1. Stephane Savard

    Stephane Savard TrainBoard Member

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    I've uploaded the 40' hi-cube model and the 53' models. Note that I haven't yet tried printing the 53' model, and not sure if I will. I'm getting rather tired of printing containers :D. Maybe someday if I ever find some Canadian Tire decals in n-scale! I've ordered decals for all of the 20' and 40' containers I've already printed (twenty-three 40' standard, ten 40' hicube, and twenty 20'). I'm not exactly looking forward to painting and decaling this many containers though :eek:
     
  2. WolfWorks

    WolfWorks TrainBoard Member

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    Thank you for these. I already have a print of the high cubes drying and a set of bases for them just finished printed. I will let them drain and clean in the morning.
    I might try the 53’, I noticed it did not come with the skirts. If I can figure out how to add them that is
     
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  3. Stephane Savard

    Stephane Savard TrainBoard Member

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    Yeah, sorry about that, like I said, I never got around to printing that one, but I figured I might as well release it without the supports I never got around to making. If someone still wanted to print it, they'd just need to make their own supports for it.
     
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  4. Stephane Savard

    Stephane Savard TrainBoard Member

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    You know, Sumner is really making me look bad, with all his 3d printing designs he's churning out. Me, it takes me months to complete a single project! :ROFLMAO: Would help if I worked on my projects every day except of only a few times a week.

    I finally finished painting my containers today!

    IMG_20221117_170930511.JPG

    I'm pretty happy with how they turned out. I have decals for Hapag-Lloyd, Evergreen, OOCL, Maersk, Hanjin, "K" line, Tex, NedLloyd, P&O and MSC. (well, I also have Genstar, APL, older MOL, and NOL on the decal sheets, but I've never seen any of these in Québec). That's the paint colours I went with, though I did not have any references except for photos. I went for "good enough". I mean look online at containers and you can find every shade imaginable for each brand. So I mixed dropped of different colours until I got close and good enough for me. There are three different tones of grey here, but not by much! What I finished today was the silver door details. That alone took four or five hours in total.

    Still, I think compared to a commercial Walther's Evergreen container, mine are not too shabby! I'm happy with how it turned out!

    IMG_20221117_171521017.JPG

    So now I need to apply a clear coat, let dry, and then it's decal time. I gonna be sick of decals before I'm done, I'm sure :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
     
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  5. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

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    [​IMG]

    They look great, can't tell which is the commercial one or yours. I'm guessing the better one is yours. You do a lot more detailed work than I do which for sure takes time. I have a feeling most have no idea how many hours you have into one of those and the materials you've used before you put the files up and someone can get a good print the first time.

    Being retired and only wanting to work now on things I like to do I have an unfair advantage as I'm working on the railroad almost every day and a lot of days 5-6 hours. I wouldn't of had this time to spend 13 years ago.

    Sumner
     
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  6. SLSF Freak

    SLSF Freak Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Those look excellent, Stephane!
     
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  7. WolfWorks

    WolfWorks TrainBoard Member

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    Great work, out of the park, I hope to get mine past primer lol
     
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  8. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    Amazing work, I will take 4 please :) J/K!
     
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  9. samusi01

    samusi01 TrainBoard Member

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    Very nice work.
     
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  10. Stephane Savard

    Stephane Savard TrainBoard Member

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    Please put me out of my misery! :ROFLMAO:

    IMG_20221127_122013380_HDR.JPG

    After a week, on and off, I managed to complete ten containers (the ones standing up in the background). The ones lying down in the foreground only have the decals on the one side (and a few with decals on the non-door end). But those sides aren't done, oooooh no they aren't done! No, I still have to get those $!@#^!ing decals to sit down into the corrugations. Those decals just won't conform to shape very well, and all sorts of air bubbles will form underneath. The decals are cracking, making a mess too. Some of the decals are not so bad, like the black or the white letting, but the OOCL reds and the P&O NedLloyds, that $%#ing Maersk star :mad:, those just about refuse to bend, and just crack, even with microsol (the strong stuff). So it's just application after application of microsol to try to get them to lie flat.

    Still, they look fine from about a half a meter away. The best will sit in the well cars I own, and the rest will stack in the yard with the ugliest sides hidden inside the stack. Maybe some weathering and rust stains can hide a lot of the worse.

    Lesson learned though, next time I decide to take a 3D printing project of a whole lot of multiples units of anything. I like these projects, but working on the same thing over and over and over is dull... and I'm not halfway finished yet :( The best thing keeping me going is seeing how much containers cost.. I think I basically traded time for 500$ worth of containers from commercial sources (total cost to me right now is probably between CAD 15-20$ worth of resin and 100$ for paint and decals)
     
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  11. BNSF FAN

    BNSF FAN TrainBoard Supporter

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    Looks like you are doing a great job on those Stephane! Decals can be time consuming for sure. I've done a few projects that took a lot of decals so I feel your pain :)
     
  12. Bruceg503

    Bruceg503 TrainBoard Member

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    Stephane, Perfect job. A++
     
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  13. rhikdavis

    rhikdavis TrainBoard Member

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    How about an application of heat, like from a hair dryer, to soften up the decal paper......
     
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  14. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    Just think about the money, money , money ( singing some song about money to myself ) you saved and set them aside for a bit and work on something else IF possible? And run trains :)

    Song is called Price Tag IF you care :) Which I doubt most do. Don't Google it if you hate new music :)
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2022
  15. Stephane Savard

    Stephane Savard TrainBoard Member

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    Today I applied the last decal! :D:D:D

    I still need to apply a varnish, but gonna take a small break and let everything dry well before that. In the meantime, got started on a new project... Adding DCC and sound to a Kato RDC. I only got the one to do! :ROFLMAO:
     
  16. Stephane Savard

    Stephane Savard TrainBoard Member

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    I forgot to answer you about this.. this won't work with waterslide decals, they need to be wet. Plus, I'd be scared if blowing then away! :D

    After applying the decal, it can be softened using special liquids (microset and microsol). It's just tricky because softened decals can be so easily damaged.

    Anyway, look at real containers, sometimes the markings are damaged anyway!


    Thanks everyone for your encouragement and kind words, I'll post some final pictures soon!
     
  17. GGNInNScale

    GGNInNScale TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks for the link to Matt's.
     
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  18. GGNInNScale

    GGNInNScale TrainBoard Member

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    Well, I broke down and bought an Anycubic Mono 2 with the other stuff today. I am giving them a second chance... stay tuned. I did get a full refund on the dead unit, and PayPal covered the return shipping.
     
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  19. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

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    That should be good!! My first one (one with bad touch screen) was the one before that I think and it printed good. I haven't used it since fixing it and the M2 I have now prints really well also. I see the Mono 2 as low as $149, that is a great price to get into this.

    I bought 2-3 different resins at first and haven't tried them as I got Siraya Tech 'Build' Sonic Grey after seeing people have good results with it and love it. I'm getting great prints with it and if you don't over-cure it (I did) it doesn't seem to get very brittle yet is great on small details. The prints in my other posts are with it. I'm using Chitubox and downloaded Siraya Tech's print files that are specific to the printer and that resin and haven't tweaked anything. Great prints from the start so I'd highly recommend that. It has all been an easier process than I had imagined but I feel that is because I downloaded the print files that are for the printer and resin instead of trying to figure that all out from scratch.

    Sumner
     
  20. Glenn Butcher

    Glenn Butcher TrainBoard Member

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    When I started I got Elegoo's setting spreadsheet, all the combinations of settings for their resins and printers. I think it has helped immeasurably in isolating the problems I've run into. I'm eventually going to explore printing "functional" parts (doing them in brass for the first iterations), so I'll be trying stronger resins, but I think it was good to cut my teeth on simple...
     
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