MTH 40-1008 Problem

AlfonsoDeMusser Nov 22, 2022

  1. AlfonsoDeMusser

    AlfonsoDeMusser New Member

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    Brand new to the train game so this is my first train, track, everything. Have a simple oval, a C&O 4-6-0 Baldwin (https://shop.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=491_515_715&products_id=5359), a K-Line Coach & Diner B&O RR and trying to get the coupler to work.

    So I guess the first question is, does this arrangement work with a coupler? I tried wiring the 40-1008 to the back of my Z1000 as it showed online and that didn't work either. Any advice pointers would be appreciated.
     
  2. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    I am familiar with older three rail/tinplate, but not this. I know the Z-1000 is your transformer/power supply. As to the 40-1008, re you talking about a remote uncoupling device? Can you post a photo?
     
  3. AlfonsoDeMusser

    AlfonsoDeMusser New Member

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  4. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    OK. Exactly what I thought. These used to, and as pictured I would believe still do, operate from track power. When your transformer is off, (the engine is not moving), this track is off. Nothing will happen. Zero volts.

    You must wire it to a continuously on/hot source. You should be able to do this by changing just one wire.

    Can you post a picture of how you connected to the Z-1000?

    Also check your black (common) wire. Be certain it connects to the track to feed the outer rail.
     
  5. AlfonsoDeMusser

    AlfonsoDeMusser New Member

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    There were really no instructions other than the brown wire was first. I then just put the 3 black wires in sequence pretty much the way they were in the ribbon cable.
     
  6. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    For the uncoupler there should be wires 1, 2, skip, 4 (brown wire). The skipped wire connects to fixed output voltage "hot" on your power supply.

    But on the power supply, you should also have two wires to the track, from variable voltage terminals which control the train speed. The black one I mentioned, is a "common", ("Com") which connects to the track "lock-on" as it is known, to feed one or the other of the two outer rails. the other connects to the "lock-on" to feed the middle rail.
     
  7. AlfonsoDeMusser

    AlfonsoDeMusser New Member

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    Here's the instructions from the back. I also found this drawing which is pretty much what's on the back and what you appear to be saying. The problem is I'm losing you on the whole common/lock-on connection. I tried to connect the 3rd wire to hot but still nothing seemed to happen. The only two wires I have from the Z1000 are the standard ones from the variable voltage terminals.

    So are you saying that I need to run another wire from the COM on the back of the Z1000 to the same wire on the variable supply that connects to the outer rail?
     

    Attached Files:

  8. acptulsa

    acptulsa TrainBoard Member

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    Connect the track only as per the instructions, just the way Boxcab outlined. There is another output on the Z-1000 marked 14V. Connect that to the third "skip" wire, and the accessory should operate even when you've reduced track voltage and train speed to zero.
     
    BNSF FAN likes this.
  9. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    No. I am trying to be certain you have the wires correctly placed at the lock-on. If not, the 40-1008 won't operate properly.

    Variable voltage runs the train. Constant voltage operates the accessory. Two separate functions.

    If I was there in person, I could wire that up for you in moments. :(
     
    BNSF FAN likes this.
  10. AlfonsoDeMusser

    AlfonsoDeMusser New Member

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    I really appreciate the help and completely understand the frustration of knowing you could fix it - I do IT stuff and run into that all the time.

    Here's what I have wired - which is what you're saying and I want to assure you I have it correct - for the Z1000. The back Red/Black connections wire to the coupler (not sure exactly the proper name for it) that is connected to the track. There's only one way for that to connect. That takes care of the variable voltage connection to middle and outside. And yes, train works forward, backward and all.

    The skip wire that you want just connects to the 14V HOT on the brick itself and nothing needs to be connected to the COM since, in this case, the track is picking up the common from the variable voltage connection.

    We good so far? So, if I have everything wired properly, how does the coupler work? Should the cars be placed with the magnet in the center of the car or the couplers directly over the magnet? Is there a special type of car that this works on or are all cars capable of using the coupling track? With everything wired as above, if I place the passenger car on the coupling track with the magnet in the middle and throw the switch, shouldn't the coupler open? I get nothing which is why I came here.

    Thanks again!
     

    Attached Files:

    BoxcabE50 likes this.
  11. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    The device which connects to your track, as I used the term in previous responses, is known as a "lock-on". Your train will run perfectly, no matter which way your wires are connected to that lock-on. The issue comes when you wish to power your uncoupling ramp.

    Not all cars come with working couplers. Some of the least expensive models come with dummy couplers. I do not believe this applies to what you have.

    As it comes wired from the factory, your uncoupling ramp will only work when you have power to your train. What you are doing, is converting the ramp (only) to a constantly ON power source. That way you can spot a car on it, stop the train from moving, uncouple and pull ahead. Or if you spot an operating car, (a side dump car, a log car that dumps, etc), without the train trying to move. The button in the middle of the track operates most couplers equipped to do so. Some of the old ("Post-War") cars had shoes instead, which makes it necessary to have those additional rails in between middle and outer rails. Those are also the rails which work many action cars.

    Those two silver screws on your power supply are the ones you must be using, for the constant voltage. The power supply is the little black square (sometimes known as a "wall wart") which plugs into your 110vac outlet.
     
  12. AlfonsoDeMusser

    AlfonsoDeMusser New Member

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    Got it! The only thing I'm still unsure of is the COM on the back of the power supply; the one picture that I posted above say it connects to the lock-on. So I need to run a wire from there to the lock-on outer rail - which from what I can tell is the black side - is that correct?

    Going to hopefully putting it up around the tree this week some time so I'll report back hopefully with success :)
     
  13. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Yes. Correct.

    I sure want to hear back of your having success. Running a train around the tree at Christmas is great fun. A wonderful memory. I did it as a youth, and have done it many times as an adult, as well. Just pure and simple pleasure.
     

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