How do you start?

Polski Sep 19, 2013

  1. Polski

    Polski TrainBoard Supporter

    99
    3
    23
    I've been thinking of building a G Scale layout in my backyard but have no idea where to start. Can you ll give me some books or web sites to help me out.

    Thanks
    Polski
     
  2. ScaleCraft

    ScaleCraft TrainBoard Member

    2,176
    98
    26
    Garden Railways mag for starters.
    Depends on what you want to do and how large you want it to be.

    How old are you?
    If you foresee an issue with getting down on the ground to work on it or throw switch controls, build it high.
    My brothers and I, none of us has a back that worth a hoot....so, we killed ourselves for six months hauling rock and dirt.....and we've run it for over 20 years, regularly.
    Think about attaching the track to something. I used 4X4 vertical, buried in the original grade, plates across the top...when the dirt settles, and it will, the track didn't move.
    I can put track next to a cliff and not worry about the ballast shifting.
    Stay away from Stainless for cost issues.
    I use all, as in 100%, radio battery, inexpensive aluminium track.
    Small pike, about 1500 feet of track and 90+ switches.
    You need specifics on how to build track supports?
    Dave
     
  3. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

    67,667
    23,130
    653
    Start s-m-a-l-l. Do not overwhelm yourself with a yard filling empire, at the very beginning. See how you are doing, how much of your proposed budget is being consumed. Ask questions and read whatever you can find.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 19, 2013
  4. ScaleCraft

    ScaleCraft TrainBoard Member

    2,176
    98
    26
    Ours started with a loop, oh, 40 feet, maybe 50 feet long, 15 feet wide, on sloping ground, on 4X4's buried in grade, plates on top....shallow 3 feet in the air, highest end 5 feet. Laid track and ran.

    As we obtained dirt, we then got rocks, figured out where towns and industries would be, laid rock layer, dirt, wet and tamped, next layer of rock, more dirt.
    From there, we expanded. Took a lot of years, but we ran trains the entire time.
     
  5. Steve F

    Steve F TrainBoard Member

    193
    0
    14
    In your area?
    http://www.ggrrc.org/

    Garden railway-ers(?) have a large society, they are all over. Maybe even .....everywhere.
     
  6. Polski

    Polski TrainBoard Supporter

    99
    3
    23
    I'm 65 and have no problems getting on my knees (and getting back up). My area I have is about 32'x18'.
    Just looking for good reading material, so I guess "Garden Railways" is a start.

    Polski
     
  7. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

    67,667
    23,130
    653
    You will have many long years of fun in that space described. Please keep us posted as your planning progresses!
     
  8. Polski

    Polski TrainBoard Supporter

    99
    3
    23
    Ok;

    Bought a copy of Garden Railway and have a question, what's up with all the different scales in "G"?

    Polsk
     
  9. Steve F

    Steve F TrainBoard Member

    193
    0
    14
    Different manufacturers use the G gauge track to produce models that are scaled to fit the 45mm track. Some use it for narrow gauge trains while others use it for standard gauge trains, thus the scale discrepancy.
     
  10. ScaleCraft

    ScaleCraft TrainBoard Member

    2,176
    98
    26
    One #1 gauge track:
    1:32 is 4' 8-1/2"
    1:29 is goofy gauge...no known scale to gauge.
    1:24 is 3'6" gauge
    1:22.5 is metre gauge...initially promoted by LGB.
    1:20.3 is 3' gauge.

    Now.

    Unless you have broad curves and good clearances, don't do 1:20.3.
    Decide now, before you buy a lot of stuff you will have to get rid of, what you want to do.
    Do you want narrow gauge steam? Mainline steam? Mainline diseasemal? European steam, diseasemal or electric?

    Once you know, and look around, THEN buy.
    Track will kill you. For decent running out doors, stainless is the way some go, requires a rail bender.
    Nickle-Silver is better, won't eat flanges off like stainless can.
    Brass requires cleaning...sometimes lots.
    I use only radio/battery, and use aluminium...Llagas....and it is about 20 a six foot stick.

    "Code" or height of the rail in decimal.
    Most of the stuff is .332. Do the math. How many trains run on nine inch high rail?
    Mine is all 250 and 215. With stock flanges, about .200 is the minimum you can go without reworking all your flanges.

    Basic primer. There are other scales, but minor.

    Dave
     
  11. HemiAdda2d

    HemiAdda2d Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

    22,061
    27,715
    253
    I'm filing this info away for a rainy day after I retire from my current day job and settle down a bit. Moving every 3-4 years makes it hard to do Garden railroading.
     
  12. ScaleCraft

    ScaleCraft TrainBoard Member

    2,176
    98
    26
    Interestingly....the nmra did not want more than one scale per gauge.
    Back in the 30's and 40's, to fix the scale to gauge discrepancy in 0, at 1:48 or 1/4" scale...the gauge is what, five feet.....we had 17/64ths scale...correct scale to the gauge.
    The nmra decided this was not in accordance with their new "standards", and the lock-step folks at Clambake reported in reviews that items in 17/64ths no longer met nmra standards.
    The minions who just swallowed that didn't buy 17/64ths any more...and it went away. 25 years later, we got Proto48, which permanently and irrevocably split the 0 hobby....no longer could you have interchange of equipment...one of the cornerstones of the nmra.
    Now they have at least 5 scales on one gauge...how's that working out for them now?
    Dave
     

Share This Page