First Time N Scale Layout

chandru May 18, 2020

  1. chandru

    chandru TrainBoard Member

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    I’d like opinions on my first N layout, shown in rough form because I am a total klutz at Anyrail (should’ve just sketched it.) My goal is to have 2 mainlines on a 4.+ x 3’ base. Wanting longer runs than just a loop, I made both lines with a subloop, each with an X crossing to minimize height issues. The crossings are more-or-less atop each other, and, to keep grade to 3.5% or lower, they are vertically separated by only 1.6”. To keep this from looking too weird, I intend to hide that whole mess under a hill. The short spur to the interior is to model a small industrial area. There’s a scissors switch near the station (I couldn’t find it in Anyrail, so I simulated it,) which I hope is not too hard to wire, and power...(Smartswitches, expensive? Peco motors?) I intend to use Peco 55 flex track throughout.

    As far as building, I'm leery of foam as I'm worried about particulates (breathing issues,) so am considering plywood cookie cutter with old fashioned cardboard and plaster strips. Foam looks so much easier, though, is there a non-crumbling-when-cut variety? I couldn't tell from lots of research.

    Thanks.
     

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  2. goatfarmer

    goatfarmer TrainBoard Member

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    Interesting track plan. I'll be starting my first layout in a couple of months I think. I'm gonna practice on a diorama first and then really dig in. I'm looking forward to your progress and make sure to keep the pictures coming.
     
  3. Hardcoaler

    Hardcoaler TrainBoard Member

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    You'll not be able to run a train on each mainline at the same time because both lines cross one another two times on each run around the layout and you'll have collisions. Also, your maximum train length will be limited by the length of track within the small loops on the right side. You're probably aware of all of this, but I thought I'd mention these issues.
     
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  4. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Looks like some steep grades on sharp curves.
     
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  5. Hardcoaler

    Hardcoaler TrainBoard Member

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    Ooops, that should have read left side.
     
  6. chandru

    chandru TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks, all.
    The two mainlines loop over each other at the left side so trains will not collide (but 1.6" may be too low?) It's a very small layout, and the best I could do is 3.3-3.5% grades. One loop is at zero grade throughout (or almost.) I'm planning to run short trains on the elevated loop.
    I considered lowering the brown line (at grade now) to go more under the the other line at the crossings. Maybe 1/2", which then gives a vertical separation of 2" (or I could lower the blue line so grades are 3.0% overall.)
    On a test track, my steam loco just about pulls 6 wagons on a 3.0% grade.

    Curves: I *think* everything is >= 10" radius (as I said, I'm finding Anyrail drawing a pain.) That's the objective, anyway.
    All rolling stock is short, including shorter Era ii passenger cars.
     

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  7. BigJake

    BigJake TrainBoard Member

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    You might try having the brown tracks go down on the left, and the blue tracks going up. That way, instead of 0 and 3.3% grades, you would have -1.7% and + 1.6% grades (or vice versa). 1.6" rail-top to rail-top is pretty low, when you consider rail, ties and roadbed for the upper track have to come out of that 1.6". 2" would be better, and you have more grade to give by splitting it between the two mainlines.
     
  8. chandru

    chandru TrainBoard Member

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    Good idea. I'm a first-timer, and having to do two sets of grades is a little daunting...I like having one line all on the level. But this will be a slow process for me, and I will test out the grade further. Right now, I'm fiddling with using 1 Tortoise to control all four points of the scissors crossover, a challene that suits my one-time mechanical engg. degree.
     
  9. PapaG

    PapaG TrainBoard Member

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    I had the same equation to solve on my layout and I took the approach that Jake is suggesting. Instead of raising everything up I lowered certain sections that were being crossed over by the elevated sections. Visually, it provides some greater interest on a small layout as you have trains declining below grade in some sections while other trains are being elevated above grade in others.

    But, I'm modeling with Foamular sheet insulation in various thicknesses, so if I get it wrong I'm just cutting another piece of foam and continuing on. The Foamular material is somehwat friable, as you'd imagine, but the particulates are rather course, unless you're sanding it. I typically rough cut it with my drywall saw, and then shape it with any number of tools, from scrapers to wire brushes to even rolling or pressing whatever I think will provide a unique surface profile for my needs. I wear a dust mask when I do have to sand it, and it takes a sanding pretter well so long as you stay in the 100 to 120 grit range. I tend to do my cutting and shaping in the garage and clean up my pieces for installation before bringing them inside, and everything cleans up pretty easily with the shop-vac.

    I tried some cookie-cutter construction at first, and discovered that I just didn't know enough about the planning and execution of that method to make that effective for my first layout. I needed something a little more flexible and forgiving, and found both of those features in the foam insulation product. Who knows, maybe there is an application for both of those methods in your layout... the best of both worlds kind of thing.

    Like you, my approach has been about trying to develop some skills as I go. So, I've probably complicated some things more than I needed to, but that's the process. Sometimes you have to paint yourself into a corner just to learn how to get out of it.

    These rock formations around my water feature were all modeled with Foamular... Don't look too closely at the water, I had some problems with that, but I think the rocks and cliffs look pretty good. The way some of that turned out was the result of a happy accident, though. I used a flat white paint that ate at the foam a little. I thought I'd ruined it! But after it dried I discovered these really interesting features that I couldn't have modeled with a cutting tool of any kind. So now, I keep that paint in my inventory, just in case... lol!
     

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    Last edited: May 27, 2020
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  10. chandru

    chandru TrainBoard Member

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    Well, two steps forward. After DAYS of fiddling with my double crossover and its 2-motor linkages, got it to work. But at the last moment, somehow I managed to hit something and one of the turnouts blade has come loose. Has anyone managed to repair this condition? Besides the fact that the crossover is super-expensive (> $100) I'd have to unglue and redo a lot of work, and may screw up again. There seems to be a tiny tab on the bottom of the blade, but I don't see where it was attached. Maybe it was just glued to the crossbar? Any suggestions as to regluing it?
     
  11. traingeekboy

    traingeekboy TrainBoard Member

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    You might try a tiny dab of one of the more flexible glues like Walthers Goo.

    What brand switch is it? You might examine the functioning pieces for clues.
     
  12. chandru

    chandru TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks. I finally got the point rails out and found a tiny (tiny!) tab which held the blade in. Got it back together after what seemed like hours. But I guess the damage is invisible, as it does not move back & forth either smoothly or all the way either side. The first pic is of the completed linkages with MP5s. Given the fragility of the linkages, I decided to abandon it for a Kato 20-210 crossover with integrated motors. Don't like the way it looks, but lot easier to drop in place.

    I used 3/16" ply with 1x3 battens. This seems plenty strong to me, and satisfies my desire to minimize weight as much as possible. Though I’d intended to do cookie-cutter for the raised track, my first trial cuts on scrap made me abandon the idea; the two tracks are too close together for comfort. I got WS 3% foam inclines (second photo.) I see no problems with tight curves, having run stock over 9" or slightly tighter ones. Also, because the vertical separation is 1.5", I cantilevered the top track where it passes over the lower one, giving another 1/4" of clearance (visible at bottom left, I might glue some plastic strips to the edges of the sleepers to for beam strength), but I don't see why I needed to. As this will be hidden, appearance is not an issue, and my stock *easily* fits under the original 1.5".

    Everything is glued, including track, using wood or foam glue. Caulking would've been more painful, and the glue bond is quite strong. Flex track rocks! Even incline and curve transitions seem to self-form.

    I had bought Tortoises long ago, which I now grew to hate…bulky, impossible to solder, and no easy way to mount horizontally as I needed. Also when mounted vertically, they’d be beyond my 1x3 supports (only a problem when building as I have it supported on a table, but still….) I splurged for MP5 motors, which were great: small, settable for vertical or horizontal throw, and comes with push-in wire connectors. A bit noisy, even though I’m running them on 9V instead of 12V. Highly recommended.

    Finally, a question (as I'm beginning to feel this hobby is not for me.) Been practicing with a foam knife and having difficulty controlling. I need to shave down the "embankments," at a steep angle. Do you use the U-shaped thing or the pointy one? Perhaps I should've done this before putting in rail? I didn't because, what with my eyeballing everything, I needed the rail in to decide where to slice.
     

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  13. gmorider

    gmorider TrainBoard Member

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    This seems a little late to say, chandru. I think you are already aware of the need for ventilation when hot wire cutting. Just a safety FYI. Also, my N-scale goto was always blue foam. As I did not have a hot wire cutter, I worked with utility knife, small sureform cutter and other blades. I found static electricity made the chips stick everywhere. I sometimes used wet paper towels to wipe them up. The water discharged the static. After that, a small vac. PapaG, I really like what you have done and the way it turned out. Great effects. Looks real. (y)
     
  14. Joe Lovett

    Joe Lovett TrainBoard Member

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    Chandru, I like to use a keyhole saw to insulation foam, it cuts and carves real fast but does make a little mess. A shop vac does a good job cleaning it up. I have two types of hot wire cutters but prefer the saw it's a lot faster.

    Joe
     
  15. PapaG

    PapaG TrainBoard Member

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    Thank you Sir! I wish the water had turned out a little better, but I think with a little attention with some Woodland Scenics Water Effects and some drybrushing I can disguise most of the defects.

    The inspriation for the rocks and cliff faces was from one of my favorite places, the Black Hills of South Dakota. I've been going there for the Sturgis Rally and have been looking at these features around Sheridan Lake for more than 20 years. It was kinda fun to try and capture some of that vibe on the layout.
     

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    Last edited: Jun 13, 2020
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