Lol. If you contact your favorite train shop and have them get you Micro Engineering 65-139, Gas Station, you'll get everything shown here. It's a kit I've had floating around that I figured I would build and probably sell at some point. For $25, it's a bargain of parts.
In the process of learning the Do's and Dont's of 3d printing I ended up with a few Mis-prints. Now I'm figuring out ways to use the parts and not throw stuff away. Made one truck out of two. View attachment 267150
Thanks and I won't be copying it and putting files up. I wouldn't do that to someone else's project if it is commercial or I don't have permission. Still might use the overall idea at some point and make it more 'mine'. One thing that is a little strange to me being somewhat of a welder is the number of tanks for such a small place unless they were also a welding gas distributor. I have a single oxygen and acetylene tank but two tanks for my mig welder and two for my tig welder. I keep two of the later (don't use the former much) since I'm in a small town and sometimes they don't have a tank to swap and if that happens I could wait two weeks so they could exchange my tank with their supplier. Didn't want that happening so doubled up on the mig and tig tanks. If that was my small station I might put up a sign on the side "Welding Supplies" , Sumner
Yeah, I’ve seen enough copied parts before. JnJ was famous for that. I might have to think about the sign. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Been adding parts to my Bachmann Plymouth Switcher rebuilds and decided to do away with the white stripes on the green one. All the switchers will get yellow safety stripes. 100_0032-1 by John Moore posted Apr 1, 2023 at 1:53 PM I have had the mechanisms on the track for break in and I am slowly adding lead weights. Here I have bent the lead over the curved front part. 100_0033-2 by John Moore posted Apr 1, 2023 at 1:53 PM Two thin pieces of sheet lead have been laminated to the shell roofs 100_0037-5 by John Moore posted Apr 1, 2023 at 3:10 PM The original weights have been reinstalled and some sheet lead cut and fit around the mechanism. 100_0036-4 by John Moore posted Apr 1, 2023 at 3:10 PM Next up is to install headlights on the cabs. Right now I am listening to the pleasing hum of little motors and the click clack of wheels over rail joints as I am doing more break in runs with all three mechanisms pulling 21 cars at a nice 9.2 volt usage.
It may be the size of a banana and the color of a banana, but it's no banana! This U50 arrived with corrosion on the frame and motor rendering it inoperative. A wire brush and some Barkeeper's Friend got everything ship-shape, and now it buzzes along like new. Still have to do something about the awful yellow color, though
I'll be following this real close but probably won't be able to replicate it. My favorite loco for some reason and I have .... ... 3 of the beautiful yellow ones and one of those 'black' one's and 7 of the ones that never were. 2 Santa Fe, and one each of Con Rail, BN, Amtrak, BNSF and a Chessie. I really need to sell some of those 7, at least half of them if I can figure out how to divide 7 by 2. I finally convinced my self to not buy any more (at least for now). 2 of the Yellow one's and the 1 black one now have decoders ( HERE ) and I've got an ESU LokSound that will go in the remaining yellow one. They actually run well with the decoder and no other tuneup's on them. So what are your plans?? Sumner
One of my favorites, too! Back in another life I started detailing another U50 that had a shell that had been through the wringer (broken handrails, missing parts, cracks, the works….) I made some progress on upgrading that one into one of SP's three before I had to put everything into storage. I think I can do better this time around. Then I'll have to re-upgrade the other U50 to match!
A little TLC works wonders on older rolling stock. I've lowered the ride height, added body-mount couplers, and painted the bare-plastic underframes of the car and trailer. Only things left to do are replace the missing brake wheel and weather it all up.
I always think Con Cor vowed to have each different U50 or Turbine a different yellow. If you can't find suitable paint I have formulas for the two UP colours in water based acrylic. I have tried the grey and made it a shade darker than Kato's grey. You can use the formula as a starting point if you want to match it exactly. Sorry I don't have anything painted yellow yet. Where the formula says "parts" that means 0.01 grams. I use small digital scales to measure the paint. 1 drop of paint typically weighs 0.03 grams. UP Armour Yellow 1000 parts AK Interactive Volcanic Yellow. AK-11042 50 parts AK Interactive Light Orange AK-11077 UP Harbour Mist Grey 320 parts Basalt Grey. AK-11021 260 parts Grey Green. AK-11016 80 Parts Yellow. AK-11044. (don't use the volcanic yellow) Use Microscale clear over the top of all colours once dry. I use undiluted clear sprayed at 45Psi to get a smooth finish.
Thats pretty impressive ! The brake hoses are the smallest I've seen. What do you use to fix the grab rails to the body ?
Thanks! The hoses and grabs are BLMA items. They're glued in from behind with a dab of super glue inside the shell.
A friend has been (slowly) selling off his excess rolling stock at shows our group brings our layout to, but among the stock, a group of Atlas articulated autoracks never sell. He gave me one this weekend, with the condition that I get creative (read: not prototypical) and make it cool. I like the idea a lot, as I model around 1980 and as it is, this is well outside of my era. I happened to find a shot of an early covered autorack from 1973 decorated for N&W (and DT&I), and decided maybe around the same time they tried out an articulated rack too. I think after decals and some weathering, it should shape up pretty cool! And ever the car salesman, my friend demonstrated the car by running it at the front and then rear of his train, at full speed. This thing handles great! As the car started: Test fitting after painting the ends/roof silver, and the body black. I thought about repainting the frame black too, but I think yellow works, like standard autoracks with the 'flatcar' portion in TTX yellow. And the prototype this is loosely based off of. Definitely an oddball, especially for 1973!
First stage of laying track. I think I picked one of the hardest places to start... All code 55 #10 straight turnouts made with the help of FastTracks jigs.
I am joining a new club who uses the Kato wiring system for the module wiring. Since I use the Anderson Powerpole method, I had to build adapters.
