Frustrated with trying to remove the shell from your diesel loco? Here's an interesting method to try: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJw8lU4zN9k&feature=email Have Fun... :tb-cool:
Ohhhhhhhhh...thats just wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyy to easy to actually work. Aint it ?? :tb-wacky: * OK...I just tried this on my GP 38-2. I wanna scream after all these years of *$%^#&%$#%$#^ #^$ !!!! It really did work great...LOL !! .
Yeah.... till it slips back while falling and you pop a $3-5 MT coupler out of its pocket with that box edge, breaking its rear tabs...... but worth a try on something cheep
It won't slip back, the shell does not have enough mass to do that given the resistance of the dimples. Breaking of the coupler? Maybe, if not positioned right, but who's fault is that?
Yeah, try that on a LL/Walthers GP38-2... not happening! Seriously, is it that hard to take a shell off? :tb-wacky: -Mike
Adding here and cut/pasting summary of what was said on this same topic and YouTube video technique, over on the Atlas Forum. Good technique, just need to be aware of how to modify for many N scale locos that are not 'road switcher hood diesels (or the Kato or Atlas RS1/2/3....) ---------------- This is great explanation of long-known, but not widely known technique; thx to the author Eric Hall for putting this on YouTube for us all. I hope that users will recognize there are commonly found locos that need modified technique, (or in some cases, don't use this technique at all).... so that that those that don't know any better, won't accidentally damage their pilots. Some of these locos include (there are others): * Kato F3, F7, E8, PA1 (use the 'toothpick' technique as the shells use positive-locking tabs) * Kato F3, F7 (also must remove the front coupler clip first) * Kato C44-9W's with ditch lights (have to be careful to avoid damaging the plastic light tubes to the front ditch lights, make sure you do the *rear* end of the loco first on this technique) * Athearn FP45/F45 (*must* unscrew the McHenry couplers first) * Lifelike SD7s - completely different method for dis-assembly, these are the older plastic frame models, but many still might have those (let me know if someone wants instructions on that) add kato f40ph to the don't-use-this-method. ----------------------- --------------------------------------------- I'm pretty sure this procedure won't work on an Atlas RS-3 or RSD4/5 until *after* you remove the cab first, as the cab on those locos 'wraps around' a mechanism protrusion. See the exploded parts diagram for these locos (that's good idea for *any* loco. ---------- ---------------------------------------------- This is not take anything away from Eric - vast majority of N scale diesel shells remove just like he showed - I like his use of the jewel case box, that's an improvement over the way that someone else taught me to do this technique. -------------------------------------------- Here's a similar way to do exactly same technique, some may like this as well if they don't want the mechanism to 'drop all the way to the jewel case floor' (personally, I don't think that is a problem): http://home.comcast.net/~atsf_arizona_2/Numberboard_aa_removing_shell.jpg ---------------------------------------------- Eric, again, thx for the YouTube, and Oscar, for sharing it with us. Eric's got some great videos there on YouTube! -------------------- --------
Now I know why my brother was the physics wiz in our family. Seems to make sense to me after someone else figured it out. Papa
