Charles, go with the last plan. If you screw down the track it is very easy to make changes later on. That's one of the advantages of T-TRAK, the ability to change things around. Try the track as planned for several months with the structures just placed on the modules or held down by some light use of white glue. Then when you find an area which you feel needs some change, it is not hard to make the change. The plan looks like it would be fun to operate on as you can run around the outer loop and switch on the inner loop. later, Craig
Charles, what's the overall dimensions? I went back a few pages and couldn't find it. I like it so much that I might "borrow" your plan.
Craig, that's the one I'm going with. I don't want to be overwhelmed so I am initially going to do the front double module first and get it completed. It shouldn't take very long to do that one. Then I'll proceed with the front triple module and just work my way around. MK, I have (2) standard end cap modules, (2) triple modules, and (2) double modules that will all fit on a 30" x 96" banquet table. Overall the dimensions of just the modules with the track in place is approximately 28 27/32" x 90 5/32". If you use AnyRail™ track planning software I would be more than happy to PM you the file. Regards, Charles
Charles, If you get the time, I would like the file for your modules. I really like it. I might borrow some of your modules.
Thanks for the offer Charles but I don't have AnyRail. But I can figure it out with the numbers you gave me.
Since there has been some interest in the track plan, attached is an image with the part numbers for those who don't have AnyRail™. Regards, Charles
finally adding some scenery to an inside corner-some laminated foam, followed by rough shaping with hot wire tools, then some rasping to smooth the contours... ~Bruce
..and added some detail with the dremel...chucked some cutting bits and created the rivulets on an exposed sedimentary layered 'cut'. after basic painting, I'll airbrush 'layers' of the sedimentary structure. Lots more to do...
Charles, one big advantage of the T-TRAK concept is its simplicity...AND economy. I understand wanting to 'work out' a plan so as to avoid pitfalls in a layout, especially one that may be 'permanent'; on a basement 'empire' model railroad it's real difficult to change things once benchwork has been built and track is down... T-TRAK helps you avoid a lot of 'permanent' pitfalls AND, in the situation where you're not happy with a T-TRAK module/track plan/theme that you've already built, 1) you haven't invested a ton of time or money 2) you can pull up and start over (on a much smaller scale than with a large layout) 3) you can simply build another module to take its place (I am not a proponent of making my Unitrack 'removeable'-although I use the Maerklin mini screws, I like to ballast my track and consider it 'permanent' once I do) Again, I do believe you've received good advice on your many revisions of a track plan (Especially Terry Nathan's), but there is such a thing as 'over thinking' and agonizing over the 'perfect' plan (btw, there is no such thing-in fact, every scale, every trackplan, and, yes, T-TRAK itself is a compromise between everything that everyone would like to incorporate into their 'perfect' model railroad...) I would strongly suggest avoiding 'worrying' over revisions and plans...by this point, it appears that you've explored just about every possibility except actually setting up track and running a train or trains on it...it's at that point you'll actually decide what you want and what you don't...but at some point, it would behoove you to 'let go' of the plans, and get to building modules, and testing track arrangements (unless you the type that enjoys only the aspect of planning a model railroad without actually ever building one-yes, I know many 'armchair' model railroaders). Another GREAT aspect of T-TRAK, using the Kato Unitrack, is the ability to 'test' different track arrangements, actually run trains on the trackage, and then, quickly, 'undo' that arrangement and try another, BEFORE actually screwing down any track arrangement. I consider this stage to be the best indicator of whether you like the track plan or not: actually seeing trains run on the track, seeing that they track well, and seeing that they 'look' good/'right' to your eye! All the track plans, revisions, etc. in the world won't be able to duplicate what this stage does (and, yes, I know some software actually allows you to 'view' an animated train run around your 3D trackplan...not the same, I guarantee) If you make it to the Pensacola Show on Dec 2-3, definitely hang with us a little (bring a train to run!), and you can ask questions of some of our other members too (we all have different ideas on what works for each of us...) My personal philosophy, in this regard, is what 'looks right' to me...Does it look like a model railroad scene? Do trains look 'right' running through the module/scene/trackwork? Does it look 'right' to the average viewer? Those are the things that I try to make a priority with the modules I build... for me, secondary things for me to consider would be the possibility of a few operations, but, unless we set up privately, we find VERY little time to 'operate' during an actual public show-our full attention is usually occupied with the public's questions and explaining t-TRAK, N scale, model railroading, etc... Respectfully, ~Bruce
I'm also a member of the Railwire thread, and they have one of the 'travelling car' threads going on. But the reason I'm posting back here is that I did a couple shots of my West Hickory T-trak module (triple) using the real photo backdrops, some add-in halogen key lighting.... and, well, see for yourself. I just want to encourage people considering T-trak that these make dandy photo dioramas as well when you're not necessarily all linked up to a hundred other ones. T-trak has a reputation as an entry-level 'runner' design rather than a prototype modeler standard like OneRail, and that's not entirely fair. The only thing I've really done any different (apparently) is to make the front edge a fairly steep embankment, as on my prototype spot it slopes right into the river. That's a rather happy accident when you're doing photos like this. And, you can get the camera down to 'eye level' fairly easily with the module geometry. That module front edge spec is not written in stone as long as the setback and elevation remain constant. In this area (Western PA) it seems like every railroad followed a creek or a riverbank, notched into a hillside. I'm only using Kato track for the connectors at the ends, but other than that, it's fairly stock T-trak geometry. Use of the low folding tables makes high-angle viewing rather normal in the T-trak world, but see what you can do when you can also shoot from railhead level. It's a lot easier to get close-in, low-level shots. If I had any further doubts about working in this standard design envelope, this kind of cinches it for me.
Randall, I couldn't agree with you more...they do make very handy photo dioramas!...it's been fun challenging 'old school' scale snobs' attitudes about T-TRAK (I no longer post over at The Railwire for those reasons...)
Thanks Bruce for your insight, this will be the final revision on paper before construction begins. I am no longer agonizing over the plan and am looking forward to begin construction. The target date for beginning construction is around the 3rd or 4th of January due to trips we have planned. Any changes that need to be made will occur as I am actually constructing it. All of the track is Kato Unitrack except the small yard area which is Atlas Code 80 track. Since this is primarily a home layout I decided to rotate it 180° to have access to the small yard at the front plus all of the turnouts are now in the front for easy access since they are going to be manual throws for now. I also would like to add that once construction begins I will post pictures here or you can follow the progress on my blog at http://woodlandcentral.blogspot.com/. Regards, Charles
Charles- Following this topic... I notice the three tracks at bottom the of the most current vies show three of the road crossing tracks pieces. But they seem to overlap on the road portion?
Yeah I know. I have never owned these pieces so I'm not sure how they would work out. The odds are that once I start I will forego those pieces and create my own crossing. Regards, Charles
I see 11 road crossings. You will be a lot happier once you have the art of making your own crossings. Not hard to do really..and they look a lot better JMO !
The Kato road crossings come with a piece that fits between the track so that you have a solid surface between the track. This piece works with 33mm spacing. A different spacing requires you make a wider piece yourself. So if you have 3 road crossings on 33mm centers, you use 2 of the approach pieces and 2 of the straight in between pieces. The Kato road crossings only work on straight track, any curved track crossings you have to make your own.
I forgot to tell you how I make my own road crossings. I use .020 Evergreen sheet styrene cut to the size of my road, I use 10' or 12' lanes with 6' for parking, so a 2 lane road through town would be 36' wide with parking on both sides, 30' wide with parking on 1 side and 24' wide with no on street parking. I place the cut to width piece under the curved or straight track and mark it with a pencil, then I cut the road on that mark, it will fit tight against the rail. Between the rails, I use 5-6 pieces of .06. x .060 styrene strips which I glue down with Testors liquid cement. Paint the strips a RR tie brown. You can also place a piece of the .060 x .060 strip along the outside of the rail and butt the road piece to that. I you feel the .060 is too high, use .040 for the strips.
If these modules are intended to be actual T-TRAK modules, then I would advise keeping as many Kato crossing pieces on them as possible...the Kato crossing pieces are rerailers and have been pretty handy in a setup. they help to rerail dragging equipment and have prevented some potentially hairy derailments at shows. I prefer to make 'nicer', more scale crossings with all manner of material, but I came around to the Kato crossings, after seeing their benefit during larger setups, especially those with locos and equipment were not quite up to the standard that I prefer all my equipment to be. when I first started building modules, I was advised by those with a lot of T-TRAK experience, to try and have as many Kato re-railer/crossing pieces as possible, for the reasons stated above. I resisted this advice as I preferred the look of more 'scale like' crossings. I've since been proven 'wrong' in my initial assessment and now try to use them whenever I have a road crossing; I simply spend a lot of time trying to make them look more prototypical. ~Bruce
