The Greenbrier Logging and Sawmill Co R.R. #5

OleSmokey May 30, 2021

  1. OleSmokey

    OleSmokey TrainBoard Member

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    Hehe, Fifer is one i deal with a lot! Checking into those metal wheelsets. Thanks
     
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  2. BigJake

    BigJake TrainBoard Member

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    I've rarely had a problem with an MT wheelset, and never with their trucks. I replaced all my Bachmann railcar trucks with MTs.

    Sometimes the fit of an MT truck on the bolster of a non-MT railcar is less than ideal, allowing the car to wobble some.
     
  3. OleSmokey

    OleSmokey TrainBoard Member

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    That could be part of the issue. Most were Micro Trains but metal should help. Another thing is these cars are not very heavy so its easy to derail.
     
  4. BigJake

    BigJake TrainBoard Member

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    If railcars are derailing when in long strings of railcars (particularly if they are toward the locomotive end), car weight (or lack thereof) is a likely issue to investigate and address.
     
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  5. OleSmokey

    OleSmokey TrainBoard Member

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    Those logging cars i have are 25 foot long, Scale sized. They are metal but the wheels just make it to light Metal wheels might make the difference. Can only pull two or three up that grade. They even jump track when the box cars go like they are supposed to. Gonna get a couple of boxes. won't hurt.
     
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  6. OleSmokey

    OleSmokey TrainBoard Member

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    Back a couple of Months before i had finished the main line on this new layout I bought 5 locomotives. 2 RS-2's, 2 MW-2's and a 44 toner. When i got engines i broke them in. The little 44 toner burnt up and i sent it back to Bachmann for repairs. I got it back today and it is one smooth runner.
     

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  7. OleSmokey

    OleSmokey TrainBoard Member

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    Happy Fathers Day folks!!
     
  8. OleSmokey

    OleSmokey TrainBoard Member

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    I have been working on my truck for a couple of days now, but needed parts. On order so i should get them in a few days. Today i got my new power supply for my turnouts. My last one died. I got a Digitrax PS-14 that is really good as it is dc output. 15 volts and enough amps to drive the turnouts made by Kato. WooHoo! Other than cleaning out the junk on the layout and floor under it, Next ops will be scenery. I've been putting off that job. No fun there.. Laters
     
  9. OleSmokey

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    Well, I started it. Now i am in over my head. I don't want to do building block type. I am wondering if i can just place the foam outlined so i can run the plaster cloth over it. I want to keep it open on the underside so i can get at derails in the tunnels or if i want to add lighting later. Not sure if this is correct what i started. The front side is foam board with Pink behind it to give it strength. I am not sure the height so i am guessing 10 inches on that right. I want to make it higher on the other back corner. Thinking around 16 - 18 inches over there. Anyway thats it, not sure if i am doing it right but i am sure some will give me ideas.
     

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  10. MK

    MK TrainBoard Member

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    You can't just drape plaster cloth over it with no underlying support. Plaster cloth will sag greatly when wet.

    What you can do is cut cardboard strips and form a lattice over the area. Weave the strips over and under each other.

    An alternative is go to a craft store like Michaels and get a metal mesh sheet in the Sculpting department. The sculptors use the mesh to form a shape before slathering on a layer of clay. Similar to what you want, a hollow inside.

    Finally you can also ball/crunch up newspaper. Make multiple balls. After layering plaster cloth and drying, reach inside with your hand and tear the newspaper out.

    Either methods will get you a hollow inside.
     
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  11. OleSmokey

    OleSmokey TrainBoard Member

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    The newspaper is the way to go. Use painters tape, that blue tape, and hold it together till after the plaster is dry.then pull the newspaper balls out after. The plaster is strong enough to hold the mountain parts together? Sounds like the way to go if it will.
     
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  12. MK

    MK TrainBoard Member

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    Yes, the plaster cloth is strong enough, and lightweight too. Think a cast for a broken limb.

    And if it makes you sleep better at night, after the plaster cloth dries, put a skim coat of Sculptamold or Hyrdrocal over it. I would use Sculptamold as it has a much longer working time.
     
  13. BigJake

    BigJake TrainBoard Member

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    I don't question that cured plaster cloth can be strong enough for robust terrain. I think the concern expressed is that, when wet (uncured), plaster cloth has virtually no rigidity, and thus needs at least temporary support to hold it in shape until it cures to its rigid state.

    Note also that almost all medical immobilization casts today employ fiberglass, not plaster cloth. The former, when cured, is far stronger, lighter, and is also waterproof. But just like plaster cloth, it does not have much strength until cured.
     
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  14. MK

    MK TrainBoard Member

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    That's what the crumpled newspaper shapes or cardboard strip lattice are for, support when wet. Many have used this method, myself included, with great success.
     
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  15. OleSmokey

    OleSmokey TrainBoard Member

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    I am debating between newspaper or cardboard. Not ready for that part of the plan yet. but sounds like those are my best options. I am also thinking i am going to have to shorten the mountain on the left side. Its just too high. Will see if 12- 14 inches will work. Thanks for the ideas. I was thinking about trying out the Sculptamold or Hyrdrocal for covering. Which is really better? I never used that before. Again, Starting new things. Thanks for the ideas on this layout. Learning new things and using new things as well, So i will be asking as i go along. Some shots of those corners for the mountains.
     

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  16. OleSmokey

    OleSmokey TrainBoard Member

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    When it rains.. One of my NW-2's bit the dust for good. I have two of them. One runs great and really never gives me any trouble at all. This other one has acted up ever since i bought it. Doing a F8 to reset has never worked and tearing it apart to hit the reset was the only thing that worked. After a couple of times i drilled a small hole in the hood so i can stick a toothpick in it and reset the beast. After i did that i had no trouble till today. It started out ok but the beast wouldn't let me control it from the dcc unit so i shut the controller off and back on. In that book it says that resets the controller. The engine wouldn't do anything. The rear headlight was on dim and nothing else would work. So i did that reset and this time it wouldn't work. I thought i might not be hitting the button right so i took off the hood. hit the reset and still nothing. Not sure whats wrong but the chip on top of the motor was awful hot so i think it is toast. Got to call them tomorrow and get the mailing address. Its a shame.
     
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  17. OleSmokey

    OleSmokey TrainBoard Member

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    Well, Its Saturday and forgot what that meant. Have to wait till Monday. I got most of the skeleton done for the back of the layout. Two shots of the "fun". The one with the white is the other mountain. Don't know why pink turned to white but ehh..
     

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  18. OleSmokey

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    The town side is about 2/3rd of it done. Will be using some drywall to smooth it down some. Paint and it should be ok. Shots below Smokey
     

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  19. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    Thats looking pretty darned good ! (y)(y)
     
  20. OleSmokey

    OleSmokey TrainBoard Member

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    Yep, I have one part that gave away and sagged down but not bad. I think i can fix that with drywall mud. Taking a break to clean up the mess and run a train thru and make sure i got it good below the mountain. I got some other projects i need to take care of, anyway i need to get my truck back together and running again. Laters all and thanks for all the likes.
     

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