Actually, that module in the photos now weighs 19 pounds (I just weighed it). That amount of "bulk" is helpful in giving the layout some stability when resting on the shelf brackets. The four foot straights and corners weigh less.
Jack, I look forward to the additional photos. I was concerned about the Dremel-cut "gap" between my bridge section and the main layout. It never derailed a single car or engine -- not even a Kato SD80. Ha! They just derailed elsewhere. I had one spot where one of my SD80s derailed 7 times out of ten. The track was dead level and in gauge as were the wheels on that SD80. Much as I liked my SD80s and SD90s, I sold them all. I also used MDF as the top of my conventional benchwork (with 1" foam over the MDF). It was a bit heavy and if I were to emulate your techniques on my next layout, I think I might make my box out of fir or pine 1" x 3" to make it a bit lighter. Once I had the MDF pieces level, I sure had a stable, smooth, and continuous base for the foam (and subroadbed).
Here are a few more progress photos. First, I've laid out the rough locations of road and track on the top surface. The first shows the University road intersection (cars shown for scale). The second shows the entire module (looking East) with the C&NW track crossing at the far end. You'll notice that I've drilled some 1/2" holes under the track in several locations. These are for feeder wire routing when the track is attached. I like to drill one big hole down the middle and punch the wires through the WS foam roadbed. Having the locations of the feeders established, I then did some preliminary electrical work on the bottom. That's 16 gauge lamp cord. The insulation on the lamp cord is only separated for attachment to the terminal block, so each is essentially a continuous wire. I use four main wires through my modules: a) track 1 b) track 2 c) constant 12V DC d) AC I'm not sure if I'll need the AC for anything, but it's easier to include it up front than to retrofit later.
The final electrical step at this point is to terminate the main wires running through the module. I use simple crimp-on connectors. For the right end of the module, there are female connectors for all but the AC line, which is male. The other end is, of course, the opposite. [ 09. August 2004, 03:55: Message edited by: NorsemanJack ]
Jack, Glad to see you here! Are you still running your other modules? May I suggest that you get a Rail Image album going and post any and all photos of your previous and present work for everyone to see? You know me from that 'other' group you mentioned, still arm-charing it, but TrainBoard helps me keep my sanity. Your first module efforts are still my favorites. Anyway, look forward to seeing your 'new' modules too. twalton 'AKA' 2slim
Hi Todd - Your post reminded me that we still have a Yahoo group focused on modules such as these. I just checked and it looks like there have been 8 messages in the past 12 months. Pretty dead..... I think "yahoo groups" are quickly becoming obsolete due to the advent of web-based forums such as Trainboard. Even my "nbay" list has been a bit slow of late. Thanks for your kind comments regarding my previous modules. I'll keep the photos of both current and past efforts coming. The folks here seem to be pretty kind wrt my photography "skills" Take care, Jack
Boy, these pictures make me homesick. I grew up near Kankakee, Illinois, and commuted to college along Route 50 for two years. The stretch of Route 50 paralleling the IC mainline between Kankakee and Monee looks exactly like this. It's only interrupted twice in about 30 miles, as the road swings away from the tracks briefly while passing through Manteno and Peotone, to allow room for buildings between the track and the road. I'm anxious to see how your modules turn out!
I found a few more good on-line resources to use. This is a link to the "Terraserver" aerial photograph. I thought these had become unavailable without paid subscriptions, but apparently not: Aerial Photograph There is also a link to the USGS topographical map of the area: Topo Map This is particularly useful, as I can see a slight cut for both the road and tracks in one of my photos, and this map clearly shows the relative location. It is, I believe, located where the irregular outline with the "870" intersects the road and rails. I would imagine that these links may be useful to anyone modeling a prototype location.
I have a bit more progress on the module to share. If you've been reading along, you'll recall that I've been using some internet resources to help guide the terrain development. Is this part of Illinois "rolling hills?" - no. Is it flat? Absolutely not. There are subtle hills throughout, and that presents a bit of a challenge to capture the effect without over-doing it. For operational reliability, I've chosed to keep the tracks absolutely flat. The road, on the other hand, presents a good opportunity to capture some subtle changes. For reasons I won't elaborate on, I decided to use balsa wood to bring the road up to track level and also to provide a nice flat surface for the roadway that is slightly higher than "grade". This first photo shows an overview looking East. The three blocks of pink foam will be carved down to provide very slight hills higher than the roadway and tracks, forming small "cuts" for them to pass through. These can be seen in my prototype photos earlier in the thread and also the USGS topographical map linked to my previous post. Now, working from East to West, here is the area of the C&NW branch-line crossing. I cut the 3/16" balsa into the WS foam roadbed to bring it right up to the ties on the track. Also, you'll see balsa mounting pads for the single target signals as well as the two equimpment cabinets in the area of the crossing. I drill 3/16" holes and install aluminum tubing at this point to later feed the signal wires through. This will be the first (and more minor) of two small hills in US30 as it follows the terrain. I simply put a 1/8" spacer underneath the balsa and clamp it while the adhesive cures. I like the very smooth, subtle effect that it gives as the road rises a scale 20". That block of foam will be filed down so that it is slightly higer than the road surface. This is how the prototype area is configured. The road rises somewhat at the hills, but not to the point of following the natural terrain. Finally, at the West end is the area of the University road crossing. Again, I've installed feeder tubes and mounting pads for the crossing signals. If I can find out the dimensions of the Detail 160 roadway intersection, I'll be able to complete the base for the roadways in this area. Just a note about adhesive: for all items shown (i.e. foam-to-foam, WS roadbed-to-foam, balsa-to-foam) I use a clear siliconized acrylic caulk spread extremely thin with a slightly serrated spatula. I've used this approach for years and found it to be easy to use and reliable. [ 22. August 2004, 01:53: Message edited by: NorsemanJack ]
Jack, Excellent work I''m really enjoying this thread. Once you have finished how many modules do you hope to have in use?
My current room limits me to eight - 4 corners, 2 six foot straights (like the one being built) and 2 four foot straights. The one being built is actually my tenth. Of the others, two have some scenery and the balance are operational but at the pink foam stage. These are "throw away" modules. The investment in non-reusable elements (the MDF, masonite, lamp cord, flex track, etc.) is minimal. In fact, if anyone in the Tucson area wants one of these to goof around with they can have my extras (currently one unfinished corner and, upon completion of this module, an unfinished six foot straight). IMO, the greatest advantage of any modular approach is that we can be running trains while working on the next "section" of the layout (I had a long freight circling the room yesterday as I was working on the module ).
Any reason to not run the side pieces the full length of the MDF and make the end pieces shorter so they fit inside the side pieces? If you're butting the segments end-to-end it would hide the butt-joint between the sides and ends. Also, it isn't too costly to acquire a doweling jig, some dowel centers, and a nice brad-point bit to drill the dowel holes. Doweling jig. $12.99 from Harbor Freight: Dowel centers. Around $5.00: These tools, combined with some inexpensive preformed dowels and some yellow carpenter's glue will give you some amazingly strong, furniture grade joints.
Brett - that joint will be covered up with a 1/4" masonite facia board later on. Also, if I configured this joint as you've suggested, the screw used to reinforce the joint would potentially interfere with the 1/2" holes in the ends used to connect modules together (for some of my module configurations). Thanks for the suggestion. Strength has not been an issue to date, so I'll probably just stick with my current approach for now.
I made some more progress on the terrain today, carving the foam closer to its final form. I may knock those hills down a bit more, but I want to look at it for a few days before doing that. Extruded foam is really nice to work with for things like this. The balsa strips show the the US30 location. I decided to take it outside to get some better lighting (it really isn't THAT heavy.... )
Jack, Looks good, man. I do have a concern though: I recently experimented with using some balsa strips in a storage yard. I wanted the ground to be level with the ties, so I built it up with balsa strips. Everything went well until I glued down the ballast. The balsa absorbed the glue, and it warped pretty badly. You may want to seal the balsa (paint?) before you do too much scenery, to keep from repeating my mistake. Kevin
Thanks for the "lesson learned" Kevin. I'll will definitely paint that balsa prior to using any wet scenery processes.
