I want to remove the factory applied decals on some coil cars before rpainting. I tried the search but couldn't find anything. Any proven methods ?? Thanks
I was just contemplating the same thing. My thought is getting an Air eraser. its like a mini sand blaster but uses baking soda.
I put mine in 91% isopropyl bath for about a minute or less and take a light brush and gently sweep away the decal print into the alky bath. You have to do it very carefully to not get the layer below it coming off too.
Since the lettering is paint on most factory painted and lettered stock trying to remove the lettering and not the base car color is not easy. In the past I have used an old typewriter eraser pencil, the type you can sharpen like a regular pencil, hard to find nowadays if at all. But when sharpened to a point it has always done a good job for me with minimal touch-up.
I use Comet cleaner make it into a paste then rub on the lettering/number with a soft wooden stick,You need to rise often to check you progress, but it seems to work with just a little shiny area left behind. I have used this to remove Norfolk & western from a Bachmann J and left the orange strip behind with only a small amount of wear.
With all the current craze for weathering, why not simply paint over the "decal"? I use that approach on steam locomotive tenders that I wish to reletter for B&O.
How well do these methods work on Atlas lettering?? I've got close to 2 dozen Rio Grande locomotives to renumber. Full number removal, or just paint over current numbering?? Have the decals, just never followed through with doing anything! Maybe now I can! Information appreciated. Thanks.
For renumbering, I use a combination of the above methods.......I use 91% alchohol and a round toothpick. I put the alchohol on just the lettering with a small brush or swab......it doesn't matter if you get it on the base color, but the smaller the area the better. Then I rub on the numbers with the toothpick. After a little use, the end of the toothpick will get sort of fuzzy, which is good........I use the same toothpick over and over. You'll need to reapply the alcohol periodically as it gets "used up" and also evaporates. I've never had this eat thru the base paint.....usually the paint will get shiny where you rub, which is actually good for applying the new decals. I give the shell a coat of dullcoat after the new decals are applied and you'd never know anything was done. I figure about 30 minute time per car or loco total time.
I've had very good results using Walthers Solvaset right out of the bottle, spreading it over the numbers or lettering that needs to be removed. I then take a good pencil eraser and rub the area until the numbers or lettering is gone. The trick is to keep that area wet, do not let it dry until everything has been removed. It can take a bit of scrubbing on some and not so much on others. I've had some numbers on an Intermountain loco pretty much just flake off, while one KATO I had to scrub with some force before the numbers began to show any signs of thinning. I've never had it remove any of the underlying paint. YMMV
For factory painted lettering-- I have had great results using an eraser. I have one that is in pencil form. For a model that has decals-- I use Solveset- straight out of the bottle. Any way- my 2 pennies. Wolf
Oh man,I would never do this..I've seen some locomotives that the paint will come start washing off in 91% alcohol in SECONDS..
+1 for these..I use Micro-Sol since I don't use Solvaset for decaling,and a mix of Micro-Sol and Micro-Set for decals..Micro Set makes it work better,since it actually penetrates the decal..
I usually do a 'solvent test' on the inside or underneath of a car to see what the paint is made of. Everybody does their own thing and it's always a risk to try this. "most of the time" if I want to remove lettering, I'm pretty safe using an eraser DIPPED in alcohol. The question is whether the paint is going to come off as well. So I'll test the paint to see if it is impacted with that first. If it is, well, I'll try something else. Sometimes nothing will work, but of the alternatives, that's the safest. Many manufacturers seem to use lettering paint that is soluble in alcohol but the base paint isn't. The same applies for the next level up - brake fluid - but that always runs the risk of attacking the plastic. You'll also want to test that where it won't show first to see what it will do. Most times it will dissolve just about everything but the plastic underneath, lettering will go fast and you'll want to be pretty careful. Level 3 is Pine Sol, in the old days I'd use that as a stripper but it absolutely dissolved some shells, so experiment carefully first. I've seen old-school Floquil thinner do an instant job of removing lettering and leaving paint behind, that's another one. There's absolutely nothing wrong with a "new" patch job of similar color over just the reporting marks and car number on a car that is otherwise quite weathered, happens all the time, so if you're just trying to keep cars individual that's by far the easiest way out. Don't hide it, accentuate it on all the reporting marks and dimensional data.
Level 3 is Pine Sol, in the old days I'd use that as a stripper but it absolutely dissolved some shells, so experiment carefully first. Yup, that can be a problem. I've found that the only one that is safe in general is the original scent, any of the newer "more acceptable" scents caused me problems. If you don't mind your work room smelling like a public restroom, Pine Sol works great! Of course, they may change formulations from time to time, so beware.
Well, if the goal is repainting I would give another feedback... Myself I've repainted a Z scale Micro-Trains GP35 a while ago. My goal was to wipe off everything from the shell. I had to soak it in a 90° alcohol bath, but it wasn't done in seconds nor minutes: it had to stay about 1 hour and 1 half, and I had to use an old toothbrush to increase speed of the process. No problem anyway, shells are made of hard plastic (I guess it's the same with every manufacturer), and there was absolutely no damage on it. Dom
Absolutely,but I wouldn't ever put an entire shell in just to remove the lettering..I've painted thousands of locomotives,most got stripped with 91-93% alcohol or Purple Power,and either requires patience.I throw a shell in,and go back and look at it the next day..I never strip a shell thinking I'm gonna paint it that day.I have a medical grade 4 gallon ultrasonic cleaner I use mostly for stripping paint off of tough stuff.
Randy,Pine Sol actually has mineral spirits in it,so,avoid the stink,go right to low odor paint thinner,LOL!! Actually,a few here have mentioned erasers..One finer point,not all erasers are created equal.A lot of newer pencils come with crappy erasers that are like a piece of gum,they're worthless..If it won't erase pencil easily,it won't take off lettering,either..The type eraser you want is kinda gritty,should be able to take lettering off by itself like a little piece of sandpaper..
Sounds worth experimenting with. Do you have to chew on the toothpick, first, to soften it up? :teeth:
Another question I'm wondering: Could any of these methods be used for removing lettering - In this case Rio Grande lettering? The idea, based on a photo posted long ago, of a Rio Grande SD45, with small lettering showing up from under a coat of black paint, and the new large Billboard style lettering. I think something similar would make for an interesting piece of equipment!! Just gotta find said photo now!
