The reason for mentioning 15" is that by adding one 15 to the 22"Radius allowed me to fit in a tight area, this will not happen now that I have cut an entrance and exit in and out of the closet so I can stay with the 22
Here is my final plan and the track has been nailed to the base in most parts, I decided not to raise the mainline also there will be no grades to climb as I just do not have the confidence to try and figure it out. The last photo show's 3 switches not connected , I had an Atlas Ladder track in the main but had a dickens of a time getting the loco through the switch. I have run the loco around the track 4 times to see where I am weak. I am going to use scenery but it will be flat land stuff except where track goes into the closet I will put a tunnel portal there. Where the two locos are at I thought about a turntable with fueling and repair there.
Hello Kevin, Thank you for the encouragement, my next step is to make sure I have current flowing unimpeded, I have had a very positive run around with the loco and just a few jerkies as I call them so now it will be to solder the track. Thanks again
Jimmy, It's cool to see how far this has come since your original post! It won't be long and you will be busy running trains. My only suggestion on the plan would be to straighten out the two sidings in the back right corner, point them more to the isle. You can put the industry behind, it will be easier to uncouple cars and smooth out the corners.
Karl, help me out here (straighten out the two sidings in the back right corner) Top of picture is West. Jim Cushing, WI
I'm liking it. My only change would be to leave the upper loop empty for now. Build the rest and the mainlines over there and then see what feels right as far as filling in that other section.
Hey Karl, I gave your suggestion a try but it will not work at that angle so I tried another way and came off the mainline and went due North into a 3 way.
The woodland scenics riser packaging shows what length is needed to get to certain hieight. Also shows what thickness of foam is needed as well. Something like 1" height you need about 1 foot length. Different grades need different lengths. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free
2% = 1" in 50" does that mean it will take 50" to get to the 1" height? My layout does not look promising.
"2% = 1" in 50" does that mean it will take 50" to get to the 1" height?" Yes! In N-scale, to get nearly 2 inches of clearance between the top of rail heads and the underside of any bridge over the lower track using a maximum grade of 2% will take about 8 feet; and in HO, to get almost 4 inches will take 16 feet...and you should probably add another foot at each end to allow a vertical easement into and out of the grade. When determining the distances available, keep in mind that you do not want to make any changes in grade under any portion of a turnout... but it IS okay to have both ends of the TO on a 0% grade or both ends on a 2% grade. Just deliberately avoid having the two ends of a turnout on different grades, because even a very slight change beneath the TO will cause bowing up or dipping down which will lead to derailments. "My layout does not look promising." Can you post a track plan that shows where you would like to have a grade and/or where you might want one track to pass above another? Sometimes, relatively small changes in a plan will provide enough change in elevation to ensure sufficient clearance. 1. Are you working in HO or in N? 2. What is the height of your tallest car/loco as it sits on track --include thickness of roadbed if necessary? 3. If you plan to have a bridge supporting the upper track, how thick is the bridge (i.e., what is the height of the underside of the bridge)? This becomes especially critical if the track plan does not provide a very long run from where the lower track passes under the upper track to where the upper track passes over the lower track, because, to gain sufficient clearance between the lower railheads and the underside of the bridge, the grade may need to be increased. (For example, with a 2% grade, an extra 1/4 inch in clearance means 1 foot less run is needed to provide sufficient clearance; and a 2.5% grade will reach the same height as a 2% grade, but will do so in about 4/5ths as long a run.)
Here is my table as you can see it is a bit of a mess If any one can help I would sure appreciate it.
Round your corners. The contour will make it look more appealing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free
Rounding the corners is an aesthetic fix and does nothing for the layout, I am on the fence about installing a turn table the other item is modeling flat land. I have a couple of motorized gizmos like log unload-er, ore/coal dump yet even though it say's HO just seems to be a bit over powering.
