Converting to Micro-Trains Couplers

BrianS Aug 16, 2000

  1. BrianS

    BrianS E-Mail Bounces

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    I've decided to take the plunge and convert my rolling stock to Micro-Trains couplers. I think, from reading their conversion guide, that I have all my cars figured out, but I thought it best to run it by all of you first.

    The majority of my rolling stock is made up of Atlas and MDC cars. There are a few odd-balls thrown in (Deluxe Innovations coal gons to be specific), but those shouldn't be any different I don't think. I'd like to keep the couplers body-mounted since I do have some sharp curves, so I had planned on using 1128's on the majority of my cars. There are a few cars that will require new trucks, since I'm a stickler for details and can't stand Bettendorf trucks on a modern layout. (I know, most others wouldn't catch it, especially my non-railfan friends, but it really bothers me.) For those I plan on getting a ten pack of the 1030 roller bearing trucks with short extension couplers.

    Although my rolling stock was basically the same, my motive power is anything but. I have two Kato C30-7's (which will get 1015's ), a Life-Like SD7 (which will also get 1015's), a Life-Like F40PH (which will get 1128's), an Atlas RS-2 (which will get a coupler conversion kit), and a Con-Cor SW1200 (which will get 1021/1022's). For those of you that have those particular engines, which couplers did you use?

    Finally, as someone just starting out in the world of Micro-Trains, what new tools should I acquire beyond the basic beginners tools that I currently have? I suppose a height gauge would be in order, but what else will I need? Would it be wise to invest in the coupler starter kit (1050), or could I save myself some money and just get a few assorted tools? Thanks for all the help!

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    Brian Schmidt
    railohio@hotmail.com
    ICQ #21630753
    AIM - railohio
     
  2. Maxwell Plant

    Maxwell Plant TrainBoard Member

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    I think you'll do just fine buying the multi-packs. One thing to point out...
    TRUCK MOUNTED COUPLER: Draft gear stays on the truck and swings with the curve. Good for tight radius' and easy to install.
    BODY MOUNTED COUPLER: Draft gear is attached to the body or frame of the car. The coupler will swing very little, limiting the minimum radius the car can operate on. More prototypical in appearance but for N-Scale, this is not very noticable.

    Your locomotives will be body mounts but unless they are SD90MACS, CW44-9's or anything that is long, you shouldn't have any problems with tight curves.

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    BNSF RAILFAN-TO-THE-MAX!
    Brent Tidaback, Member #234 and a N-Scaler to boot!

    [This message has been edited by Maxwell Plant (edited 16 August 2000).]
     
  3. bmalonef45

    bmalonef45 TrainBoard Member

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    I have been converting my collection slowly because it is costly. I have been buying the packs with truck mounted couplers. You can get these in short, medium, and long extensions for various cars etc... Like the previous post said you really don't notice the difference in n-scale between truck and body mount, besides, the microtrains truck run really smooth and perform much better than atlas trucks and most others out there. In my opinion performance is what matters. If you can go to train shows like gats you can usually find these for about 33.00 a pack others retail for about 40.00 to 45.00. each pack converts 10 cars.
    Hope this helps
    Bryan
     
  4. bnfan99

    bnfan99 Guest

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    if you look in nscale or model railroader you can find the 10 packs for 28.99. i hope i'm not spamming but mbklein sells them for that price
     
  5. upguy

    upguy TrainBoard Member

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    Micro-Trains has a downloadable list of which couplers fit which engines that you may find helpful.

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    Rett
     
  6. Gats

    Gats TrainBoard Member

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    <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by BrianS:
    The majority of my rolling stock is made up of Atlas and MDC cars. There are a few odd-balls thrown in (Deluxe Innovations coal gons to be specific), but those shouldn't be any different I don't think. I'd like to keep the couplers body-mounted since I do have some sharp curves, so I had planned on using 1128's on the majority of my cars.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
    Hi Brian,

    You have me a little confused. MTL1128's are a Rapido replacement that fits into the truck, not a body mount coupler. Personally, I've had little success with that type of coupler.
    If you are talking about body mounting, I find using 1025's (unassembled) or 1023 (assembled) fills most body-mount requirements. I have used these on Atlas, most MDC cars, and deLuxe Innovations' Coalporters using the original trucks and are fine with radii 11" up. Lesser radii I can't vouch for. Cars like tank cars I have gone with a replacement MTL truck.
    You have the locomotives covered.

    <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Finally, as someone just starting out in the world of Micro-Trains, what new tools should I acquire beyond the basic beginners tools that I currently have? I suppose a height gauge would be in order, but what else will I need? Would it be wise to invest in the coupler starter kit (1050), or could I save myself some money and just get a few assorted tools? Thanks for all the help!<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

    Not knowing what tools you have, a jeweller's screwdriver that fits the 00-90 screws is a must. The height gauage also.
    Since I screw the body-mount couplers in place so MTL's 00-90 tap and drill set is needed. If you have a good engineering store close by, see what they have in the way of taps, #58, and #62 drills. It might work out cheaper to get them from there instead of a packaged set. Warning - if you are a hardwareholic, these stores are dangerous - far too many cool toys to drool over. [​IMG]
    A second tap wouldn't go astray if you are converting MDC gear - metal frame - can be tough on the tap.
    I had to go to MTL's site to see what is in the starter kit. The reverse tweezers are handy. I do have a coupler assembly jig for doing the 1025's, which it seems to be set up for, and it sees a bit of use though, if you have the dexterity, you can manage without it. A piece of .010" styrene can replace the pin height gauge and I've never used graphite in the couplers to date.
    But, If you go with the starter set you have the couplers for the Kato and LL locos, and one end of the F40PH, already! [​IMG]

    Hope this is of help.

    Gary.


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    Gary A. Rose
    The Unofficial TC&W page
    N to the Nth degree!
     
  7. BrianS

    BrianS E-Mail Bounces

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    I just realized that some of the cars I ordered come with MDC knuckle couplers in addition to the standard Rapido couplers. How do these rate compared with M-T couplers? Are they totally compatible with the M-T couplers or will I have to replace them, too? I don't plan on using the magnetic uncoupling feature, but rather do it by hand. What works best for manual uncoupling? I know that Rix Products has an uncoupling tool out, but I've never seen one in the local stores and I know it wouldn't be worth ordering by itself (surely that wouldn't make a minimum order by itself). I read in an old Model Railroader that kniting needles could be used, but would any modifications be required? Any other things I could use to uncouple my cars with? Thanks for the help!

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    Brian Schmidt
    railohio@hotmail.com
    ICQ #21630753
    AIM - railohio
     
  8. Gats

    Gats TrainBoard Member

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    I can't comment on the compatibility of MDC and MTL couplers, but for uncoupling MTL's by hand I've used the RIX uncoupler, small flat-bladed jewellers screwdrivers, and the small bamboo BBQ scewers you'll find in the supermarket. They all seem to work equally well once you get the hang of it.
    Maybe hit someone you know for a couple of the skewers rather than buying 100? (then again, you'd be hard pressed losing 100 of them!) [​IMG]

    Gary.

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    Gary A. Rose
    The Unofficial TC&W page
    N to the Nth degree!
     
  9. porkypine52

    porkypine52 TrainBoard Member

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    Brian
    Go for it. You will not be sorry after you change over to Micro-Trains couplers. Get them adjusted and mounted right, they will work as good or better than Micro-Trains advertises. One thing I would advise you to not mix body mount couplers with truck mount couplers. One way or the other. I prefer body mount, for several reasons. Looks better, more and more of N-Scale engines are being made with body mount couplers and the main reason is that body mount will let you operate your layout better. Let me explain, when you body mount couplers, you will pull on the car body not on the trucks. This makes a big difference if you are trying to back up a block of cars. If you try to back a cut of cars into a yard you will be pushing against the trucks, if you have truck mounted couplers. If you body mount couplers you will push against the body of the cars and the trucks will follow the cars. I know that it can be a pain in the tail to body mount some types of couplers, but it is worth it if you want good operation on the layout

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    Let's Go Run Trains
    MARK
     
  10. Alan

    Alan Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    <font color="3333cc">Body mounted couplers are ok if you have generous radius curves, but I have curves down to 11", and use all truck mounted couplers (except locomotives) with no problems whatever.</font>

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    Alan

    The perfect combination - BNSF and N Scale!

    www.ac-models.com
    Andersley Western Railroad
    Alan's American Gallery
     
  11. rray

    rray Staff Member

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    Since I had to start my railroad collection all over after losing it in a nasty divorce, I only have bought 3 reefers, and 3 cabeese, that needed conversion. Everything else is Microtrains rolling stock. I just like the magnetic coupler operation so much better than Rapido stuff, that I avoid buying anything that don't have MT couplers. There is a few exceptions to be made... Newer Atlas caboose, and Intermountain laser engraved drop bottom gons. [​IMG]
     
  12. BC Rail King

    BC Rail King E-Mail Bounces

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    Are you buying the locomotive couplers already built? I didn't. Big mistake! I have was about to phone Micro Trains and make them come to my house and do it for me! I mean it does get better when you are use to it, but for the first 7 locos it sux!

    I didn't notice any one saying it, so I will. IF you make the couplers yourself, by a jig! (spelling?) it will make you happier in the long term in my opion.

    After saying that though, I will admit, I buy couplers pre-built now.

    Happy Railroading!

    Dane N. [​IMG]

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    BCRailKing@Canada.com

    Teen Association of Model Railroaders-
    for information, contact Dane N. at TAMR2860@Canada.com
    http://www.tamr.org

    "I was DC, and went DCC!"
     

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