You might want to look into Posi-Taps. They make coming off a main buss a cinch (though work better with a stranded-wire main, rather than solid).
Rick, Are these Posi-Taps like the suitcase connectors where you have to buy the right connector for the gauge of wire you will be using? How do they physically connect the two different sized wires? Just curious. Scratch that, just looked at their site and those things certainly look better (much better) than suitcase connectors. Might even try them myself if I can figure out which ones I would need for 12 gauge main and 20 gauge feeders.
I have used them extensively on both my home layout (JACALAR) and my FreeMoN modules. For 12 to 20, you want the Black ones. This is the underside of my Silicon Valley Station module: you can see the black PosiTaps coming off the mains (the green and white mains are the Aux bus); and, the blue PosiTaps are branching smaller wires (for all the lighting). You can usually get 3 tap wires into each.
Rick, Thanks mate - I think I might try them as they do seem "solid" and have nothing but a few dollars to loose if they don't work for me. I also like the idea that you can run more than 1 feeder into each connector, that could have a lot of advantages.
So another question and this maybe a dumb one! Drew some very basic diagrams below, obviously the one on the left would need an auto reverser for DCC. Would the one on the right also need one? My plan will be a double main all the way around with reversing loops at each end, now the loop won't actually return on to the same track - rather it would return as the second main going the opposite way..... but there will be some crossovers.... does that require an AR? Hope it makes sense... Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes. And, for simplicity, depending how long the central part is, make the two end loops the reverse sections, and the central area with the crossovers "straight through" with the same order of polarity on each track. If you have double mains, then you may want to consider both outer loops as separate reversing sections.
Steve, If you are going to run a double main, why have a reverse loop at all? Having cross overs between the two tracks and running two trains in opposite directions would have a similar effect without the problem of reverse loops. Could just be me but I don't see any advantage in having reverse loops for your plan.
Maybe I didn't draw it right or explain it right..... Say I have two mains side by side - main 1 and main 2. When main 1 (uphill traffic) gets to the top of the summit it circles back and now becomes main 2 (downhill traffic). Main 1 and 2 are both separate but side by side, thought I could add crossovers because Cajon actually has them and sometimes you have LH and other times RH traffic. Would have the other loop at the bottom to turn around main 2's downhill traffic to send it back uphill on main 1 I was trying to simulate it in my trackplan or if I have a Main 3 they can also cross onto it. Wasnt sure if I'd need the AR's for that..... I'm confused now..... I'm confused , maybe I can post an actual draft track plan in the coming days and you guys can indicate if I still need them and where/how to wire them in?? I've never had to use an AR but the next plan may need them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hmm, I'm a little confused so will wait till you have a track plan in place. As for reverse loops, they aren't difficult to install - fairly self explanatory to be honest. The only things you really have to consider is to insulate both ends of the reverse loop, as it will have its own power, and to ensure that the length of the reverse loop section is long enough to hold the trains you want to run through it. There is one Auto Reverser that is very good and very easy to install but am darned if I can think of the make. When I remember, I'll post you a link for it. Okay found it, a link for the wiring of a PSX-AR Auto Reverser: http://i.imgur.com/GjG80iH.jpg
Ok, my only confusion was on the double main. As soon as you put the crossover in, that creates a reversing section. My point is that it is actually easier to treat the two loops as the reversing sections,just as in your first diagram, and not the area of the crossover. Draw it out with both rails indicated, and you will understand why I say this. (Yes, I am leaving this as an exercise for the reader)
Soldering 12 or 14 gauge wire is difficult at best, especially from under a layout. And then those joints have to be insulated with tape that never stays in place after a long period of time or shrink tubing. After nearly 45 years of layout construction and thousands of solder joints I was introduced to the idea of using suitcase connectors. I find these way easier to use and have had no problems with the connections. Being in an inside situation they do not fail like they might under a car hood or exposed to outside elements. Be sure to get the size correct for the gauge wire you are using. Also as others have mentioned, using terminal blocks are a great organizer and time saver. Several sections of track feeders can be placed on these terminal blocks and fed from the buss wire. If a feeder gets reversed by accident, it is much easier to reverse. It is also my opinion that more than one buss should be used. I have several under my layout. Power for track, power for turnout motors, power for lighting, power for signaling and don't forget power for reverse sections of track. I don't think I read how large of a layout that you intend on having. The bigger the layout the more important this is. If you are building a small layout this is probably not necessary. I have been able to run all of my accessories from an old dc dual power pack. I am able to adjust the light output from my signals using the variable dc output. And my switch motors from the fixed dc terminal. I use the ac output for building lighting. This is a safe power source. If more power is needed I will find another used power source. My layout is digital command controlled with about 200 feet of mainline. And as a side note, keep all wiring labelled and color coded as best as possible. Good luck, and enjoy.
