Modified Time Saver Layout

Doorgunnerjgs Nov 5, 2016

  1. Doorgunnerjgs

    Doorgunnerjgs TrainBoard Member

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    @logging loco - May try that first, thanks.
    @Sumner - Was thinking along the same lines. I have a two D-cell battery operated one that I may try to convert to wall wart powered one and try that, too!

    Thanks to both of you!
     
  2. logging loco

    logging loco TrainBoard Supporter

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    The chisel would just be to remove glue residue after cutting off the risers
     
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  3. Shortround

    Shortround TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks for the links. I may be able to get the saw locally. Electric cutters I have to travel for so maybe get that from them.
     
  4. Doorgunnerjgs

    Doorgunnerjgs TrainBoard Member

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    A little progress now, got the upper levels of risers removed, but methinks that lower level is gonna be a bear! The chisel won't touch them with any hope of using them again and the hot wire took I currently have can't be modified to cut right at the glue line. I'll either have to forget salvaging current ones or make/purchase a hot wire tool to do the trick.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  5. vince p

    vince p TrainBoard Member

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  6. logging loco

    logging loco TrainBoard Supporter

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    Have you tried a long thin bladed kitchen knife. I have a very old, long bread knife with a scalloped edge that cuts through foam like it was butter.
     
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  7. Shortround

    Shortround TrainBoard Member

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    There are blade type foam cutters as well. I've never seen or used such but 'Harbor Freight' for one has a couple versions. But they would also remove some the foam so, may cause too much damage.
     
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  8. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

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    If you use something that even takes 1/8" off the bottoms uniformly they will still be able to be used again as the slope would remain the same. Maybe you could come up with spacers the same thickness as what was taken off the bottom and use them to replicate the slope as it is now wherever you plan on using it.

    Sumner
     
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  9. SDVike

    SDVike TrainBoard Member

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    I have a saw that is flat that is designed for cutting trim next to a floor. Something like that may work if you have access to one.

    http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--boDqD8ZfFc/UXXnmEQ-JUI/AAAAAAAABTA/z52n1N6y9i0/s1600/Trim+saw+3.JPG


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  10. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

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    Exactly, that is what I mentioned in my first post further up. I think a good choice. It would be very fast.

    I bought one when I laid the floors in our house. Thought I could do it in a week and about a month later was done :(. Long time on my knees and I won't be doing that job again.

    Sumner
     
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  11. SDVike

    SDVike TrainBoard Member

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    I love doing flooring if it wasn’t for the bad back/ knees. Lol.


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  12. BigJake

    BigJake TrainBoard Member

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    Woodworkers use what is called a cranked-neck paring chisel to clean up flat surfaces, or even the bottom of a recess, groove, etc. They are designed to allow the non-bevel side of the chisel to lay flat on a surface without the handle striking that surface.

    You might be able to bend a chisel blade for an xacto knife to work similarly, if you can find a chisel blade long enough. It is best if the business end of the bent blade remains parallel to the handle, for control, but some have a slight angle upward on the handle. Probably boils down to personal preference, availability, price, etc.
     
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  13. BigJake

    BigJake TrainBoard Member

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    That saw would work well, but they mislabeled it as a dovetail saw. It is a flush-cutting saw, and is reversible to allow cutting from either side. The offset handle would make it more difficult for cutting dovetails and other joints accurately. The saw has very low or no "set" on the bottom side of the teeth, so it is easier to avoid cutting the surface to which you are sawing flush.

    There are also Japanese saws that with springy, flexible blades and no set, that will also work very well for a wood surface, but maybe not so well for a foam surface, given the pressure against the surface needed to bend the blade.
     
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  14. Doorgunnerjgs

    Doorgunnerjgs TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks for all the great tips. Much appreciated. Will share what I end up with!
     
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  15. Doorgunnerjgs

    Doorgunnerjgs TrainBoard Member

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    Decided on trying a saw blade first since I had a couple around. Worked pretty well but these fine tooth hacksaw blades take a lot of pressure and cut slowly. May try some coarser ones. Originally tried blue tape to protect my hands, but decided on vise-grips instead which work out pretty good.

    [​IMG]



    Not real fast, about 15 minutes to get this far and not real easy on the arms and hands.

    [​IMG]
     
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  16. Shortround

    Shortround TrainBoard Member

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    Will take some patience and time. We have both in our age group. :unsure:
     
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  17. BigJake

    BigJake TrainBoard Member

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    Visegrips... as close to the universal tool as you can get! If it can't do it, it'll grab onto something that will!
     
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  18. SDVike

    SDVike TrainBoard Member

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    Following this thread has me thinking about when I want to expand my layout. My 5x11 island won’t leave the room in one piece so I either need to build it into the expansion or scrap it. Seeing all your work makes me question my choices. Lol.


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  19. logging loco

    logging loco TrainBoard Supporter

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    Maybe try heating the saw blade with torch and use it like a hot knife. It would take frequent reheating but may be physically easier.
     
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  20. BigJake

    BigJake TrainBoard Member

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    Has anybody used an electric knife (or even one of the electric filet knives) on foam before?

    They are usually flexible enough (especially the latter) to lay flat on a butcher block (to filet & skin fish), but the big handle/motor might interfere with other elements of the layout.
     

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