Bonding Stryrene sheets to raw wood

Allen H Sep 22, 2013

  1. Allen H

    Allen H TrainBoard Supporter

    1,245
    975
    33
    I'm starting a new project and am looking for a little insight from others.

    I'm following a project where a fellow modeler built his superstructure out of plywood, he then covers it with sheet styrene that looks like corrugated metal siding.

    He uses CA glue to hold it in place, but I've never been a fan of CA glue as it always sees a bit brittle after awhile and I think it would let loose after time.

    I have thought of different types of glue to use but have thoughts about all of them.
    CA glue: might get brittle and let loose after time, it would have to be the gel type for the wood surface.
    Walthers Goo: if you were to use it like contact glue.
    Rubber cement: again use it like contact cement.
    Contact adhesive [water based]: This would work fine, but you basically have one shot to get the sheets set the first time.

    I have read about others such as Pliobond, Welder Glue, Latex Caulk, liquid plastic cement very heavily so that it melts into the wood grain.
    Also spray adhesive like 3M 77.

    What have you used with good results?
     
  2. RBrodzinsky

    RBrodzinsky Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

    5,695
    2,730
    98
    My two cents: use either latex caulk or Aileen's Tacky Glue. I've used both for bonding styrene to other surfaces, and you have plenty of adjustment time.
     
  3. Allen H

    Allen H TrainBoard Supporter

    1,245
    975
    33
    Thanks Rod,
    I suppose it's good idea to tape it in place or lay it flat with weight on it?
     
  4. Pete Nolan

    Pete Nolan TrainBoard Supporter

    10,583
    193
    123
    Krystal Klear also works.
     
  5. RBrodzinsky

    RBrodzinsky Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

    5,695
    2,730
    98
    Yes, a flat weight while it dries is best. Holds in place and presses flat
     
  6. JNXT 7707

    JNXT 7707 TrainBoard Member

    904
    2
    14
    I have used CA gel where bonding wood to styrene with good results...and have as a result stuck with it (sorry for the unintended pun).
    have used the Aleen's tacky glue a lot for putting scenery details down, I like it but it does have a tendency to release its hold on smooth plastic such as styrene. I have seen that as a good point personally in my applications, because if I decide to move/remove something I can.
     
  7. robwill84

    robwill84 TrainBoard Member

    173
    2
    13
    Look for a product called Gorilla impact tough super glue. It has rubber mixed into it that give it an amazing amount of flex, plus the toughness of super glue. It is in a medium viscosity forumula that gives about five seconds of working time before it cures. Its great stuff.
     
  8. LOU D

    LOU D TrainBoard Member

    1,412
    2
    23
    If you're not worried about warpage on the wood using something water based,try Weldbond glue.It looks like Elmer's,but it's a resin type glue,it will bond anything to anything,even plastic to metal.I use it mixed with Elmer's white glue for all my trackwork,absolutely bullet proof.I also mix a little Elmer's School Glue in to make it water soluble in case I want to reuse the track or roadbed later.I'd still recommend roughing up the back of the plastic a little with sandpaper..
     
  9. mikelhh

    mikelhh TrainBoard Member

    1,007
    240
    23
    I have a few ideas on how to do it in H0 but gee, they might not work in N
     
  10. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

    64,885
    13,958
    653
    Yup. HO scale adhesives usually don't work on N stuff. Ha ha. :)
     
  11. Allen H

    Allen H TrainBoard Supporter

    1,245
    975
    33
    Thanks Pete.
    This is the stuff that is normally used for filling windows and the like?
     
  12. Allen H

    Allen H TrainBoard Supporter

    1,245
    975
    33
    Thanks Rod!
     
  13. Allen H

    Allen H TrainBoard Supporter

    1,245
    975
    33
    I was originally told that this modelers uses some sort of CA, but the downside to it is that you av one shot to get it right and I might need to adjust it a bit.
    But thanks for the input.

    I would have never thought about Aleen's glue before.
     
  14. Allen H

    Allen H TrainBoard Supporter

    1,245
    975
    33
    This sounds interesting, I found some online but nothing local. Lots of Gorilla glue but none of the stuff with rubber.
    Will keep this in mind, though 5 secs may still not be enough time for this project.
    Thanks.
     
  15. Allen H

    Allen H TrainBoard Supporter

    1,245
    975
    33
    The wood is 1/2" and 1/4" plywood, so the warpage is not a concern.
    I haven't found this locally yet.
    Thanks
     
  16. Allen H

    Allen H TrainBoard Supporter

    1,245
    975
    33
    Well, let's hear them, you never know!
     
  17. Pete Nolan

    Pete Nolan TrainBoard Supporter

    10,583
    193
    123
    Yes, but I find it very good for the odd gluing details I face in building ships, such as yardarms to masts. I didn't catch what size surface you are gluing together. For large surfaces, I would use Aileen's Tacky Glue or even contact cement, although the latter might shadow through or melt some of the styrene, causing sinkholes.

    I often laminate balsa wood to styrene when I am building a simple hull, when it's simpler just to use balsa as a filler rather then building up the hull with styrene sections, keels, and skins. Testor's tube glue is my weapon of choice, but used with caution. A gentle constant pressure is needed--yes, I will stroke my styrene onto my balsa for more than a few minutes if that will give me the desired bond, without shadowing or cratering. The tube glue will sink into the balsa's pores, and form a good bond.

    My own glue formulation (25% toluol, 75% MEK) will bond styrene to wood, but it has to be flooded onto the styrene and pressed quickly and tightly against the wood, and make take a few tries--i.e., until the styrene gets soggy with the glue. This works well with smoth, close-grained wood, but not your ordinary plywood.
     
  18. mikelhh

    mikelhh TrainBoard Member

    1,007
    240
    23
    My suggestion is double-sided adhesive tape.
     
  19. John Moore

    John Moore TrainBoard Supporter

    12,029
    7,718
    171
    Among the ACC adhesives out there are some slow set varieties. One I have is called Slow Jet which is an extra thick professional grade in the Jet brand line. I have used this to laminate car sides since it gives some time to adjust things before setting. A link to the product. http://www.jetglues.com/images/products/slow-jet.shtml

    Other brands have their versions of the same basic thing. For an absolute type bond I recommend the following. A thin set ACC can be used to seal some of the wood pores and for thin woods strengthen them. Once the thin set has cured then use the slow set. Also gently rough up the plastic or metal material back to be laminated. Gives some more area for adhesion.
     
  20. bill pearce

    bill pearce TrainBoard Member

    619
    264
    18
    Don't forget the great all-around glue for things like this. Yellow carpenter's glue. Works every time. If it will hold ME flex to cork, it can hold styrene to plywood, and it is inexpensive, available even in some grocery stores and pharmacies, and inexpensive. Spread a very thin layer over the plywood, hold styrene in place with some weight for 30 minutes and you done.
     

Share This Page