Tim, I etched a flat piece and wrapped it around my brass tubes. Not much to the detail, but it's something. Mostly it is a bunch of indents to mark drill locations for other things later. Here is the chassis so far: The Yellow is small bits of sheet lead for weight and to bulk up that area to match a bigger dia. boiler. I also cut off the plastic light socket at the Green line to make room for more weight. Here is the boiler so far: And here we see the motor fitting in the scale width firebox:
Wow Chris, you develop new modeling skills as fast other people come up with ideas. That is going to be one nice loco. Keep us posted on the progress!
Chris, I am glad you got a good runner. If you notice that it gets jerky after a while, make sure to clean the brushes they get dirty fast. I am sure you know how but Ztrains has a great article with pictures on it. Mine ran really good for a few weeks and then started to sputter. Then I learned how to clean and lube. Now I figure it is regular maintance usually every month weather I run it or not. Keeps it running smooth. I am amazed at how well the mech matches up with the drawings! This will look amamzing when finished!
I have no doubts now about seeing that video soon Chris. The Berk will definitely be haulin' the freight and with all the space available for extra weight, it will be hauling a long string of it. The boiler looks good. A cab, domes, piping, stacks, trucks, walkways, injectors, etc. (the devils' in the details) then a trip to the paint shop and she'll be ready for revenue service. Do you have an extra wheel set for the trailung truck? The axle spacing looks like it's spot on, though the drivers are a bit undersized the overall effect will definitely be a big bad Berkshire. Thanks for sharing your progress, I can't wait for more. Steve F
Chris, That is something. It looks better than the cast brass in the pic. For the weld points you should try only one etched line and solder a brass wire on the line. Also if you are planing on adding water lines you should also etch them on the brass and solder different dia. brass wires. What are you planing for the front of the engine? Dan had recommended BLMA N scale lift rings for Stantions and I got some, it is perfect. Cant wait to see how this turns out... Kim
I will etch the smokebox front out of a few pieces stacked together. I did the same with the trailing truck sideframes, but haven't "built" them yet. I have the running boards made and air tanks to attach to them, they will have .006" stainless steel bands. Some of the boiler detail will be more 3D, but for the bands I really didn't want anything raised as the real boiler bands are very thin and in most photos don't even show up. Guess I could of etched thinner lines though, Oh well. What do you guys recommend to blacken this odd ball wheel? I haven't blackened any metal before, but I think most leave a flat finish and I would like it the same shiney black chrome look of the other wheels. Any ideas? Also the area in red was dug out from the motor block for wheel clearance on curves. Good thing they changed this plastic, that old clear stuff might of shattered...Yikes!
Kim told me that you can order any marklin spare part you need from www.lokshop.de so I would look into ordering the blackened version, and maybe borrowing one from someone until your ordered one shows up.
Awesome Chris, The boiler looks already great. If you would like big flames jumping out, I was working some times ago on an analog firebox simulation, small enough to be hided. Then it dissappeared in a shell because of DCC solution. If you where interested, I will dig it out and try to put it to an end in short time.
Glued on journal boxes from a MT truck. I'm sure it will look much better when painted since you see all the minute scratches in the pics. I'll put a small blob of glue on each side of the marker lights to make them look like globes. And I'll use a MV products headlight lens after painting. Going to bed now
Put'n on the Steam!! Chris, Looking outstanding!!! Progress for you is calculated in hours whereas it's calculated in days for me! Simply amazing!!! Can hardly wait to see the finished results!!! Hobo Tim
I love the comparasion to the marklin model! Yours makes the marklin look sad. It just goes to show how much more detailed their work could be. Can't wait to see the finished product!
Great work, Chris! The next thing we know, you'll be referring to the rest of us as N-ormous scale modelers!
Pressurized, Heated and HATED by DERM. They are constantly inspecting me. Not to mention the problems with waste etchant disposal. Chris, it is coming out great. Glad I sent you those artwork samples. You are learning and developing your own skills very quickly. Kudos!! I do disagree about the rivet size when using thicker metal. Example: It is the artwork that allows for the precise control. Yes, Photoplotting does cost $200, but it is worth it for me in what I do.
Bob, I'd much rather have you make these parts for me, but you know my limits with Adobe. I do have someone working on those boxcab drawings though. Perhaps you could post one of those colored artwork photos with a photo of the etched piece to give people here an idea of how it works. There are a few other home etchers here working in Z. I do think the price for etching is worth it, but for this project I'll live with the inverted rivets.
Nice work Criss I agree that for us "amateurs" the inverted rivets works just fine in Z-Scale. Actually some off the professionally made products with emboss rivets don't always look as good as inverted rivets in Z-Scale. I'm following with interest this thread to se if I can pick up a tip or two.
2 questions. Does this gear come off of the motor shaft? And does anyone have a left over 3 pole motor from a 2-8-2? I imagine when you replace a 3 pole with a 5 you swap out this whole piece. What I want to do is remove the motor armature, keep the shaft. Add a bearing/bushing for support and put a NWSL universal at the end for a motor in the tender. If that gear comes off then I could make my own shaft, but the motors shaft would be a perfect fit.
