As I visit train shows and talk to others, I sometimes worry over advice like this and I'm SO glad that TrainBoard users are here to sort it out. This conversation was like a previous one in its result where a fellow gravely told me that I could not run 6-axle diesels or any steam locomotive over a Kato No. 4 turnout. I was really crushed to hear that, but y'all dismissed that one as well. I sometimes think that poor advice is a result of simple repetition of something heard. I hang on some automotive forums and read some alarmingly terrible recommendations that some members take to heart.
You mentioned the temperature changes in your home. I'm in PHX and am thinking of doing a garage layout in N with Unitrak since our home here doesn't really offer me the space for a layout like I've had in the past. My biggest concern has been temperature extremes in the garage, which is why I was thinking Unitrak. I figured I could build the layout and it could even be scenicked, with just the place for the track to go. I could put the track out and run it as needed, but ideally i'd prefer to leave it as much as possible. Have you had any bad experiences with the temperature changes? Thanks! -Dave
There is little reason to attach Unitrack to whatever surface it is resting on. I have four loops on a shelf layout that just sit on 1/4" cork with no attachment whatsoever. It's not going anywhere.
THERR is built inside an RV parked on the side of the house. With massive temp swings from winter to summer I have had zero track problems using the outdoor caulk. its listed as 'Window and Door' caulking. It is made to expand and contract around windows and doors in all kinds of weather without cracking, shrinking or seperating. The Unitrack itself hasnt given me any problems with expanding or contracting or causing 'kinks'...JMO
Thanks. I probably didn't phrase it correctly but my main concern was about contraction/expansion/operating/etc. The reason I would pursue Unitrak would be precisely because of your comments - that I can put it out and leave it OR take it up fairly easily if needed.
Cool - thanks. I have always used Peco/Atlas flex track/turnouts but figured with the temp variations in the garage it might be better to go with something like Unitrak that I could take down if it got too hot or something. As I've thought about it more, aside from the sort of fixed geometry, it might actually make the whole layout building thing go much more quickly. Money is a whole 'nother subject though.
Another advantage to Unitrack is the fixed 'geometry'. You can always move track pieces around until you get the geometry you like. When I laid mine out for THERR I had so many designs I tried...I forgot half of them...LOL. It is also fairly easy to cut Unitrack to make pieces to fit whatever shape or size you need. Mike Fifer has a lot of Unitrack tips and tricks here >> http://www.fiferhobby.com/how-to/
Whoa mtntrainman, thank you! What a great link -- there's a ton of valuable information there. Definitely worth bookmarking.
Thank you. The geometry is something I'll need to work through since I plan to do a curvy route. I'll likely need to download a tool to help me plan that out and play with things before I get into ordering anything. Thanks again!
The Kato power pack [22-014] has a "Brake" position between 'Forward" and "Reverse". Is this merely an "Neutral" position or is it a braking feature as in my old MRC Tech II 1500 power pack? Thank you.
Thanks y'all. I have other old power packs, but I'm thinking about buying the Kato because of it's control-panel-friendly small size.
I have another question about the Kato power pack, this one about its dimensions. I plan to place it on a shelf in my control panel and the shelf is not very deep. Adding together the pack's depth and maximum rear plug depth (plugs for track power, turnout and wall transformer which stick out), what is the total depth of the pack with the longest plug? I'm trying to determine the depth of shelf I'll need. Thank you again everyone!
I should have asked too, are the dimensions of the Kato power pack 4-1/4 In Deep and 5 In Wide? Some time ago I measured one at a show, but did so looking through through the packaging and I'm not sure how precise my measuring was.
Body of pack is 5.25" wide, 4.25" deep. I would allow an addition 2.00" inches in depth for wire connections (the factory Kato power supply plug protrudes about 1.25").
