Seeking options for signals and where to place them for each of the 4 turnouts on the layout. Atlas, currently has a common cathode BiDirectional 2 aspect signal but somewhat pricey-Atlas N 70000104 Signal Type G, Bi-Directional . Really like the BiDirectional feature. Would prefer Amber + Green vs Red and Green.
Showcase miniatures makes some excellent signal kits of different styles. https://www.showcaseminiatures.net/n_scale/n_scale_century_foundry_signals/ Unless you are doing the searchlight style all the signal heads they offer are tri lens from what I can see. In all cases the LEDs are a separate item on that page I linked to from above. Searchlights you just order the signal and lights as separate items. The other styles you order the mast, signal head/s of you're choice then the appropriate light kit for them. Their LED kits are common anode. You'd save a couple of dollars but would have to do your own assembly and they can be fiddly but they are the best looking thing out there IMO.
If you want prototype placement, every X in this photo would need a signal of some kind. The ones one the spur heading upper left could be dwarfs. At a very minimum you'd need the four to protect the crossover and the one upper right of the crossover (inside the circle) would have to be double headed to cover the spur.
A real railroader would be our best source of information, but signals can reflect track occupancy and/or routing at interlockings. You'd probably be best served by route indications and it'd likely be easier to wire up. You might want a signal on each side of each switch, indicating the position, green for straight, yellow for diverging and red if the switch is set against a train coming from the other direction. The crossover might get one signal at each corner, perhaps green for straight and yellow for diverging. There're probably many ways to skin this cat.
IF you have a 3D printer you can make your own signals anyway you want on the cheap. Newer target and dwarf signals are on page three of my designs and working semaphores are on page one. https://www.thingiverse.com/ajkochev/designs
Oh yeah, definitely dont look forward to building them Thank you for the x's. Just to confirm... The outermost x's along bottom serves the double crossover; the X's almost directly above those are for the #4 RT, x's above center of s-xover for Wye? While I like the signals, for the most part really only want these as a visual indication of turnout position and didn't even think about if the switch is against the train... Great point! Unfortunately, no 3D printer. I really like your signals. Earlier today, found these on eBay. Kinda like using Yel - Thrown GRN Closed. https://www.ebay.com/itm/402627267447 Also considering maybe round 1.8mm or 3mm bi color LED and some styrene tubing though think Red GRN is only option for bi-color? Might be good since they tend to be omnidirectional offering better viewing regardless of angle?
I don't have lineside signals, instead using green and yellow LEDs on my control panel that control switches. I must sheepishly admit my dislike of the widely-used using "Thrown" and "Closed" for switch positions as established by model railroaders. Thrown in what position? Closed to what? The prototype uses "Normal" and "Reverse", which makes much better sense. In fact, on my railroad radio scanner I often hear "Switch Is Normal, Switch Is Normal" or "Switch Is Reversed, Switch Is Reversed" when NS moves switches by radio remote.
Mostly. That upper right X in the circle covers the switch immediately adjacent to the right (the #4) AND the next switch for the cross over. So in the prototype it would likely have two heads.
I figured YEL-GRN since use only as indication. Its kinda of funny you mention Normal and Reverse. When first starting to look at decoders, the Switch-Kats use N and R, and I didn't know the meaning until months afterwards. So assumed normal = closed and reverse=thrown? What would be considered as closed or normal for a Wye turnout? Unfortunately, after closer inspection, don't think have enough open side (bottom most 2 Xs) since foamboard-plywood is on top of 1x2 frame. The closest to the edge that's possible is between the lower and upper legs of the double crossover. Maybe find or make a 2 track cantilever The real problem is when farther than my eyes can see the turnout's position, which is most of the time. Even though ED shows turnout position, would really love to have quick visual as compared to switching throttle screens. Curious, if anyone is using something like; or What is the approximate maximum angle of seeing the lit LED. eg Can the lit led be seen if one is looking at the side 90deg or corner 45deg of the signal? If light dispersion is narrow, don't think they will work for goal?
Thanks to all for their input. Going to start off making signal indicators with NTE Electronics NTE30101 3mm Bi-Color Yel-Grn LEDs mounted in a styrene tube and raised just high enough to easily view regardless of the side one is operating the layout. Decided to go this way for a few reasons... -The scarcity of YEL-GRN signals. -Need to have the light dispersion angle as wide as possible -Lower structure simplifies track cleaning.
Been waiting a long time to have turnout signals and now all thats needed is to push code to the layout's Arduino and install the LEDs in styrene tube-- mount and wire. Finally... The video below shows the test in action using a spare tri-color CC LED.
I don't understand Ardunio, but do very much enjoy seeing your circuitry and your success. Cool stuff!
I've asked that questions many times. You have to know all about such things. You are alive aren't you. It's just like using a rotary dial wall phone. The ones that took coins to operate.
Gotta agree.. This is really so cool. So I'll share a little more... Just started running total DCC EX on layout a few minutes ago. Initially was going to pull the Pi-JMRI off the layout but decided to install the Arduino IDE (compiler) on the Pi and push code from the Pi to the Arduino eliminating need to have USB cable and push code from one of the Win10 pcs. Running the IDE on the 2G Pi4 is not all that bad... From the multimonitor laptop.. Remote Desktop into headless MS10 Desktop-Server (the bottom-most taskbar). Server is running a Win10 Hyper-V guest (taskbar right above lowest one), The Win10 guest has VNC client and remotes into the Pi (using S Todds JMRI Image-Already setup) . Shared out the arduino folder with desktop shortcut to easily move DCC EX cfg files from/to pi to/from PC if needed. LOL I must be crazy.. Of course, I could directly VNC into Pi from laptop but that's too easy. lol As soon as the Bi-Color Yel-GRN LEDs and barrier strips arrive, turnout lighting can be setup and then all scenery lighting will be moved and independently controlled via routes and Eng Driver. Very Exciting Times... But did take a 2 hr break in-between this post and last on this beautiful 75 sunny day. During the bicycle ride, stopped and saw this... Pretty nice jet... Well, back to a little more DCC EX fun...
While waiting for the signal LEDs, played a little bit with separating out lighting control under DCC EX . Anyway, this is the result. Maybe a little too much??
Update. Received the NTE30101 YEL-GRN BiColor LEDs. While they work, the power required to provide sufficient intensity is far more than what is desired. Overlooked Luminous Intensity, the unit of measure in mcd (millicandela), so my mistake. The Test RGB (KingBright L-154A4SURKQBDZGC) LED's intensity in above post is significantly higher and definitely acceptable eg; The RGB's current - RED 540uA GRN 464uA NTE YEL-GRN BiColor YEL-6.27mA GRN 6.02mA The RGB mcd TYP-MIN RED 1200(600) BLUE 800(450) GRN 1700(1000) The NTE mcd YEL-40(25) GRN-50(30) So at approx 1/10 current, the KingBright RGB shine more brightly and easily seen from different angles as compared to the BiColor LED, which is questionably acceptable unless a lower current limiting resistor is used, thus drawing above 6mA. Why unnecessarily consume more power than necessary for more than needed intensity?? Recognize that in many cases low power consumption at these levels is not an issue and the Arduino Mega's pins support 40mA max however, guess been a very happy and (spoiled) with lighting efficiency... even the WS Depot lights sufficiently, IMHO, at less than 400uA. At this point and last attempt to have YEL-GRN signals, going to get the SunLED XLVGMYK59M and evaluate intensity when 1-2mA flows thru them. If they are bright enough at around 1mA, will probably keep the YEL-GRN. mcd YEL-597(250) GRN-198(80) going to also buy KingBright WP154A4SUREQBFZGC (closest replacement of test RGB with slightly better mcd specs) and forget about using YEL and GRN if 1mA or so thru is unacceptable. On to more fun...
After trying both a light grey(concrete) and a bluish-grey (metal) which didn't really seem to fit, bought silver paint since most commercially available signals seem to be either black or silver (more metal look). Preferred to try silver... The LED shown is not the same ordered but is similar. The replacement LEDs should be here Sat. Unsure about look, silver reflection and may possibly reduce height by submerging more into ground or cutting pylon??
