Just can't understand why some want so many feeders. Right now I have one on a Kato M2 with siding. And I have run all three locos with five cars and a track clearer car. All at the same time at low speeds. Back in the '90s I did the same with two much larger layouts. I can see where it will benefit DCC signals getting there. But not with straight DC.
Remember that old proverb, "measure 20 times, cut once, still screw it up. Back to the lumberyard." That's how I do it.
I take a bit of a middle ground on this, with feeders every few feet. I think that "every single section of track needs a feeder" is a bit on the overkill side. However, Rule #1...
Well drilled a bunch of holes for power feeders and switch controllers. Question for you guys, can you run 2 switches off of one controller for passing sections, or does it have to be run as separate controls for each with Unitrack?
I found a contact insertion/removal tool for the connectors/pins that Kato uses (the same connector is widely used in battery powered RC car racing too). This allows you to temporarily remove the bulky connector housings, feed the wires/contacts through smaller holes, and reassemble the connectors on the wires easily. I posted about it here a while back, but don't remember exactly where... Fifer Hobby also has a nice video on how to make your own powered unijoiners too.
Multiple switches (at least 4) can be run from one Kato controller (case in point: the double crossover has all four switch solenoids wired to the single connector).
Pictures would not download last night, but finally arrived in my box this morning. Laid out the track to see where I have to make changes or alterations to the scenery and then my g'niece Emma took the throttle for the first test run. Kato PA-1 found a couple of spots to adjust but overall the mainline and yard is good. Ran wires down for switches and some lines, and ordered another #6 switch to add a spur into the town and behind where the engine house will sit. And Walther's came through and found a PDF of the instructions for the turntable!
Deacon, In the last pic, it looks like you have a mismatch between the two tracks that pass under the bridge. The straight portions of those two tracks should be parallel to each other (they are both off the diverging routes of two successive switches at right.) It's hard to tell which one is off, but I might start with inserting a short straight piece between the diverging route of the switch at left and the curve, or between those two curve segments, or by swapping out to larger radius curve(s) there. You could go to a smaller radius curve on the thru-route of the switch at left. If not addressed, this will likely add to electrical connection problems, as well as the gap between track-ends on one rail causing derailments. Actually, getting those two tracks a little closer together would help them squeeze under the bridge better too. I really like this track plan. It has room for operating as well as just orbiting, in a relatively small space!
Thanks! The yard under the upper track is actually a parallel short passing siding with a branch coming off of it to the lower left. I have tried very hard to avoid S curves, especially in tight quarters. I do appreciate your looking out for me on the yard! I put an earlier pic in where it is a little easier to see. Hope that helps.
Well, I had a really nice gift arrive today! A friend form a shooting forum discovered we both are model railroaders and asked me for my address. The package arrived today and included an Atlas N scale Shay! Holy cats, this thing is gorgeous! It will not run, it had been purchased years ago and never taken out of the box! I will be taking it to my Loco mechanic to free up, as I am not about to go inside of that little jewel sized beastie. Also realized i had never posted the original plan pic for my layout.
Well as soon as Verizon gets their act together and manages to forward my pics, I will post them. But anyway, if you look at the track plan above, I am trying to figure out if I can rig the Daphetid branch to be able to be lifted free, if there is a derailment on the outer line. Since it will be a rocky face to the ridge beneath, it would not be hard to hide the separation line, but what other problems could I encounter to plan for?
Oooo! That little Shay is a beauty!! Spookshow showed how delicate they are, and you made a good choice there! I would hesitate to tear into one!! Can't wait to see it running on your layout!!
Wow, supposed to get an order from Trainz today with some track and bridges I have been waiting for. Also, some other goodies [I gotta quit buying engines] including a powered chassis to try to build a galloping goose.
Rather than make Daphetid a lift-out section, I would construct it such that it is open to the back edge (e.g. cantilevered over the lower tracks from staging.) You might even have it open from the side, with a removable side plate to block the view. You could have some supports in there so the Daphetid is not completely cantilevered, while still allowing you to reach in there with your 0-5-0 wrecker. This is what I want to do for a mountain tunnel along the back of my HCD layout. I even have some room for one or two subterranean staging tracks back there, hidden behind/under a mountain ridge. But that would include hidden switches as well... Still pondering on the staging part. Note the entire tunnel need not be accessible from the back/side. You can still poke in through the portal(s) with a pencil, etc. to push a wreck back to where you can access it easily from behind... You will need to keep any light from showing through the portals from the accessible areas behind them. Removable access plates, makeshift "drapes", etc. can take care of that. Lift-outs that include trackage multiply the problems of fit and alignment, to include connecting the tracks. Not insurmountable, but best avoided where practical, IMHO.
Big Jake, as usual, you are making great observations. I wonder if I would be better off using a bridge over the two mainline tracks and having a smaller Daphetid area. Maybe make it look like the edge of a town instead of a station?
Well right now the two rear mainlines are running trouble free, so I do not want to alter them in any way. Did have one change, a piece of straight track that was leading to the switch that controlled the route to Daphetid. It had a rough spot that was causing problems. I really like the power routing of these Kato switches! I also got three motors today, an Atlas 0-8-0 and a Model Power 4-6-2 that I got on really lowball bids! Also got a Tomytec powered chassis, that has now been built in to a Galloping Goose. It really takes off, but a bit noisy. I will post a thread on it once the pictures come through. Have I mentioned how much I detest Verizon around here?
And I decided to try the Shay again and it ran! WOOHOO! It is so cool to see those tiny cranks turn as it runs around On another note, my assistant, my great niece, discovered she like steam locomotives, with those cranks whipping around. She really cranked up the Kato D51 on the layout.
