N scale "What's on your workbench?"

If only I had the electronic knowledge to build one...I would be happier then a pig in mud !. Like you alluded to...the Accutrack II Speedometer one is scarcer then hens teeth to find...

 

Looks a lot like my old 64 notchback. I'm a Ford man, but once owned a '67 Camaro. This got a miniature tribute in a street on a friend's model railroad.

 

The 'Curved SpeedTrap' speedometer is done and the print files are up on Thingiverse.com. The 'Straight SpeedTrap' speedometer should be done in a day or so and those print files should also then be up.


SpeedTrap software is finished and seems to work fine.

Click the image above or ( HERE ) to see it in action.

The print files are up on thingiverse.com ( HERE ).

For the whole build of this speedometer go ( HERE ).

Sumner

 

I started working on this Rix Products bridge. It looks like a pretty easy kit. I’m thinking of using it on a T-Trak module but may use it on my layout. It’s most likely that it will go on a module.

 

In addition to working adding step lights I have been adding in marker lights. Got my Tamiya clear red today so I was able to close up off this car.

Uses a single LED routed through two fiber pipes. It has 2 100 uf capacitors in it so there is no flicker.

The low light camera really picks up the light leaks. In person it looks better. Might decide to go back later and paint some of the inside black.

 

Those lights turned out great, very nicely done.

 

This. When tested, perfect, unplugged it, put it on the layout ad nada. Apparently broke the end of one of the wires and stripping the insulation is proving to be a challenge

 

If it's magnet wire, run the tip of the wire through a blob of hot solder. It will burn off the coating and tin the wire at the same time.

 

If it's regular insulated wire and just in a difficult spot, try heating a hobby knife with a soldering iron and use the hot knife tip to remove plastic insulation.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

 

If you are doing a bunch at one time I would try a solder pot so a simple dip into the pot will do the trick. I plan to use one on my next multi track feeder install.

 

I use a lighter, don't use it long or get close to the wire, it gets hot quick, but works great for those WS tiny wires!

 

This magnet wire has insulation that is solderable and acts like a flux, no need to scrape it off.



Another source ( HERE ).

Sumner

 

A combo of this

and this

did the trick.

Thanks all for the tips.

 

This is a good tip too. Definitely going to try it on regular wire next time I need to strip some.

 

@nscalestation do you remember where you got the fire engine?

 

Not a project, but a new toy:



A generous fellow club member was looking for a home for his previous resin 3D printer. With the recent death of Shapeways, there's no time like the present to take matters into my own hands!

Now I'm just waiting on a bottle of water-washable resin. The resin that was included is a VERY tough engineering resin that I suspect will be great for gears, but it's a real pain to work with, and makes my home smell like a new car from hell.

 

Nice, doesn't look that big based on the pint(?) of alcohol next to it. Surprised at the foot print.

 

Yep, it's maybe 8" square, with a build screen just large enough to print an average N scale diesel shell in one piece.

 

Quick update. With almost no practice I successfully turned this:



Into this:



Clearly I have some dialing in to do But at least it's proof that I can create something the printer can (attempt to) print!

 

I am looking forward to seeing/hearing about your experience with this for N scale projects. I am considering a 3D printer (again) and was just looking at this brand online before logging in to TrainBoard. Not sure if resin or filament is best but the print detail of this resin unit looked pretty good.