Short answer: with great difficulty Long answer: see Rick's answer I only have experience with the Molex extraction tools (with Molex connectors). The snap in crimp terminals used in the Mini-Tamiya connectors (used by Kato) are configured almost identically to the Molex connector components. I have had about 50% success rate with removal of Molex terminals and wouldn't expect any different with Mini-Tamiya terminals. It's all about the physics of the process. You're trying to compress the terminal "ears" while also pushing the terminal out. If one of the ears doesn't release, you wind up making it more permanent by bending it further out. Why not just drill a big hole and then slip some flexible tubing or similar over the wire to fill in the gap?
Sure wish that Kato would expand its line of curved sections to include at least one new option between their 15" radius to their 19" radius and another wider radius just outside of the 19" radius. I use 19" easements on the ends of the 13.75" and 15" curves but it doesn't look correct. You have to add some very small straight segments from the straight 'assortment' track to realign the concentric curves... not pretty... and could cause conductivity issues unless all track is connected to a bus wire. I prefer not to use concentric curves unless they are the commonly available Kato 11.25", 12.5", 13.75" and 15"... everything works more smoothly. Sent from my SM-J737T using Tapatalk
I agree that Kato needs to make available a greater selection of track radii between 15" and 19". I also would like to see them make those and their existing larger radius sections available in 15° and 30° lengths, to provide greater flexibility in designing layouts without using a Dremel tool. They have started in that direction with their super-elevated double track sections. What I have done, at this time, is to alternate 19" sections and 15" sections to make what is effectively a 16 - 3/8" radius curve to go outside my 15" radius curve, starting with a 19" section "easement" for both curves. It really doesn't look that bad. The inner half-circle is 15° of 19" radius on each end, with 150° of 15" in between (made up of 5 30° sections). The outer curve starts with 2 15° 19" radius sections on each end, with the remaining 120° made-up by 30° of 15", then 15° of 19" from each end and 30° of 15" in the middle.
I thought about trying to remove the plugs and do smaller holes as well but ended up going ahead and doing the bigger holes directly under the track and then backfilling the holes with some clay that I had. Having done that, I think it ended up working well and was much easier. Just my two cents worth.
I guess you guys are talking about the #6s, since the wired for the #4s unplug at the turnout end with a very small connector. Another possibility for the #6s is to cut the attached wires and out smaller connectors on the cut ends to reconnect the wires once they are passed through the holes in the layout. That might be useful to somebody who is planning on rearranging the track plan and wants flexibility. It also allows the wires to the turnouts to be threaded through smaller holes in the support stringers under the layout board if that is an issue. But, the OEM connectors will pass through a hole that is less wide than the roadbed, so a hole for them can be hidden pretty easily with no structural issues. So, frankly, I'm not understanding the problem.
I agree that the holes width is less that the roadbed and that was a big plus as well. I mentioned about back filling the holes because if I ever forget to do that, I will inevitably end up with some glue and or scenery material finding it's way though and to whatever happens to be underneath. I also just learned something. I used all #6's on my layout and didn't know that the #4's were wired differently. Interesting.
I have a question regarding polarity of track power on my old skool DC railroad. I think I recall that as in my photo below, when the right rail (aka the outside rail on an oval) is Positive (+), the forward direction is from left to right (counterclockwise around the oval) per the yellow arrow. I checked with my meter, and Kato's convention is that the White wire is Positive (+) and the Blue wire is Negative (-). I want to be sure I'm squared up on this detail before I begin to wire my control panel. Thanks again!
I think you are correct. More conventionally, the left rail is "black" and the right "red", which is also how DCC decoders are typically wired (although it doesn't matter for them).
Question on hooking up Kato switch controllers. DC track power terminals or AC accessories terminals on the power pack? Which is correct?
It's weird that Kato chose red and black for turnout power, when these colors are usually associated with track power with polarity exactly as you described.
I just checked the contacts on the side of my Kato pack and they're DC, so I think you simply plug the Kato turnout controllers straight into the side of the Kato pack and daisy chain as many turnout controllers as you might need like in the picture below. Maybe someone else can verify this.
Thanks Hardcoaler. My reason for asking and I should have added it to the original question is I'm not using a Kato power pack. Thus, I am thinking it needs DC but that leads to the dilemma of where to get aux DC power. Something I guess I just didn't anticipate.
I see. My Kato pack outputs 13.45 VDC at these posts. I'm guessing that you'll want a Kato 24-842 DC Converter to plug your Kato turnout controllers to. I think it contains an AC => DC rectifier, but you can feed it DC too I'd think.
So, there is my problem exactly> I apparently picked up wrong part. There is a Kato 24-829 Accessory Adapter that looks just like that but apparently is not a DC converter. Thank you for the help. Hoping what passes for the LHS will have that part and I can get it later today.
Has anyone here used Kato Unitrack ballast with their Unitrack or had any experience with it? I've read a few reviews and sounds like it is actual rock ballast and matches the color of the Unitrack. Also, what other matches are there out there for this?
I bought some but never used it. It looked like a good match to the current UniTrack pieces. The look of the ballast changed 15 - 20 years ago.
Well, I think when able, I will give it a try. What are folks using for ballast around Unitrack if not this? Does ARM make something that is a good match maybe?
I use ARM ballast, exclusively, and specifically do NOT try to match the Unitrack. Different sections of the JACALAR (which is all Unitrack, except for the turntable leads) have different ballast. That meant I had to VERY VERY carefully get a mono-layer of ballast between all the ties