How to paint a CB&Q GP30 in N scale

Jim Wiggin Jun 9, 2006

  1. engineshop

    engineshop Resigned From Forum

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    I got my full face respirator from e-bay. I checked the site and right now there are at least a dozen repirator between $60 and $100 available.
    Not cheap but if you do a lot of painting it will protect your eyes from paint particle as well.
     
  2. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman TrainBoard Member

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    Ebay Respirator

    ebay respirator

    How about this? Not expensive, but I can't tell what I am getting. Does it include filters? How hard are the filters to get? How often do you change filters? It is 3M, so it probably has some quality. I just presume a medium size will fit. I think I hardly know enough about this to ask a question. Thanks for the help.

    3M full face really seems nice. More expensive but indicates a complete mask including filters.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 14, 2006
  3. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Flash, that looks like a good deal on something that will work in your shop. Key words, works with organic airborne particles. That should work for our purposes, remember that industrial and automotive coatings are far more "hot" or harmful than our paints. With enamels you want to keep the fumes out of your head and with acrylics you want to keep that dust out of your respitory system.
     
  4. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman TrainBoard Member

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    More Great Information

    Exactly what I need to know to make some kind of selection. :thumbs_up:So, I will look for something like that plus a "P" type filter. It's always good to know something! :happy19pb:
     
  5. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Well goodmorning class, we are going to start and end most of our day in the cab of the CB&Q GP30 and I hope to show you a bit more tricks in the detailing end, so lets get out of the crew quarters and head on over to the shops.

    I wanted to give this locomotive an engineer for a few reasons, it looks good in a yard scene, on the front of a train and the non-modelers really like to see the little man in there! For the first part we need to modify our cab. I carefully cut the center section of the window on the engineers side. Next I used the glass insert that will put glass on the engineer side. In order for "Vern" our engineer to look out on the line we need to remove the center glass. I scored the center section just below window and snaped it off as you can see here.

    [​IMG]

    With the window cut, I then filed a section so that Vern would sit flush against the inside of the cab. Vern had to cut down a little so as to clear the long hood tab. With every thing ready ready I was ready for some final assembly. I was originally going to use a MV lens to replicate the CB&Q red upper light, but as fate would have it, it did not fit right and I lost it in the shops BN green carpet, Doh! I instead used Polly Scale #F404091 Signal Red. I think I'm going to change this tonight to Model Master Acryl Clear Red #4630 as this replicates marking lights really well and is semi transparent. The Signal Red was too solid for my liking. I installed the numberboard and front window assembly, followed by the side window assemblies, the glued Vern in with some instant CyA. Vern looked happy with his new home, hope his wife don't mind.:teeth:
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 27, 2006
  6. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    It is also good to note I only removed the middle section of window, dont just cut the "glass" in three pieces and glue the front and rear quarter windows. That plastic tab helps keep the cab nice and tight against the frame.

    Now onto the windshield wipers, a personal favorite of mine.

    [​IMG]

    For this step I used the wipers from the JnJ diesel detail set. Note the two sizes, the larger for the door windows and cab and the shorter for the main windscreen. Here I use a cutting board, a set of Model Master Micro Shear Photo Etch Trimmers, #50688C, a post it note, small tweezers and some thick CyA. I also used a file from the Model Master line #50630C. You can use a #11 blade to free the parts, just be careful as you can bend the parts. Early on I drilled #80 holes in the cab for the windshield wipers. With the long blades cut, cleaned with a file, I picked up the part with my tweezers and dipped the end into a small pool of CyA that I put on the post it note, the carefully placed the wiper in its home. The thick CyA will hold better because it will fill any gaps in the hole that was drilled. I did not drill holes above the windscreen because in the past, even a #80 drill would deform the area due to the tight clearance between the numberboard and window. For this locomotive I simple cut the smaller blades out and used my eye to find the middle. The end that would normally go into the hole fits snuggly into the area between the windows weather striping and numberboard. Another trick I like to do is to hold the blade part of the wiper with a small set of plyers and carefully bend the wiper arm to give a more realistic look. I checked the pictures of my GP30 and while the windscreen wipers remained perpendicular with the arms, the cab wipers were articulated so that the wiper always went straight back and forth. I glued these last two in and called it a night.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 27, 2006
  7. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    [​IMG]
    So here is our completed cab ready to go on the frame and body. Vern looks good up there, he needs a bit of touch up but we'll let him rest a day. Other than touching up the gyra light, the cab is done!

    Tomorow we get closer to finishing this project up! We'll ad Craig's new MU hoses from BLMA and detail them, add air hoses, then turn our attention to the trucks by adding the speed recorder and painting the trucks and fuel tank. After all that we'll weather it. The Burlington shops goal is to get this motor done by Friday, June 16th! Better get some more java Vern!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 27, 2006
  8. HemiAdda2d

    HemiAdda2d Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Excellent!! I have a whole fleet of engines to do now.. Darn you, I'm gonna have to add more details! ;)
    You said you didn't drill a #80 for the center wipers? Do you have trouble with the wipers falling off if they get bumped, being glued right to the paint?
     
  9. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Hemi, so far no they have stayed on ok, and that has even been in an N-Trak envoirment. I mind if you use a good quality thick adhesive they stay put real well. Remember too that CyA cures because of a lack of oxygen, the clearance between the weatherstriping and numberboards is so tight that they glue gets a good bond. I have used the Carl Goldbergs CyA for many years and it has held well. Short of rough handeling and dropping my wipers have held.

    Jim
     
  10. engineshop

    engineshop Resigned From Forum

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    Okay
    I don't know how many of Jim's tips you will try but you have to try the low pressure airbrushing, only 1 - 2 inches away from the model.

    [​IMG]

    This is the first try on a piece of airplane wing that I did without even preparing the plastic ( SP wing!! You have to be a train geek to think it is funny).
    3 - 4 years of trying every single way to airbrush a nice surface and here, Jim presented the only way you don't even have to practice to become a master airbrusher.

    I don't know about you guys but if you ask me, Jim just made custom painting very easy.

    Thank you very much Jim.
     
  11. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Roland, so glad you like it, it is hard to explain but once you find that sweet spot, your hooked on the airbrush thing! The Polly scale really likes the low psi, sounds weird but you have proven it to the rest of the guys here. So is that P-47 going to be a Black Widow?:shade:
     
  12. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Well The west Burlington shops were busy last night and we are almost done this locomotive. With Vern in his home, the cab on the body it was now time to turn our attention to the trucks. I'm surprised how many of my earlier locomotives had stock black trucks and fuel tanks. It was not until around 2002 that I started painting those componants as the Atlas GP38's in undec were completely undec, thank you Atlas! I have also started doing some basic details on my trucks that only takes a few minutes but makes a real difference. Lets take a look at the picture below.

    [​IMG]

    Here is the lead truck for our CB&Q GP30. The speed recorder off to the left has been assembled and is ready for the install. The first step is to sand off the rear journal and to drill a #76 hole for the speed recorder. This is where pictures of the prototype come in handy. On the CB&Q GP30's, the recorder was on the engineers side. This is common, but some locomotives have the recorder on the firemans side. Once the hole is drilled and and the journal is sanded, we have six other holes to drill. These are dimples on the truck frame, to make them more realistic per the prototype simple use the picture above as a guide and drill the holes on each side of the trucks. Work slowly as the trucks are made of Delrin and you want a nice clean hole. When you are finished with all the drilling on the lead truck, apply the speed recorder with a drop of thick CyA. Make sure the cable is perpendicular to the frame (horizontal), it will make a 45 degree angle up and into the body later on. With the trucks finished (don't forget the trailing truck), drop both trucks and fuel tank in your solution of alcohol we used for the handrails. We'll let them soak overnight and paint them tomorrow.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 27, 2006
  13. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    I usally apply my MU hoses and air hoses last, that way I can detail them a bit. I drilled the #80 holes for the MU's before the locomotive went to the paint booth. Craig of BLMA has produced a set of MU hoses that are absolutley the best I have seen and are the easist to install. No I do not work for him:shade: I have used many other manufactuers MU hoses and they tend to be harder to install and only look like a four pieces of wire. The BLMA MU's are flat brass, but have the quick disconects and plumbing detail, plus all you need to drill is one #80 hole per MU set! These are new and you can find them here http://www.nscaleblma.com/BLMA100.html Now we could just paint these black, but a look at the prototype and we see that even the simple MU's were multiple colors. Let's take a look at what we need for this next step.

    [​IMG]

    First we have the MU's, the Precision Craft air hoses, my favorite tools the locking tweezers, and Polly Scale paint. Start by dipping those brass MU's into your solution of alcohol, air dry and use a small brush to start painting the MU's and air hoses. Remove the MU's and air hoses from the parts frame or sprue with a hobby knife. I started by sticking the MU's into the locking tweezer as seen above. Start by painting the MU frame (the part that looks like a piece of metal with four hoses conected) with Polly Scale Caboose Red #F414128. Paint the air hoses Caboose Red at this time as well. Because of the nature of what we are painting, you may want to re-apply the paint a second time for good coverage. The paint dries fast on brass, so start with the first and move to MU #2,3,4 then repeat the process with 1 and so on. Next Paint the hoses themselves Engine Black #414290. Now carefully paint the ends of the MU hoses (quick connects) and end of the air hose Santa Fe Silver #F414143. With this all painted, carefully bend the tab as Craig shows in his instructions for the MU. With our post it note and a bit of thick CyA, dip the tab in the CyA and apply it to the hole that was drilled in the frame. Next drill a #76 hole on the right hand side of the coupler facing front, dip the air hose into the thick CyA and mount.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 27, 2006
  14. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    So with our MU's and air hoses painted and mounted, the frame should look like this.

    [​IMG]

    This better illustrates the process above as far as location and colors. The foam cradle also helps as a third hand in this situation. I did some research on the CB&Q red gyra light and the lens used was as clear as I thought, so I kept the lens the Signal Red color and added a drop of Gloss Clear #F404100.

    Well that is all for today class, this locomotive looks like its about ready to start paying the bills. Tomorow is D-Day! We will paint the trucks with a scale black and give it a bit of weathering, weather the top of our locomotive, pop in those nose headlights and assemble everything. Looks like we'll be seeing this locomotive done on our due date of Friday the 16th.

    Class dismissed!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 27, 2006
  15. HemiAdda2d

    HemiAdda2d Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Darn it, more details I need to buy for 40-some odd locos...
    Jim, you're killin' me! Outstanding work!!!!
     
  16. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Well it's Friday and the shops were busy last night, but someone said they saw Vern and the guys from the shop cooking Brats on the grill behind the roundhouse around 7:00 last night. Hmm, must be on track? Lets see what our last class has to show.

    [​IMG]

    As you can see in the picture, the Tank and Trucks are still in the black plastic. After a night in the alchol tank, they were ready for paint. The parts where painted an overall Engine Black #F414290. Engine black is really a very dark gray and as a result shows the detail of the trucks really well as it gives a scale effect. Next was to give the trucks a light weathering. Even though this unit was washed and cleaned for the photograph in 1964, items like the trucks and the roof would still have some dust and soot. I used #F414311 Earth, and shot it through my Aztek at 16 psi. This gave me a lot of control and I was able to feather the earth onto the tops of the trucks and fuel tank were dust would settle.

    Lastly I mixed up a mixture of 60% Steam Power Black #F414110 Steam Power Black with 40% Rust #F414323 and lightly shot the mixture onto the roof of the locomotive at 16 psi to represent the exhaust soot per prototype photgraphs. With the last bit of items painted, I detailed the grabs and cut levers by painting the Engine Black #F414290, again per the photographs I had. I assembled the trucks and fuel tank on the frame, then installed the nose light and finally the body to the frame. Only one thing left to do.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 27, 2006
  17. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    With #974 done, it was time to install the Micro-Trains #1015 couplers. Again this is a detail that is often overlooked, so lets see how we can make these essential parts look more realistic.

    [​IMG]

    Start by using my favorite tool, the locking tweezers. With the couplers in the tweezers, start by applying a small amount of Engine Black #F414290. Just enough to cover the part, don't get so much paint on the coupler to foul up the operation. Next dry brush Rust #F414323 on the front of the coupler. This represnts the new rust, each time these couplers couple and uncouple they wear and rust. Dry brush the rust by dipping the brush into the paint and dab it onto a paper towel until it is almost dry, then dab the front of the coupler. Next I used the same steps with Roof Brown #F414275 and apply this color around the sides of the coupler to represent older oxidation. Now mount the couplers and we are done.

    Next, the finished pictures...
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 27, 2006
  18. HemiAdda2d

    HemiAdda2d Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Lookin' good, Jim!
    Can't wait for the finished product!
     
  19. engineshop

    engineshop Resigned From Forum

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    Jim
    Do you have any sugestions about spraying yellow paint. I have never been able to get a nice finish with yellow. I used different amount of thinner, even straight out of the bottle but still don't get a nice finish.
    As soon as the yellow is more orange, there is no problems at all, like the Polly S UP yellow but SCL yellows or even Railbox yellow is a nightmare.
    Thanks
    Roland
     
  20. Pete Nolan

    Pete Nolan TrainBoard Supporter

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    Jim,

    Thanks so much for the tutorial. I've learned a lot! I'm presuming a glass jar filled with isopropyl and then capped would do just fine?

    I got to this article just this morning. One thing I didn't understand was pulling the tape on the cab. You said to pull toward the just applied paint, I think. But how do you do that with the pull tab you created?
     

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