It looks like if I try what @BigJake says - it'll just puff the layout on each end closer to the edges of the layout with the current curves I have. I will probably buy the necessary pieces to do the layout @CSX Robert has designed and see which I like. I'll pick up the Kato power pack too so we can do some running. My current loco is a 4 axel $30 job: Obviously I need a DCC loco. I’d really like the UP with the little flashing yellow beacon over the cab, but big buxxxx!
Why DCC??? You got one engine and a loop of track. DCC is an expensive overkill in such a situation. If you want, get a locomotive that is DCC ready but run it on analog DC. Or get a DCC locomotive that is designed to run on either DC or DCC. Most, if not all, new DCC locomotives are designed to run that way.
1. I want sound and all the bells and whistles 2. I want the experience to learn DCC 3. MAYBE the layout gets expanded
So, I did another one - I've really got to stop, I've got some work to do. This one does squeeze it in using 249mm curves; however, you do loose some space for the industry. I'm not sure how much would be needed there but this version leaves about 4 inches between the S60r piece and the edge. That's about 53 scale feet, so it's getting pretty tight. I didn't realize Kato has a shorter bridge (it is a plate girder instead of a Warren truss, so a different design), so I used all Kato pieces on this one. There is a little more misalignment than I like on the back side, but I still think it's doable. You could actually get a better alignment by replacing the top left R249-45 (the one in red) with an R282, of course you 'd be using single a piece out of a package of four. A couple of words about misalignments - several smaller pieces have more play than a few larger ones. While I generally prefer as few joints as possible, in an area like I show on the back side here I would likely use 4 x 124's instead of 2 x 248's,or maybe even 8 x 62's, to get a little more flexibility. The other thing, in case you don't know, Kato has an adjustable length straight piece (20-050) that you can use when you can find the exact length you need.
Hi Robert - very good to know and I appreciate your hard work. If you are a coffee drinker and like a good quality coffee send me a DM and I'll send you a bag from our local roaster - Black and White Roasters - Wake Forest - for your effort. Chris
Having at it is being my approach lately. I have 4 books on how it's done. The most understandable is by Nigel Burkin "Digital Command Control for Railway Modellers". He covers both American and British approaches. Which are very similar. www.crowood.com
Funny, I got almost exactly the same layout trying to do that! Not much room around the edges (probably want a molding, plexiglass, etc. to keep derailed rolling stock from falling off the edges). However, I used a left switch at lower left, and two 19R15 curves to reach the same bridge, without a nasty S-curve if you navigate to the siding. Great minds think alike! The whole layout is shoved up where there's no longer room for the station outside the loop, but there's still room for the double ended siding and the diagonal stub siding/industry. I've always tried to put (at least) two complementary industries on a layout, so they can create railcar traffic between them (one is customer of the other, etc.), and at least some simple operations. Of course an interchange track (the double-ended siding up top) can be the "universal industry" providing/consuming railcar content to/from "elsewhere".
I'm leaning toward the back industry being where I put the paint factory and the only industry. I was thinking of this from a viewing standpoint if the bottom is the front, and you're looking into the layout - I think having an industry there in the front will be somewhat distracting - I kind of want your eyes to go deep into the l layout and scan left to right.
So, put some trees in front of the front industry, so they have to peek around/over/behind them... Nothing draws the viewer in like a hint of something extra to be discovered. With a simple, loop track plan, it is important to have various places and things for the trains to go and do, besides orbit.
There'd probably be a road leading to the front industry, and a road can use a billboard, also screening details from view, while also being an additional point of interest itself (besides the obligatory patrol car hiding behind it, trying to catch a speeder.)
@CSX Robert If we nix the parts I have X'ed and want to maintain this same basic route and shape - what pieces would get substituted in where the ? are? Or would I just need to change that turn out piece? Thank you, Chris
Just put another order of Unitrack $102. lol Started with standbard bachmann loop track. Bought a bachmman ez track loop. Bought Jimmy's Unitrack layout. Changing Unitrack layout radically. HAHA. I'm going to get the Guiness record for track layout changes.
My existing layout is a 3'x6' coffee table I made when I was an apartment dweller. Wife was never fond of it so when we got a house it found it's way to the man cave. When I started it in the late 90's I just wanted to run trains and went simple with a couple of unitrak bridges, crossover and atlas flex track to make a dual oval (more shaped like a bean). While the flex track made layout a bit simpler I didn't fully appreciate the issue of joins in a turn and as a result those are the weak points which tend to be a problem with longer locos. When I got the idea to do another layout I was considering using all unitrack but for me I'm not fond of the joints which show up due to the lack of tie detail at the ends. There are ways to cover that up though but after seeing and using Fleischmann track I decided to go that route and have slowly collected the pieces parts I need since their stuff is a bit more expensive. I mention all of this for several reasons: if you really get into trains you might find yourself wanting more in a short time after you complete and start running trains on a small 2x4 layout. Not only are you limited to trains you can run due to the tight radii turns but it can get boring just doing loops. Ask me how I know. If I knew then what I know now I would have designed my layout completely different. Not necessarily a bowl of spaghetti but a more interesting layout with industries as others here have mentioned. The coffee table affords more space and if you like to work with wood and have access to the appropriate tools you can have a dual function piece of furniture for limited floor space. The upper track at the gravel pit (left side) was an afterthought that came about after damage from a move. It's not powered or connected to the rest of the track so just scenery.
That's a really nice piece! I like it a lot. Well done. Coffee table layout is in my mind. As for the foresight - well I've had the privilege of watching YouTubes for a few months and gathering ideas and watching videos about common mistakes so I have thought about most of what you're talking about. This 2x4 layout is for a few purposes: 1. See if I like the hobby 2. Portable 3. Learn the ins and outs of all of the skills needed to do railroading - electrical, mechanical, wood, art, etc. 4. See what mistakes I do or don't make I respect all the veterans and this place could not have been a better resource and I owe everyone a cup of coffee minimum. I suspect there will be more layouts - a 4x8 HO and/or a coffee table.
