Call me a masochist... I'll give this a whirl again... My goals for the next six weeks will be to finish wiring the track jumpers, repaint two cars for my free-lanced line, and finish my Atlas signal tower kit... Probably one night's work all together, but I'm just that lazy!
Well, I did it. Signed up and got working. I don't have a 6-week goal, because I am so new at this I have no idea what I can accomplish. So I limited myself to something like: To get off my butt and get something simple operating. After signing up, I finished my layout design, a simple N scale switching layout on a 1' x 4' particle board clogging up the garage. Using the Atlas Right Track software made it easy, although it doesn't have the Peco library available (I wonder why not? Surely Atlas wouldn't let a small-minded thing like competition influence that decision - right? ), and I happened to have a bunch of Peco switches lying around. Anyway, I shoehorned 6 industries onto the plank. Then proceeded to lay the track and wire it. And last night I did my first "delivery" of cars to the paying customers! But space is tight - a single LifeLike SW1200 is all the motive power that fits! LOL So, OK, guys, what do I do next - build the structures, do scenery or what? This far was easy enough - after all I had about 20 years to psych up for it! But now I'm not sure what to do next. Help! William
I'm going to try this. I've been working on a module but I've stalled out lately. The goal for the first week is to get the accumulated junk off the top so I can see it again. That's probably going to be about it to start. The track is down and the basic foam is in place for the scenery. I need to do the wiring and complete the scenery including the structures which are partially built (got to find them). I'll be limited as I also have some stations to complete for the "Operation Road Show" layout to go to Toronto this summer. Doug
BrainS I looked at your goals and they are certainly doable in 6 weeks, but I don't think they could be done in a night, unless it was an all nighter. I find it is easy to mis-judge how long tasks will take us in our modelling world. We forget that those problems that always pop u will materialize. It seems to me that most everything I do has a problem that I wasn't quite expecting. Just ran into that with my son, he is painting a BC Rail Blue down the middle of an HO RDC. The thinner he was told to use at the store was wrong so we had to figure out what to use as thinner. And he hasn't even started painting yet. I have just edited this with more problems on just one project to illustrate how something simple turns into something complex and time management goes out the window. First the paint was too light, a dark same colour was added. Then the paint leached into an ajoining area, after a great deal of head scratching, that was solved. Then touch up in area that was affected in cleaning up the paint leakage. Then a general clean up which twice as long as expected because he wasn't using acrylic paint...and so on... and so on... [ 24. February 2003, 04:16: Message edited by: rsn48 ]
I didn't set my 6 week goal, but since coming to an obstacle on my N scale empire I spent the weekend doing some scenic work on my 4 x 8 HO layout. First time using ground foam, etc.! Certainly gives some life to the layout. Also ordered electrical 'suitcases' to join wires on my N scale layout, they should arrive by the end of the week.
William, If the track is laid and everything is working a expected, then go to scenery. I would maybe consider this layout as a seminar in layout building. The reason I say this is that I bet you have room for a larger layout; I'm not thinking large here, but maybe 3 by 6 or a door size layout that will slide under a bed, or something along those lines. So have fun with this one, learn scenery techniques, and build it as a diorama. So: 1) Scenery 2) Add structures 3) Add people, cars, and trucks 4) Detailing the layout
Thanks for the feedback, Rick. I have the front wall of my garage available, so I have space for about 18 inches by 25 feet. At first I had some grandiose ideas... but my greatest fear is boredom (doing the same thing over and over again) which led me to favor switching, so I decided to go for an urban modern switching layout. I like point to point, because it obviously adds to the to-do list. Just my personal preference. Our architecture (So Cal) is predominantly tilt-up commercial buildings, which I assume will be easy to scratch build from styrene. Natural scenery here is asphalt - I think this is where all the asphalt grows - we export to the world! Seems living in the concrete jungle has its advantages, especially when it comes to modeling your environment! So on Wednesday the scenery begins! William P.S. My wife is in awe of the power of your 6 week challenge. She asked me to relay that to you.
Week One Report Completed the cleanup from the club visit. The broken tree turned into 3 or 4 smaller trees. The Rix Switchstand was rebuilt, using brass tube for the rotating shaft. Turnout 4 was tuned up with some styrene shims, filing the points, and adjusting the throwbar tension. The parts (LEDs) arrived for the last of the block signals. This week, I plan to assemble the Oregon Rail Supply signal bridge, install it on the layout, and begin the wiring job.
Week One Report: I got all of the ordered turnouts in the mail. Originally, I was going to attach a slide switch to the switch stand ties on the turnout. This was not as secure as desired on my test turnout (I used epoxy which only temporarily held to the engineering plastic ties). I am sure that a different glue will work but I decided to mount each slide switch after the turnout is in place securing it to the layout some way. So....(drum roll), I started laying track this weekend (cymbal crash)! I laid about 1/3 of the trackage. So far so good. Week Two Goals: Either build a couple of #4 turnouts or start adding slide switches to the already laid turnouts. I will see what mood hits me this week.
I figured out an excellent way to cross the joint on my modules. I am using Midwest Products HO scale Cork Sheets (I am in N remember) which are about 5mm thick. Along the three Ntrak mains, I cut out the cork where the connecting 5" piece of Atlas track goes. I then cut sheet styrene to fit, and glued it so it was 4mm thick (slightly less than the cork). Then I dropped the styrene into place where the cork was cut out and put the connecting tracks in place over the styrene. It was just about perfect, so I glued the tracks to the styrene (used plastic cement, plastic ties on sheet styrene, so...). I then painted the track as normal, then painted the styrene gray (I am using a gray ballast). After that dried slightly, I ballasted the connecting piece while still in place. After letting it sit overnight and cure up, I cut the ballast at the seams (since I ballasted in place there was overflow), pulled back the rail joiners and the new piece came right out. It is quick and easy to install. So now I have a complete scenicked connector which is difficult to spot. So problem solved, now to do it with the other tracks. I also fixed up a couple of tracks that were damaged. Week 2 Goals: Complete joint connectors for remaining tracks. PS - I hope to get some pictures up of this process soon. [ 24. February 2003, 17:52: Message edited by: Harron ]
William, I'm not sure if you are familiar with David Barrow and his "domino's" method of building, but it sounds like you would be good candidate for his style of layout construction and design. The has track plans for modules about 4 feet long, you pick and choose, then put them together. His construction method is very simple - even I understand it. He uses suit case connectors underneath to attach his feeder wires (wires from track to the "buses" underneath - a bus is just a larger wire taking power around your layout - 2 of em). The way he builds his modules is so designed that you can work on them at your work bench, build the module, add the track work, wire underneath, then walk over and add it to the last one built. Since Barrow and others have done the design work, you know what you end up with will be pleasing. When I suggested that Barrow's methods be flocked to newer beginners who are willing to tackle something a little bit (but not too much - no grades) more advanced in the Layout Design Sig forum, you'd of thought I had suggested an end to Santa Clause. All kinds of testimonials came in for 4 by 8's; it was funny. One of Barrow's features which a lot of newbies don't like is that it is point to point. Tell you wife that I enjoy building layouts in round robin fashion, I go to my buddies home and he comes over to my place. But I have found this internet round robin group can work very effectively as well. I get the most work done on my layouts during my two layout parties a year.
It is Monday the 24th. Almost a week.. the first week. I effectively admit I have not done squat! I have measured my board to see what the replacement control panel size has to be. Plus, I have sketched out my layout ... simplified.. as I want it without the toggle/block controllers. Guess I have done a little bit after all. WELL.. I DID go to the hobby shop today.. purchased an Accurail C&O hopper, some drill bits, Floquil paint, a Rix switch stand, some lumber loads for several of my flat cars, and a pack of Kadee 33" wheelsets (I was getting low). Got to get to that wiring I committed to!
I had hoped to get all the masonite board up for the rest of my backdrop. This is taking longer than I thought, I came upon a problem corner that I had to problem solve, so I have about 6 feet of hard board up, but I only need to install another 6 feet then I am done all my hard board for my backdrop. My goal for the next week is to have all the hard board up. When I have my backdrop done, it will feel so liberating. I will have worked on it on and off, more off than on, hence this layout party for about 3/4 of a year.
I finally got one thing accomplished..I wired a tunrout..I am so pumped right now..it works. For me to do something electrical is considered a wonder of the world in my wifes eyes..now that is done, she is reminding me about that toilet that needs replacing..oh well, one turnout done..many more to go..be back again with more progress..and pics
Week One Report. To reiterate: My six week goal is to ready to lay track on my new layout. Last week I said that I wanted to get the basic benchwork installed by this Monday. That was a big task, and I’m sorry to say I did not complete it. It is about 60 percent complete, and I should finish it by the end of the week. No real problems yet, it is just a lot of lumber to cut, fit and screw together, while making sure it stays level. So this weeks goal is to complete the benchwork, and run the power and control bus wires around the layout. The power bus will be 4 pairs( 2 from the DCC power boosters, one 12v AC, and one 12v DC) of #12 wires. The control bus is 8 wire cable for DCC control. I’ve made this phase of the project easier, by leaving notches in the tops of the 1x4 benchwork. That way it can be dropped in from above before the plywood is put down. I also said last week I would post some pictures of my work, and a track plan. Thanks to David Chong for the help in converting my Cadrail plan to a JPEG file. http://www.railimages.com/album/David%20Wetherbee/Track_Plan_2003.jpg When we started the party last week I had the lighting already installed. It consists of a valence along the edge of the proposed layout, with 4 foot shop lights ($7 apiece at HD) screwed at a 45 degree angle between the valence and the rafters. http://www.railimages.com/album/David%20Wetherbee/Basement_Lighting.jpg The next picture shows the southwest corner of the layout room shot from the doorway in the east wall. http://www.railimages.com/album/David%20Wetherbee/Old_Benchwork.jpg The benchwork is from an old layout I started once upon a time. Notice the “chairail” that runs around the west side. This rail runs around the room at 40” and is completely level. This was a big help, in that I did not have to re-level the room before starting work. The masking tape on the walls marks the distance from the rail to the new benchwork height. My track will be 53” high. In this part of the layout there are no grades. The last pic was taken from the same location tonight at 5 PM. Basically all benchwork in the layout room south of the gas meter is complete. The only parts I have left to build, are the section north of the gas meter, and the section in the shop(outside the door). http://www.railimages.com/album/David%20Wetherbee/Benchwork_Progress_0224.jpg I have read with interest on various threads lately about “suitcase connectors”. Does anybody have a mfr model number? When I did a google search, the only results were the same things I read on MRR threads. I would like to try some out. I have spent way too much time underneath layouts soldering feeders to the bus. Until next week, Dave PS. My wife thinks this party is a great idea too.
Rick, No I am not familiar with Barrow or domino methods. Could you point me in the right direction to learn more? Could you also tell me more about the bus thing? I presume that would reduce the tangled web I wove, right? I tried to find a terminal block but neither my Ace nor Radio Shack had anything like that. So what exactly should I ask for? And suitcase connectors? Never heard of those either. William
Well, I got absolutely nothing accomplished on my railroad this past week. I did discover, however, that having two little helpers underfoot means I don't get a lot done! We did manage to lay some cork and track on the DQ railroad tonight. All the benchwork and subroadbed is done (it was finished yesterday) and we might have all the track layed by next Monday. So I am being somewhat productive! Pat
William, I've had another request for Barrow's domino system so I will have to work a bit to get it to you. A chap in another forum emailed me all the design sections, which was great until I did a hard drive format due to a virus. So give me a couple of days while I search to get Barrow's domino sections back. Suit Case connectors are also called something else, which I can't recall. Go to radio shack and tell them you want to connect lets say 16 guare wire to 20 guage wire, using a plastic connector. They should know what you are talking about. Barrow recommends dcc with his sectional construction. He has developed a system to keep everything as simple and "solid" as possible. DCC keeps the wiring simple. So, if you have lets say a 2 by 4 section, you run two larger guage (can't remember the size of wire) down the center - these two fatter wires are called buses. Then he hooks the feeders to the buses using suit case connectors (to keep soldering down to a minimum). You still have to solder the feeders to the track. By running dcc, and using hand throws instead of powered turnouts, electrical issues are minimal. Also each section becomes its own "block" for electrical problem detection. He has developed a slick system.
I have made some progress in the past week, i painted all the track that will be visible that hadnt been ballasted already (dont need to paint the ballasted track cos i already did) i paint my track by hand with cheap accrylics i bought at a cheapo shop. wiping the rails off with a rag when i get paint on them. i dont advise anyone with alot of track to paint it by hand. I also put some green foam cover on my hill as little bushes, all it needs now is some trees and maybe some campers and wildlife. i still havent purchased all my track yet, so thats probably my next goal. i need about 6 turnouts and a couple of bits of flex track.
Rick, Thanks for the good feedback. I'd be interested in the Barrow domino system when you have the time. Thanks for the bus info, too. I considered DCC for pretty much the same reasons he talked about. Most people use the multi-train benefit as the main reason to implement DCC, but for me the main benefits would have been things like lighting, slow speed control and the ability to split a pair of switchers in tight spots. But in the end I decided I want to not lose focus on the goal of the layout party, i.e. to get my layout up and running. Which it is. Now I need to apply scenery and structures. After that I'll consider whether or not I want to invest the effort into shoehorning decoders into my little LL SW1200 workhorses. I know this is off-topic for this forum, so I'll stick with those comments for now. From the parallel thread regarding painting rails, my wife proposed that "we" (don't you just love it when it becomes that??) paint the rails. Since the suggestion seemed to carry with it the offer of free labor and joint ownership, that became a no-brainer decision. So now the question is, which color do I, oops, scrap that, we use? (I wonder how many real life railroad decisions are made for political reasons? ) So, thanks, guys, for all that input! I have to say I enjoy reading what everybody shares about their layouts. William
