Yes, I know all of that. My photo showed the Kato close coupling coupler that some of us have used to reduce the silly wide coupling distance between Kato F units (which is much better than the ludicrous wide coupling distance between IRM F units). I explained that in my post. I've dealt with all the Kato couplers. Again, I know that, but when you receive your couplers from Kato and go to install them, you'll find out what I'm talking about. You'll assemble the two halves and then insert the coupler and rotate it 90 degrees prior to installing the cover and then spring. You don't install the coupler over the post. You install the coupler and then install the cover, which includes the post engaging the hole in the two coupler halves. I was just trying to help you out.
I know but the cover comes off toward the top, right? There seems to be not enough room with the truck mounted for the cover to come off. I appreciate the help. I'll see when the couplers get here. Doug
The couplers came today and I got the rear one installed. It really wasn't very difficult. The rear truck came right off so I had access to the clip for the coupler. I held the two parts of the coupler together with my MT tweezers (MT to the rescue, again) while installing the coupler into the pocket and installed the clip with the post into the coupler and snapped into the pocket/truck. Installed the spring, reinstalled the truck (snapped into place) and - done! Now to couple the FP7 to some cars! Doug
While not for an F unit truck, this is an actual Kato instruction sheet from years ago: Kato Coupler Install by NorsemanJack posted Mar 11, 2021 at 5:55 PM Some may recognize this from when the Corrugated cars came out with a less reliable knuckle coupler configuration, and Kato first went to the cover plate configuration. Not sure if Charlie still hangs out here, but he could likely fill in some of the backstory.
That's the way this was except I just lowered the coupler into the box straight from the top in its horizontal position. The opening there wasn't quite wide enough but it took hardly any pressure at all to get it to drop in. Actually, none of that was my main concern. It was not wishing to remove the shell, front coupler, and all that just to get the truck/cover/clip off and I didn't have to. Doug
Glad to hear that you got it fixed. I still don't understand why a "new" locomotive would come without a rear coupler, but that is obviously between you and the seller. I only shared the Kato instruction sheet (and my earlier guidance of same) assuming that you would want to understand what the manufacturer recommended as the proper installation procedure.
I appreciate it. I'm sure this loco had a coupler on the rear as a new loco but was missing when I received it. The spring was still in the pocket. The seller claimed he didn't look at it and assumed it was complete, which may be true. Anyway, he gave me a substantial partial refund and the loco, representative of so many I saw as a kid, looks great. It was otherwise new. So, all is good. Doug
To get close coupling between Kato F units I either use the Unimate short shank or these. I usually run A-B-B-A so don't need automatic coupling functions.
Does this affect the radius of curves you can use? I've got my eye on the upcoming B&O F7 A&B set and would like to use the close coupling like you have, but was wondering how/if it impacted performance.
It would affect minimum track radius, but by/to how much? For coupling concerns, raw curvature is seldom the issue to pop up first. The tangent-curve transition will likely cause problems before sheer radius gets you, if not properly eased.
My tightest radius in Kato Unitrak is about 13 1/2 inch or 348 cm. No problems at all on that. The F units have a very short wheel base. Putting two sections of Kato R348-45 in an "S" curve is no problem either.
Much more on close coupling alternatives here: N scale close coupling alternatives | TrainBoard.com - The Internet's Original
Nice pic! That's roughly equivalent to a transition from straight, directly to a 7-1/2" curve, with no easement! Short, 4-axle locos like these are very forgiving. As long as you pull short cars behind them! And as long as you don't want to back up a long string of 'em (or uphill), truck-mounted couplers are more forgiving than body-mounted ones. And a lot depends on how much swing the coupler/box allows.
