Modular Shelf Layout Construction

A question- MDF is easy to work with, but I prefer to overbuild where I can. Have you ever tried your technique with plywood? Home Despot will cut that too, and if you pick through the stacks a bit you can find some that is pristine.

 

I would say that even MDF of the dimensions I am using is significantly overdoing it from a strength perspective. Were I to deviate from MDF anywhere, it would only be the top; as the side pieces are where the uniformity is truly appreciated. This is one of those areas where there are several schools of thought that may work equally well for different individuals. I stick with the MDF for the reasons originally stated - uniformity and easy to work with. Uniformity is the #1 reason in my book.

Jack

[ 25. August 2004, 04:55: Message edited by: NorsemanJack ]

 

MDF is heavier and weaker than plywood. It would be a poor choice for modules twice as big as mine.

 

So far this weekend, I've completed a bit more forming of the foam and also attached the rear facia board. This is pretty standard stuff.

First, I clamped a piece of pre-cut 1/4" masonite a bit larger than the module to the back side and used a felt marker to trace the profile from the module.



Next, it's to the garage for the sabre saw and a bit of flat black spray paint.




Then back to the train room to glue the finished profile board onto the module. I use the same Liquid Nails panel adhesive for this that I used to glue the box together.
I like to clamp / sandwich the masonite between the module and another piece of flat material.


The result looks pretty good. The masonite mates up well with the module and gaps are very minimal.





Note: I haven't done the front facia yet, because I haven't been able to finish the roadway yet.

 

Yeah, I've been wondering about that as well......

To this point, the module construction is pretty much science. By that I mean accurate dimensions, a somewhat straightforward "analytical" translation of a prototype area and some mature construction/wiring techniques. This is the part I really enjoy. Scenery, OTOH, requires a shift from the left brain to the right brain. That's where things get a bit bumpy in my modeling efforts. That's probably why I've built nine of these modules previously and only two ever received scenery.

I will share that in the past I've used less foam and more "standard" approaches (i.e. plaster cloth with a finish coat). With my shift to focus on foam, I'm a bit uncertain regarding how I'll proceed. Based on some past experiences, I'm tentatively planning to use a bit of vinyl spackle to finish up the terrain followed by a good coat of black latex paint. I don't spray glue any more. I've brushed on thinned Aleene's tacky glue and sprinkled on turf with pretty good results. Aleene's is like white glue in that it will re-liquify with application of water. That makes it a good adhesive for turf. Beyond that, I'll just be experimenting. Suggestions??

 

In my experience, a "good coat of latex paint" is an excellent adhesive in itself; adding a layer of glue is redundant. Case in point, on my latest module:

http://members.aol.com/battletekker/yshokgrass2.jpg

I have another module that's about six years old, done with the same technique, and the grass is still sticking just fine.

The particular "grass" I use, by the way, is a mixture of Life-Like green sawdust (is this still available?) and Woodland Scenics Blended Turf foam. It gives a little more texture and variety than pure foam (the sawdust-to-foam mixture varies subtly with the thickness of the paint). The sawdust fades somewhat over time, reducing the kelly green to a more realistic hue.

 

As I'm sure many of you can relate to; I've had a few weeks of pretty slow progress. Here are two photos of my latest progress. The balsa highway base is complete. I've also added the front facia board and used spackle to create most of the final terrain. I've been using the Home Depot spackle that comes in a one quart tub for $3. That's pretty cheap and it is neat and easy to work with. I like the fact that I can pop the tub open and do a little more work any time I have a few minutes, without having to mess with plaster. I still have to add a finish coat around the West end of the module (where the road crosses the tracks) as well as along the front facia board.





Sorry about the poor photos. My digital camera batteries died after three shots, so I didn't have many photos to choose from.

 

NorsemanJack,

I like how smooth you were able to carve your hills into foam. What type of knife did you use? I have always had the impression that foam is good for building up steep, large mountains and hills, but you have illustrated that foam works well for even the slightest of elevation variations. In addition, did you have any issues with the spackle wanting to crack? I have thought about using either spackle or drywall joint compound, but have heard that if you apply it too thick that it will crack when it dries.

HuskerN

 

I formed the foam mostly with a $5 Stanley "sure form" rasp (small rounded head about 1" x 2") followed by course sand paper. Surprisingly, the course sandpaper really works great.

I haven't detected any signs of spackle cracking, even where it overlaps the profile boards. I tested some samples and put them through several weeks of temperature cycling (i.e. I left them in my Arizona garage during the summer and they seemed to be very stable. I even whacked one with a hammer a few times, and the spackle just cracked a little. Flaking was not an issue.

 

Neat thread! This is coming along nicely. Thanks for the progress shots.

HuskerN,

Joint compound will crack if applied thickly. I apply it thickly, then I just go back and use a much lighter coat to fill the cracks. Sometimes I don't fill the cracks, as they sometimes resemble erosion and runoff. So far, I have used 3 5-gallon buckets of it. I did a lot of drywall in college, so I like the stuff, especially the working time.

 

This left brain - right brain thing is what concerns me the most too.... I've been an IT guy for over 20 years, so building something is right down my alley...measure it twice, cut it, dry fit, paint, attach....purely logical progression. Then I look at a bag of ballast or grass and think "Oh Sh_t, now what?".

Luckily, the wife is a pretty accomplished artist, so at elast one of us has that side of the brain working. I might just get her to tell me where to put stuff and I'll do the donkey work Then she can clean up with the details.

 

Very well put!!

 

I'm calling this the "black box phase".

It's flat black latex on the top and a finish coat of flat black spray around the perimeter. I'll be masking the sides and bottom edges from now on to protect against scratches and scenery materials.

I've also added mounting points for mini-toggle switches in two location on the front facia. Had I used 1/8" masonite for the profile boards, I could have mounted them flush. As it is, I drilled out 3/4" holes and glued 1/8" masonite squares on top.