 or so (my average guess if you watch and wait for the right one) without a problem. If your priority is on having the best runner for the time you spend to refit the shell, I'd second Randgust's recommendation to go that way. That having been said, this is a free choice world, I have 3 spare Trix mechanisms now that I'm going never going to use, I'd be happy to sell the best-running one of the bunch to you quite inexpensively (mechanism and all, so you don't have to do any motor swapping at all unless you want to.....). if that's the way you really want to go, send me a private message here on Trainboard and we can discuss how well it runs vs. the cost of it vs. the silky smooth Kato cost/runninq quality, if after that what you really want is the Trix mechanism I'm sure we can work something out that will help you, I'm not out to make any big bucks here. Now you have options .
If anyone still monitors this thread, I'd be interested in purchasing a full U30CG Trix/Kato conversion ...I don't see as well as I used to and I get dizzy and headaches working on N scale engines. I now focus on building scenery.....
Hi, all, This thread will be active again when I get some time to post.... after a very busy year with way too much work in between (and now the move to Florida), I did manage to finally get the wire handrails done on all the U30CG's: Thx to *Randgust* for the handrail techniques and friendly "push"' to do them and the wire grabirons. I'm on the final stretch... next is body-mounting the Micro-Trains couplers, then a trip to the weathering booth. We'll see how long that takes....... AT&SF FTL, sorry, mine aren't for sale, but perhaps someone else may want to chime in.
Mine got a good workout this weekend at the train show in San Antonio pulling my Texas Chief around the NTRAK layout. I wish I had a second one to put on my eleven car train for aesthetic purposes but the one was able to handle it without problems. Even with the old Trix mechanism it ran nice. With the wire hand rails and the windows opened up a lot of people thought it was a brass locomotive.
Yes, Randgust, your resin full fuel tanks make a *big* positive difference in appearance, as all of you can tell in the pic above. Thx again for doing those for us Santa Fe fans out here. And remember, all, it's Randgust's original U30CG picture in this thread that got me started.... it's all his fault . Otherwise, this trio would never have gotten started. Thx again, Randgust.
That's great, Russell. If you ever want some spare Minitrix U30CG mechanisms, just drop me a line, they're yours if you want them.
So here's where I am with this project. I got all the wire handrails on. Still some tuning of them to do, and then paint them, but at least they are all there: And here, in addition to the handrails, the grabirons and irons over the windshields are also visible:
I also ended up lining them up for a couple photos: And made Kato-style inserts using the original inserts from the C30-7 or U30C's that donated the mechanisms, to hold them in the Kato jewel cases: Final touches will be to paint the handrails, and then put on the body mount couplers. I over-engineered that body-mount coupler process, admittedly, using pruned (expensive) MT 1161 U30C conversion kits. But at least it works and I've been able to get a consistent coupler height and appearance. More photos of how that was done are coming, in case you'd like to learn from it. After that will finally be putting on the numberboards as shown here: http://home.comcast.net/~atsf_arizona_2/Easy_N_Scale_Locomotive_Numberboards.html And then weathering. Then this 8+ month project will be complete Rather labor-intensive. I think I'll leave it at doing this trio, I don't think I'm up for doing the 400, 401, or 402. :-( (never say never in model railroading )
Oldrk, OC Engineer JD, and Cajonpassfan, you're very kind, I'm just happy I can be of help and sharing to all of you. I will post more details of what was done as I get time (that way we all can have a record of what was done.... as time goes by, I find it's so easy to forget, in a year or two, and end up saying to myself, "how did I do that?!?"...... )
I like the part where I think I got him hooked on brass wire handrails... With John's documentation and tutorial skills, he'll probably do a better job of training than me.
