Hey guys, So I am really struggling to get some No-ox ID special posted here to Switzerland without paying an exuberant amount of postage, so I've been looking into alternatives. I found this conductive paint that comes in a brown colour and I am wondering if this will solve two problems at once. Giving the rails a protective coating that will help conductivity and also weathering the track. I use Fleishmann Piccolo track and the turnouts are my biggest issue with the insulated frogs (obviously have to be careful painting those) and I really like the idea of being able to paint the tracks with this stuff and have the trains naturally wear the paint off the tops of the rails. It also comes in a handy pen format too so could be good building circuits inside buildings for LEDs and the like. Thoughts?
I don't it's the conductivity at play here since modern track metallurgy is pretty conductive already. It's really the oxidation that makes spotty conductivity. Unless your paint has an anti-oxidation/corrosion component I don't think it will help. That's why people use No-Ox. It's not to increase conductivity (they are pretty conductive already) but rather to prevent oxidation/corrosion. You can not get No-Ox from Amazon Swiss or Europe?
Try any other brand of dielectric grease. The stuff is sold here in the US in automotive parts stores for use in protecting electrical connections. When I buy a replacement headlight I use some on the contacts. They sell tubes for $6 and single use packets (enough for a small layout) for $1 so its a cheap gamble. Its a bit runnier than the No-Ox.
you might try kerosene, just a drop here and there, and let the rolling stock spread it out .. personally i used no-ox ...no need to try anything else
I've been doing an extensive amount of research into this, looking at alternative products that might work, and as far as I can tell, No-ox is the only product of its type. That's why I was wondering if the paint would work, it would cover the rails, give a weathered look but also be conductive. I might just bite the bullet, get some and give it a go - what's the worst that can happen........ I've looked on both Amazon and *sigh* Ebay for No-ox and most of it is shipped from the US, and they either won't ship to here or its upwards of $30 for a 2oz tub that cost $5! From what I can gather, Dielectric grease is a protective coating that is also insulating so works great on your battery terminals in the car after you have connected everything but shouldn't be used between two mating surfaces that must conduct electricity. I've got some kero floating around so might give that ago - but that's why I'm after this no-ox stuff!
Here is an article on track cleaning and some of the discussion afterwards. Publishers Musings: Keep your model train track clean longer? | Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine (model-railroad-hobbyist.com) As far as painting the track, what's the worst that could happen? You might render the track non-conductive and the model railroad might not function at all. Also be careful about painting switches, very easy to paint the points shut. If you do want to try that paint, select a test section that is easily in reach and paint it then test it. Include some switch work. See if it actually gets worn off. After the test section works the way you want it, then paint the rest.
Good article, thanks for that, makes sense now why some stuff works and others don't, didn't think about the whole micro-arc being the cause of the dreaded black gunk. It was a tongue in cheek comment regarding what could happen, I wasn't about to go mad with the airbrush and (as the Stones put it) paint it black - or brown in this case. Though I am thinking it could solve some of my issues around dodgy rail connectors and those dreaded little wires they use to power the rails on the turnout. I have a section of track that is perfect for the job and if it doesn't work then the track cleaning loco can spend a bit of time scrubbing. Anyway - I brought some and will give it a go. I also managed to find some No-ox for a less obscene amount of cash, so both are ordered and just have to wait and see what happens.
Anyway to split the cost between other modelers or club members? Believe me, that 2 oz. tub can last many MANY generations to come!
@Chris Hall I've thought about how to make the sides of the rail look realistically rusty, too. I figured painting them with a brush would give me enough control to keep the paint off those areas a flanged wheel makes contact with, but haven't tried it. Electric contact is a precious thing, and I wasn't anxious to risk it. Conductive paint is a brilliant idea. It certainly sounds like a way to get the best look, as the paint would get worn off just the same way rust gets worn off prototype rails. Please let us know how it works!
I have painted some of the rails with a paint pen but still ended up with it on the tops of the rails, so spent a lot of time wiping it off afterwards, I'm hoping that this stuff I can just let naturally wear off, but I guess it will be dependant on how brown it is!
I've been thinking that maybe I should scoop some out into small plastic containers and sell on the Swiss ebay.... might help pay for it!
We clean the track to keep our wheels clean, then we clean the wheels to keep our track clean. It's the ouroboros of model railroading.
I used to teach training sessions about electronics...conductive paint/grease I would always correct and call it 'non-insulating' paint/grease.It will NOT be 0 ohms conductive. Most conductive paint just has metal particles mixed in that can still rust or corrode. With how long model RR has been around, if something REALLY WORKED WELL, everyone would be using it. From what I have heard, the best thing to do is to coat the rail with something that will limit oxidation (usually some type of oil). The reason we use nickle silver rail is because the oxidation is still conductive (I've been around liong enough to remember all of the brass track that was not conductive once it oxidized). I would NEVER paint the top of the rail, that's just begging for problems!
just eat the cost on a small tub of no-ox, it's simply worth it ...i have vacuumed, but not rub cleaned the track on mine for years
I did. Total cost a fraction over $50 but I figured for ease of cleaning it will be worth it. Ordered the paint too, but unsure if it will come - had to fill in a form asking a whole pile of questions regarding what industry I am using it in, am I going to resell it, is it for commercial use etc, almost feel like the FBI will come knocking..... I have a cunning plan (almost weasel like) that, if the paint does turn up, I'll have a go at and post up the results!
A suggestion if I may.... You are using sectional track. If you really want to try that paint...do it on ONE section. That way if it dont give the results you are hoping for you only have to replace that ONE section of track.....JMO...
Thanks George, I have a whole pile of spare track, a lot of which is scrap so I have an idea I want to try using that stuff first. If it works - woohoo on to the main layout, if not, Oh well I can just biff it (or most likely use it on the layout as scenery somehow. Spare rails beside the main, stuff like that). I really want to see if this stuff will help with the rail joiners between each section - without having to resort to soldering.
[QUOTE="Chris Hall, post: 1178974, member: 37167] I really want to see if this stuff will help with the rail joiners between each section - without having to resort to soldering.[/QUOTE] paint on the joiners really will not help, nor will no-ox really, best results are with soldering the joiners in place ..
