Hey everyone, as I progress along my layout[12X20 double decker] using unitrack I have been compiling questions about this wonderful product. What is it that forumers don't like or like about it. I've seen few problems with it so far. One is though that conversion track, whats the point? I take off one unijoiner on a regular piece of track and can easily connect my peco flex to it[code 80] and it mates up better to it than the conversion track! Also if you put the feeder track with it's big plug in the middle of the layout do you drill a masive hole to fit the plug or do you cut the plug off to make a smaller hole. I had many more questions which seem to have slipped my mind at the moment. I'll write them down and thanks for any responses, John W
Welcome to TrainBoard John. Why don't you join the N Scale Unitrack Users group. You'll get all your questions about Unitrack answered there. http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/group.php?groupid=50
John, Welcome aboard. As you can see from George's posts, he makes it clear that he is very much against Unitrack. There are opinions on both sides of the aisle and that is something to consider. I am going to use the Unitrack Double Track for a small layout that I am finally going to build this year. I had considered the Atlas True-Track but there isn't enough different pieces yet to suit my needs. In spite of being an admin here at TrainBoard, I am not a talented modeler so the Unitrack will be good for me. It will suit my purpose at this time and in the space that I have to work with. As Bob said, the Unitrack Users Group is a good place on TrainBoard to learn more about it. I've been asking questions there myself. Charlie
Mr. John W., New to TrainBoard...Eh? Welcome aboard. You're going to like it here. I think Unitrack is the best answer for someone starting out...and yes, a few of us old timers. George is correct. It is pricey and yes you are pretty much stuck with a pre-designed model railroad. This is true of all sectional track. Precisely where I started. There are advantages: No guess work! You can pick a track plan that appeals to you. Mixing and matching other manufactured track...is possible. Besides it all looks the same after you ballast the tracks. On my layout: Switches, Sectional Track a mix of Peco, Unitrack and Atlas. Flex Track Code 80 Atlas and Model Power...MP was cheaper, at the time! I do have some code 55...just not on the layout...grin! There are no limits as to what you can do. Follow the resources provided and you will be off and running. We want to see pictures!
My opinion is that the conversion track is simply a marketing solution that proves unitrack can be joined with any other brand of track, but for those of us who know better, your solution is a free alternative.
For a lot of folks that are just starting a layout (and learning) a sectional track solution is much easier to use to get up and running than the alternatives. Also, some folks (like me) are not going to be as talented as others at laying cork roadbed, working with flextrack to get it down just right, putting in switches, etc. I know that in my case, I just don't have the time to do that. I want to enjoy my trains and my layout is never going to look like a lot of the ones that are posted on TrainBoard/RailImages, so getting something together and being able to run some trains is going to be good. Then, I will add to it when possible. I'm sure that for many people, the sectional tracks available are a stepping stone to greater things. However, on the other hand, veteran modelers (like Bob) are able to do amazing things with Unitrack and you wouldn't know the difference. I don't think that any "limits" are going to stifle a creative person. There are enough pieces available that you can do just about anything. Charlie
Did I miss the question or what? Throw that transition track out the window. A little shimming, dremel tool cutting, and remove the Uni rail joiner to be replaced by a standard one and you are in like flint. Sorry, not sure how to answer the big plug...question. When it comes to feeder wires, I drill a small hole, on the outside of the rail, directly into the Uni-plastic-roadbed and subroadbed, drop the wire through the hole and connect to bus. I then solder directly to the track and this leaves you free to solder any and all railjoiners should it become necessary. Does this help?
Not really a fair assumption. I am NOT all that against unitrack. In fact I just recently posted that I have 'thought' of using it myself. The poster asked for pro and cons. I just started with the cons first. I havent gotten to the pros yet. Like Rick stated...for a beginner unitrack is 'bulletproof'. And yes...it can be mated to other brands of track. BUT...the first 2 cons I posted are the main reasons I DONT use it. I like the flexabilty of having my track go where I want it to....others may not agree...and thats fine too. I also like saving my $$ for other train stuff. It's like some run C80 and some are running C55...we all use what we are happy with. Besides...It railroading !....It's all good:tb-cool: .
With Uni-Track rail joiners, there's no need to solder them at all. Of all rail joiners in N scale they are the most stable and reliable as they lock in position. As for soldering feeders, I solder directly to the rails and the Unitrack feeder section is not needed at all. To see completely weathered and ballasted Unitrack, see my new website below for the original JJJ&E which was operational for nine years. I'm in the process of building a new layout and will still use Unitrack. Unitrack is very versatile and my new layout will have broad sweeping curves of 28 1/4" radii. The original JJJ&E was a 10x15' layout on multiple levels. There was no level mainline track on the 130' of mainline. The Unitrack was completely weathered and ballasted.You can use Unitrack to make any track plan you design and it has no limitations.
Some of us veteran modelers use Unitrack, and there are no limits to its flexibility and versatility.
BOB...I respectfully disagree. I know you are a hardcore unitrack guy and I dont want or need to get in a shoving match over track. BUT.. from all unitrack installs I have seen...yours included...when you lay a crossover on parralell tracks...the tracks are nowhere near the 1.25 inches they should be. Plus there is no way you are going to lay unitrack in configurations like you can with flextrack. So there are indeed linitations with unitrack. Like I said... I dont HATE unitrack...I just dont subscribe to the notion that it is the best thing since slice bread. To each there own...run what ya like. BTW...this aint a flame or any such thing...just a discussion/debate...so I hope no one gets ruffled feathers...LOL. .
Unitrak is SO reliable. You just don't have any problems. One thing no one can dispute is that the Unitrack is unbelievably popular. The Unitrack forum was just recently opened up and it is by far the most popular forum. That speaks volumes.
Ya think that maybe the fact its put up as a 'sticky' at the top of the page may have something to do with its popularility...:tb-wink:. I sure dont see any other groups posted up there...hmmmmm I will leave this thread now...before I get slamdunked...:tb-cool:. Laters all.
I'm a newbie so what I'm about to tell you probably isn't worth 2 squirts of owl poo. Sectional track including Unitrack is not for everyone. However, it is for me! I recently purchased 2 big orders worth for my 38x94 layout. I don't know if I'll ever get to my final plan because I'm having so much fun rearranging it I can't seem to stop. I lay out the track, run my train for awhile, see how I like it, and then change some things up. I'm getting closer all the time to how I want it and in the end I should be happy. IMHO, price, looks, and noise are the 3 main downsides. It's not cheap but nothing of quality ever seems to be. It makes a big difference where you buy it. Unitrack can really vary in price from dealer to dealer. It's mainly the turnouts that are expensive. My #6's are $18-$19 but I only need 8-10 of them and I haven't bought them all at once. Unitrack also has pretty good resale value on eBay so you can feel comfortable buying plenty to experiment with. The turnouts work very well. They have a manual slide switch and can also be controlled via remote switch. The #6's are power routing. The #4's are selectable for power routing. I don't currently have any of the 4's. The 4's did require some tweaking when they came out, not sure if that's been rectified. I have not had mine long enough to really comment from personal experience but everything I've read says it stays cleaner than any other track. I wipe mine down with a coffee filter and 91% alcohol and it's more to just wipe dust away. There is very little if any black stuff. Then again I'm pretty religious about cleaning it daily and I run daily. My layout is small enough it's not much effort to clean it. It's all what you want for yourself really. It does not look as good as conventional track even if you doctor it up and that's just my opinion. However, right out of the package it looks more than good enough for my needs. I am more concerned with how well my trains run, and so far they run like melted butter across hot rails. It is also a bit noisey depending on what you run it on but I hear that calms down when scenery is in place. I kinda go with the "real trains make a lot of noise" school of thought and don't let it bother me. It's actually more quiet than I had anticipated. I'm going with metal wheels soon as well so there will be no "whisper train" running here. I don't subscribe to the theory that Unitrack is the end all, be all and like most products it has it's pros and cons. For me personally, the pros far outweigh the cons and I can honestly say that if I could not build my first layout with this stuff I would have never built one. I'm so glad I did. If you have the time, health, skills, and patience to lay conventional flex track then go for it. You *may* save some money, and it looks fabulous! I would like to try it someday if only for a small experimental layout. That code 55 is DROOL CITY! People have some very valid reasons for not going with Unitrack. I just wanted to share my brief experience as a VERY satisfied customer.
I'd have to dig out one of my Unitrack conversion pieces to try it, but I believe they are for joining Unitrack to the similar Tomix track which is more popular than Unitrack in japan. Remember when you look at the price of a unitrack turnout that it includes the price of a ready installed switch machine hidden in the roadbed. Also remember as far as appearance goes, that being Kato it is Japanese prototype and a reasonable facsimile of well maintained and manicured Japanese 3' 6" gauge track in 1:150 scale. It was developed for the Japanese market where most modelers set up their track on the floor of their apartment after dinner and pack it away again before rolling out their bed.
This can be done either way. If the wire on the feeder track is long enough to suit, the connector can be left as is and a hole of 1/2 inch is big enough and will be hidden by the Unitrack. Or you can cut off the connector and splice the wires to other wires. No biggie. Ben
Cost? Cheaper really. Unitrack cost far less in the long run if you have to change your track plan which most novices do. I have changed the "Grey and Grandure" 4 major times and have made numerous minor adjustments. All of the track still works. Limiting? That is a good thing. For novices it is always a good thing to have limits as there as it reduces the variables when first learning. Later when there is a greater comprehension about trains in general and the multitude of aspects of model railroading then a decsion can be made to use or abandon Unitrak.
Worthy of a Sticky? Do a search on: Unitrak Intermodal Wiring Unit Trains etc... compare the number of hits. You tell me if Unitrak merits a sticky. I think it does.
