MAY HAVE FOUND LIQUID SOLDER!

Hey all, I recently asked if anyone knows about/has used 'liquid solder'..Now I inadvertantly may have found it..I was in Radio Shack today and found a product called 'conductive wire glue'..It states : " Provides a highly conductive permanent bond ". Could this be a safe alternative to soldering near plastic ties ? Maybe a number of you already know about this and found it not applicable to MRR rails..Maybe 'perminant' is the drawback or its drying time is..Will test it on a piece of code 83 and some wire when I get home and report back.....

 

Hi

I have used this stuff (or similar to it) to attach decoder wires to an Atlas GP35 body. Still running, so must be okay.

Cheers

 

Mark, the only time I experimented with liquid solder was 50-ish years ago. I tried it with electronic circuits and found that it had higher internal resistance than tin/lead solder. Also it had lower bonding strength than tin/lead. But if you are aware of its shortcomings and use it in applications where higher resistance and lower strength are not a problem, then you should be OK.

 

I don't know anything about this stuff, but don't you think it's probably improved in the last 50-ish years?

 

greetings!

it would seem that the Radio Shack product uses graphite as an electrical conductive element within this glue/liquid solder. I have been trying to investigate just how well graphite conducts electricity, but the scientific data/techinal data is not in my field and beyond my understanding. i would think that the quality of graphite as a conductor would make or break the usefulness of this product. but, it sounds like a good possibility.

i also found, by internet search another product: http://www.amazon.com/Electrically-Conductive-Wire-Glue-Bonds/dp/B000Z9H7ZW/ref=pd_sbs_indust_1
unfortunately i could find no information of its contents and on what basis or element it employs to conduct electricity in its bonding.

i will be interested in hearing what the results are from folks here as soldering has never been my strength!

respectfully,
gary l lake dillensnyder

 

Here's the results so far : first off, stuff is kind of Brunswick green(nearly black) in color which is good for hiding..I did successfully apply a very thin single strand wire onto side of a piece of code 83 flex. It took just a tiny drop..I then used smallest alligator clip to hold wire in place as drying time is stated as 24 hrs..I was going to hook up my old analog powerpack, one lead to wire/other lead to other rail and then run an old analog engine to see if continuity is OK..Well, about 2 hrs in I got curious and checked on situ. Glue had firmed up but, as wire was sticking out 90 degrees from rail, I slowly moved this section of wire up and down and noticed that where wire was running under glue it was swiveling but still tight against rail..I then pulled wire toward me with not too much strength and it broke away from rail entirely (with some glue still against rail)...I'm going to repeat process later but with stranded wire as it's not as likely to swivel as it would be flatter against rail web..Also , I won't touch it for 24 hrs this time..BTW small tube is about $4.50...
Candy makes a good point in that it's had some 50 years to improve..Interesting, Gary brings up graphite..I wonder if graphite between stock rail and points would improve continuity in older, power-routing switches..So odd how points are visually touching stock rail and yet there are still stall outs until point is squeezed harder..This happens alot on a Walthers curved T.O. with ground-throw installed, too boot. I'm yappin' about switches here because they are where I'd hope liquid glue would work more than anywhere else..

 

I asked the same question about liquid solder some months ago and all I got from the "experts" is 'learn to solder.' Well, I did - about 50 years ago and several hundred of times later, and I still don't like to solder! MakInLA please keep us updated.

 

How can you be a "Model Railroader" with a nicely built and maintained layout, and NOT solder??? That is beyond me.........seems like the "liquid solder"
and such "band-aids" is a poor substitute at best.

 

Well said Mark!

I for one do not like soldering ....

 

I always prefer to tape/glue/twist/clamp wires together rather than solder. Saves me some melted ties, and is a fair bit quicker. less burn pains too!

 

Ok, I'm game and always ready to learn something new. My next question is if the new and improved liquid solder sets up in 24 hrs and provides a secure electrical connection then how would you undo the connection if necessary? What does the manufacturer's label suggest for clean up?

An internet search on graphite discusses galvanic corrosion of dissimilar metals (due to its conductive properties), pitting of stainless steel and corrosion of aluminum in the presence of moisture.

BTW soldering happens to be my forte and I use Posi-Tap connectors for my under bench work electrical connections.

 

Geez! Guess some of these posts suggest that there are still some who are torqued at the use of "plastique" in model railroading.

 

Thanks Paul...I mean, geez, if there were a way around it with perfect results, then.....One thing though, you can melt solder if need to change connection, but liquid is kind of like an epoxy...

 

I just located what I have. It's a 0.3 fl. oz. jar called Wire Glue from Anders Products, 72 Stone Place, Melrose, MA 02176. Contains Carbon and nontoxic binder. The set time is two hours and sugests covering with super glue when dry.
I can't comment on condectivity as I never checked but it does work. It may not be able to desolder with heat but I wonder if the solvent for removing super glue would work. ??
I don't have the work space and my equipment at this time so I can't do a check.

Forgot to mention it says to clean of any corrosion or coating from contact points first.