I picked up a set of Hallmark's 2nd release (Kato-copy chassis) F3's. They're NP. The decals they use when painting these things are HORRIBLE- crayola yellow and the headlight area looks like steaming goose doo. How do I remove the old decals without sacrificing the paint? Also- What MT couplers do I screw onto these bad boys? Can I use a Z scale coupler that'll mate with N? I want these to look as Proto as possible. (I'll be using Kristal Klear to add windows and porthole glass, and etched "mesh" for the square side air filters). Lastly, these are noisy (I know).... any tricks to deaden sound? Should I coat the inside of the shell with liquid rubber or electrical tape? I plan on using TCS Z scale decoders and those nice dual headlights (with the metal "dish" etc.) in the nose (where do I get those?) Thanks guys!! (Shown with an Atlas RS11 for color difference)
Additional info- I did get a great deal on these on the 'bay, and the guy shipped them as-new very fast. I have no regrets on the purchase! Just wanna make 'em superb, ya know?
The only thing I can think of for removing decals is Micro-Sol but I've never tried it on painted brass and don't know what it will do to the paint. (Also, I sent you a PM on another topic but I don't know if it went through.) Andy Tetsu Uma
I thought the same.... AFAIK the paint used on metal is tougher than the micro-sol, I figure it's worth a try! Worst case scenario, I screw up the paint and I am "forced" to have them repainted in Loewy green And Andy, getting back to you now
If you screw up the paint you could proably just spray some more black on there and it would look fine. Kevin
Soooo..... Anyone know what MT couplers to screw on? Somebody's got to have done it before They truly are fantastically detailed units...... Air hoses, cut levers, the grills.... all in all, quite a sight in decent light. I broke them in a bit yesterday, the B is noisy in forward so I will realign its running gear. The A is about ~Bachmann Spectrum noise level, totally in bounds for me! (Usually have music playing when trains are running!)
I would definetely go with the Z scale couplers - I just don't know which ones. I met a guy from Aztek at the Galesburg show (and at TrainFest) who swears by them and I like the look. (I've got a brass Denver Zephyr set that I think is going to get the Z coupler treatment. )
I'd also be just as happy swapping to Z couplers on all my Intermountain F units; they look proto as heck and closer coupling would be very, very welcome. I'll do some looking and maybe a test buy, but I find it hard to believe there's not a dude on TB here who's screwed in a 906 or somethin'....
