Kato is re-releasing the UP FEF 4-8-4 with a factory installed ESU Lok-Sound decoder this fall. Also the Kato Mikado sound decoder installation is very easy if you follow instructions carefully. I installed ESU Lok-Sound decoders and speakers in many of my Kato Mikado's. Have fun with it......
So from what I gather plus a little more hunting on the web the loco is dual mode. And for the folks that don't want the sound but do want DCC it seems like it would be a simple issue to remove the sound board, and put it in the box for later if one should change their mind. I would not even remove the speaker rather leave it in place for the little bit of extra weight in the tender. But I do see some folks' point though that if one does not like Bmann's brand of decoder or sound system why pay more for something one is going to replace.
Just seems odd...that with this locomotive in particular...that they dont advertise it as 'dual mode'...if in fact it is. It sure would help the modelers make an informed decision whether to buy one or not. JMHO.
It is a dual-mode decoder. I don't even own a DCC controller, and mine ran with no complaints off of a 12v DC power pack. Mind you, I'm going to have to get a DCC system now, because I plan on getting more of these (and a few M1bs if BLI ever gets their act together) and the whistle is going to drive me nuts until I change it, but... yes, they will run just fine on DC. The starting voltage will be higher than for a straight DC or DCC-only locomotive, but you shouldn't have any problems if you don't want/don't have the money for a DCC system. Word of warning, though- I don't know what the story is with this particular decoder, but some "dual mode" decoders Bmann has used in the past have been very unfriendly towards pulse power (as in, I baked an RS3 once that way). Be careful with that; if you have a power pack that delivers straight DC, use that instead until Bmann says it's safe to do otherwise.
Do you have a voltmeter on your DC pack or otherwise connected to the track? If so, what is the approximate starting voltage and what voltage equates to what you would consider to be a realistic top speed?
I ordered speakers from Digi-key; they were ones that J. Colombo had shown in one of his sound demos on YouTube. Sorry I do not have the item number. I think they are Knowles. I ordered 10 or 12 and have used 4 so far.
I have only a test loop of Kato unitrack. I have been taking locomotives out of storage to determine how they are running after months of being idle. The B'mann heavy 4-8-2 with Vandy tender is currently on the loop. Last night when I ran it, the urge to have sound dcc installed hit me. This would be the first time I replaced an existing dcc decoder. I relettered the undec one for Baltimore and Ohio.
I just got back from a train show our club did in which I ran both the B'mann K4 and the MRC/Model Power 2-8-2. I didn't bother trying to change any of the factory settings so this was, more or less, to establish a sort of base line for comparison. Both engines exhibited the same characteristics that modelers in the past have noted on other sound equipped engines. Namely the sound is not loud enough for a large room with its accompanying background noise. The sound sort of gets lost in the other noise. Take away the background noise, like say in one's basement or train room the sound is much more noticeable. Also the sound has a tininess quality to it. Both of these qualities may be due to the relatively small size of the speaker needed to fit inside the tender. I still have to play with the CV's to see if I can get any improvement.
I monitor the bantering over on the Trainboard and the big issue there is the comparison of the Bachmann K4 with the older Trix and the Trix shell on a Kato C55 mechanism. Someone posted a drawing of the K4 superimposed over a photo of the Bachmann model and overall the two lined up very well. The big issue is the driver size. The Bachmann has undersized drivers. However, that is a given since there is no way a N scale model of a K4 could have the correct size drivers and the correct overall distance from first to third drivers. Here is why. The K4 sported 80 inch drivers equipped with a 1 inch flange. That makes the overall driver diameter, including flanges 82 inches. The drivers were spaced on 83 inch centers. So the distance between driver flanges was 1 inch. It is impossible to have a prototypical flange of 1 inch in N scale and expect the locomotive to stay on the track. That prototypical 1" flange scales out in the world of 1:160 to .00625 inches (1 x 1/160= .00625) which is 1/3 of what MT calls their 'low profile' flange and only 28.4% of the NMRA recommended minimum. So one must therefore either spread out the drivers and thereby increasing the distance and probably affecting the overall proportions of the locomotive or use undersized drivers to keep the overall distance correct and not affecting the overall locomotive proportions. Bachmann chose the latter and that was probably the better choice.
Unsolicited plug: Support Your Local Locomotive Reviewer. Mark (Spookshow) posted the K4 he reviewed on eBay for resale. I trust (hope) this is legal: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221890324125?_trksid=p2060353.m1431.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Plan on buying one in December although the sand dome is too high and too boxy in shape. The HO Bachmann was probably the same way.
Just ordered mine from my LHS in Billings. Finally got there today and he looked it up, the one I wanted was available from Walthers! The pre-war in plain paint. Am looking forward to comparing it's sound to the sound of the Loksound I use.
John LeMerise (Lemosteam) has designed replacement sand domes for the K4 on Shapeways. He designed this part to address the height issue with the one on the K4 model. His store on Shapeways is Keystone_Details. This part is not for sale right now, but you may want to contact him to find out when it will be available. Scott
I looked and saw it sold at $231.04, after starting at $99.99, with 6 bidders, two of whom were really competing at the higher price. Web sites have them new at $259.99 - $279.99. Franky, I would probably pay EXTRA for an item the Mark had checked-out and written a good review about. Good QA in my opinion, and that is worth something. Anyway, this does help set a good "street price" for a model with an admittedly extravagant MSRP.
