Question Connecting and isolating tracks, best way?

Reptilian Feline Aug 21, 2020

  1. Reptilian Feline

    Reptilian Feline TrainBoard Member

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    When I was planning my N-scale layout I looked at the metal and plastic rail joiners. I think Peco makes them. I looked up the similar things for Z-scale in a Swedish online model railway shop. There are some specially made for Rokuhan, but since I'm going with Märklin and Peco flex track, those are out of the question. What I found were sets of 10 metal ones and 20 plastic ones. One pack is about 9 bucks US or Euro (90 SEK if you want exact price). I've read that some solder the joints but that heat difference can play havoc with that. Our house gets really hot in summer, and there is nothing we can do about that. I'm thinking the rail joiners are the way to go.
    Then I wonder about the plastic ones for isolation. I'm doing cab control DC (or will be doing, really), so I will section the track into blocks. And I have to consider all the turnouts, the runaround loop and cross-over switches. I've seen people cut the rail with a Dremel tool. Is the cut enough, or do I need to insert a plastic rail joiner at those places? Or maybe just a spot of glue?
    If this has been properly explained in a thread here, please link to it. No need to write twice.
     
  2. JoeS

    JoeS TrainBoard Member

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    I use marklin plastic joiners to isolate with no issues.
     
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  3. tjdreams

    tjdreams TrainBoard Member

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    If you are dealing with a wide range of temperature changes in the house summer to winter i would use the Marklin and/or Peco rail joiners they will work just fine. For isolating the rails again the Marklin or Peco plastic joiners will work fine, or you could cut a small gap with a Dremel. If you are worried that the gap closing up do to temperature change or the track moving a drop of glue will help. just be sure to file/sand any excess glue down to match the shape/size of the rail. Personally i prefer the Peco joiners and cutting the rail method but have used Marklin's metal and plastic joiners with equal success.

    David
     
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  4. Curn

    Curn TrainBoard Member

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    I find when connecting curved flex track to a turnout, it is better to solder the joints than to use the plastic joiners. The plastic joiners often have too much play in them to hold the gauge and alignment. Then take a jewelers saw or cut off wheel and cut isolation gaps in the flex further back after all the glue is dry.

    -Matt
     
  5. Reptilian Feline

    Reptilian Feline TrainBoard Member

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    I understand flex track can be a bit temperamental.
    I should smack myself on the head for not realising that Peco of course have joiners for their 6.5 mm flex track. Now I just have to find out if someone sells them in Sweden. I know the track is available.

    Just checked the Peco website, they make metal rail joiners for Z but not plastic ones. I guess I'll go with the Märklin ones.
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2020
  6. Svein-Martin Holt

    Svein-Martin Holt TrainBoard Member

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    I use different types of joiners. The Märklin metal joiners are a little hard to use on Peco, at least you need to use a small screwdriver to "open up" the joiner a little bit, to have it enter the rail. I prefer to use the Peco joiner on Peco, they are not so tight. I also use the MTL and the new Atlas joiner with good result. Normally I solder near all of the joiners.
    I mix all type of tracks, like Marklin and Peco in hidden areas and MTL or Atlas. I use Atlas and MTL in visible areas because of the correct spacing for my US-type Layout.
    I love the flextrack, but use Märklin section tracks in some hidden areas if I have the pieces available, where I need one of the radiuses, like 220 mm og 195 mm. Its easier to install, compared to the flex. But I also use flextrack in curves. Before I install them, I solder several parts together and create the correct curvature, bending it into shape. Doing that, its much easier to have a nice curve. The MTL flextrack is easier to use in curves, because it will "memorise" the curve radius, and stay in the curvature you shape it, compared to the other brands that want to be straight again if you dont hold it in place.

    On my new layout I use Atlas in visible areas, and a mix of Peco and Märklin in hidden areas. I use what I have in my storage.

    For the insulation of the tracks, I use both the black Märklin types and now also the plastic Atlas types. Some times I also use a Dremel to cut the rail. But it will easy be misaligned, if you dont use some epoxy and glue it together.
    For connecting the power, I always solder the wires directly to the rails side.
    Living in Norway, its not easy to get Z-scale here, so I use the net.
    I hope this can be of some help to you.

    Check out my new layout here: http://www.zityedge.com
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2020
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  7. bostonjim

    bostonjim TrainBoard Member

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    Lots of good info, especially about cutting the rails. I often wondered if there was a negative effect regarding alignment. Thanks for posting. Jim
     
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  8. Reptilian Feline

    Reptilian Feline TrainBoard Member

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    Svein-Martin, your layout looks very nice. Do you prefer to order from Europe or the US? I know that sending things to Norway can be a pain when it comes to postage, packaging and taxes... at least from Sweden.
    Thanks for the tip about the joiners!
     
  9. Svein-Martin Holt

    Svein-Martin Holt TrainBoard Member

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    Thank you.
    I order from wherever I can have it. I have used ebay from Germany to buy some Märklin turnouts, but have a few shops in US I use, like zscale monster and Z Scale Hobo. Both great guys. Some times I dont need to pay the tax in Norway, sometimes I am charged the 25% "moms" tax. Its like a lottery, you win some times. :)
    And since we are not in the EU, buying from outside Norway, the VAT is charged from time to time.
     
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  10. SJ Z-man

    SJ Z-man TrainBoard Member

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    Atlas 2091 N scale Code 55 insulated joiners work fine on all track. As mentioned the Marklin metal joiners a just a bit narrow at the base and will extrude open with MTL track/flex.
     
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  11. Reptilian Feline

    Reptilian Feline TrainBoard Member

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    Would any code 55 joiners work, or just the Atlas ones?
     
  12. rray

    rray Staff Member

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    They will all work, any scale track that is code 55, but some rail is thicker and needs the joiner pried wider opened with a jewelers screwdriver. I have been using the Atlas N Scale code 55 rail joiners on my Z Scale Atlas track because that was all they offered until recently, so I cut them down in length then pry them opened to fit my rails.
     
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