I spent some time yesterday looking for a primer on how to switch the couplers on my Life Like FA1 ABBA set (don't tell my boss). I was into the hobby about 10 years ago and recently came back. I used to have my LHS Guy do my conversions but I thought it was time to grow up and try myself. I know I need 1015s. Looking at the clips that hold the rapidos in, I think that I can do it. But before I break something, if there's a How To out there or if you guys could give me some hints I think I would be more confident. I would appreciate it. Side Note: I have an old unassembled package of 1015/1016 couplers. I tried to assemble one last night. I lost a few springs and pulled about half my hair out. Tomorrow I'm running to the LHS to get assembled ones. I don't have much hair as is, I can't afford to lose more. The experience gave me great respect for you super-detail guys. Sometimes you see the close up pics of the work you guys do and even though I play with the same size trains, you don't realize how small some of the stuff you do is -- WAY COOL -- I'M IN AWE. Thanks in advance.
On the rear just remove the coupler clip, discard the copper strip spring, stick in the MTL assembled 1015, and reinsert the coupler clip, taking care to be sure the center prong (that goes through the MTL coupler box) is alligned correctly. The prong should be forward of the side prongs. On the front I just stuck the nail-like pin through the MTL coupler box. If you do break something, you can drill and tap the holes the clips go into and use the screws that come with the 1015's.
You say you have an ABBA consist. I have several of these. I run them as a consist and do not uncouple them. I also like them to be close coupled. I used 1015's on the front of the A units and on the rear of the A units and both ends of the B units I used Unimates. They couple real close and the Unimate couplers keep them from uncoupling.
Thanks for the input. Nice... one of the main reasons for this project is to get them closer together. When I ebayed a couple AB sets I was excited until I saw they looked 5 N scale yards apart. From a quick search though, it looks like Unimates are not produced or available anymore. Am I missing something? Are the stock front couplers on the A units Unimates or something like them? What about Bachmann (cringe)Dummy Knuckle Couplers?
Smitty, I've been traveling so much the past year that I've lost track of Unimate couplers and their manufacturing status--but I'm sure someone else will chime in. I have a number of ABBA consists and use drawbars on the interior connections. That's just a little strip of plastic, attached by screws at each end. Works fine, and I never have the Z-scale coupler uncoupling problem when pulling heavy freights (60 cars) up a 2.75% grade, around an 18-inch radius curve. (I sometimes have clotheslining problems, but not from the engines).
Forget the Bachmann's. You need the Unimate 51060 Body Mount coupler forthe FA/B 1's. Do not get the "T" shank. That is for truck mounted couplers. The Unimate coupler is now made by Red caboose, or at least was made by them. I just did a fast [very fast] Etailer check and could not locate any. Even Walthers doesn't have any. Your best bet is to try a local hobby store. They cost about $2.50 for a package of six or eight.
I'm with Inky,I used Uni_mates on my FA1's..If anybody is looking for Uni-Mates,I have HUNDREDS of them..I had them on all my stuff at one time,I've changed almost everything over to MTL's...Pm me if you need any...
Thanks for the input everyone. Here's the update: After work I went by the LTS and sure enough they were out of the assembled 1015's -- be in next week. I was obsessed though, I could see that it would be a snap if I could just get those unassembled couplers together. So I took a deep breath and tried again. HEY... I did it!! I now have figured it out and have done four. They're small but not that hard once you get the hang of it. I had a SW9/1200 that I needed to do and that went well, so it was on to the FA/B1's. I did one A and one B and then wanted to take some pics to illustrate the difference. Here they are: Here's the rub... the first switch They went through, the trip pin got caught up. I'll have to adjust. Should I just toss them in the cradle and carefully bend the trip pins with a couple needle noses or what?
(In honor of the great Jim Reising I'm gonna use green like he does for replies) Here's a dumb question -- what do you do when you need to take one of those consists off the tracks? Just sort of lift them all, two in each hand and hope you don't drop one before you get to the workbench? LOU, Will the Unimates bring them even closer? I may have to drop you a note. I can't find any for sale.
If you're like me, and plan to run them in sets, just clip the darn pins below the coupler; you can always uncouple them with a sharp stick. Or, better still, use Accumates between the units for a close, solid coupling... Otto
Uncoupling with fixed-in-place magnetic uncouplers... sometimes useful for switching, dropping off cars at an industry spur, etc. With multiple unit locomotives you can't uncouple them that way anyway, unless you have DCC decoders in each of them assigned to different addresses... more trouble than it's worth IMHO. Just clip the suckers... Otto
I always wondered if the magnets really worked reliably. I don't see myself ever putting them in. Do you stop over them to make them uncouple? If you just roll over do they not uncouple?
In theory, the couplers do not uncouple if you move the train over them, as long as the couplers are in tension. Only when you stop over the magnet shoud the couplers open. In practice, any jolt or uneveness will result in unintended uncoupling and that is why I would never use (non-electric) magnets anywhere but on a single ended spur; more trouble then they are worth. Buy one (they are cheap) and experiment...Certainly I don't see any need for "working" couplers inbetween a ABBA set.. Otto
The Unimates will allow closer coupling than the 1015's. In fact the coupling is so close that the diaphragms will almost touch. That may be too close if you have sharp curves. I run Ntrak so it is not a problem for me. The body mount Unimates will need to have the one hole enlarged to fit over the pin in the retaining clip. I use an old coupler spring [from a Rapido coupler] that I place over the pin to exert upward pressure on the coupler or else it will droop and coupling will be a big problem.
