Has anyone here heard or know anything about "Bearden Bearing Block Magic"? I was looking for some maintenance answers over on another site and came up on a thread fairly critical to one of the larger manufacturers. It seems this is modification to the worm gear system that may quiet down gear chatter in some locos.
Ron Bearden removes the inner bearing block on four axle diesels. There are nuances to this, but that is the main idea. The thread for his procedure is over on the Atlas forum. I saw his work on the recent GP15-1. I don't remember when Ron first introduced this technique, but it has been around for a long time. I have most of mine removed now; I do it as maintenance is needed. I think it is a good procedure. "Bearden Bearing Block Magic" terminology is akin to the "Billings Ballast Tool" and the "Straw Stop Sign?"
on some 4 axel locomotives it works like magic, they run smoother, and quieter, did wonders for my old RS-1. and the rest of my 4 axels have the mod done. if I ever have to dis assemble a 4 axel locomotive, I always do the mod.
I believe that in addition to removing the inner bearing block, Ron also advocates putting both little plastic pressure washers between the outside bearing block and the worm gear. The inner bearing block is a potential source of binding and noise, hence the removal. Note that this maneuver can only be performed on locos that don't have a universal joint in the drive shaft. That means most six-axles are out. Ron also thinks that having a "just right" amount of back-and-forth play in the worm gear reduces noise and friction. Hence the placement of the pressure washers.
This has been such a revolutionary 'fix' for so many that SOMEBODY has to commerate it with a "Bearden Bearing Block Removal Company' on their layout, using a good industrial shop building, and have a scrap gondola of bearing blocks as outbound loads. Maybe we could get Hays Bros. to cast it in resin.... Never forget that he was also the first person to prove that a 44-tonner could be made from a Kato critter; I copied his idea, and now even Bachmann is doing one.
Flash, IMHO we need somewhere here on Trainboard where these words of wisdom can be archived for newbys and some of us oldbys. (new word!) LOL! Or is there somewhere on Trainboard what I haven't visited where the words and wisdom of the sages are stored?
Probably the How To Forum. If you go to the HTF, it is a collection of past threads all about modeling. There is a lot of reading there if you go through it all. BTW, if you would like to nominate a thread for the HTF, feel free to do so. You can see all that info on a sticky at the HTF. The HTF is compilation of links to the original thread; that is why all the threads in the HTF are locked. You need to search within the HTF to locate the subject you are looking for, click on the link, then post your questions on the original thread. Hopefully the originator is still around to answer questions.
I have been researching this technique for about a week now and it seems to either work wonders for 90% or more that perform it, and for the remaining 10% there is just no change. I certainly plan on giving it a whirl once I get around to doing maintenance on locos. Jamie
Many thanks to all for the info provided in this thread! I finished working over my problem loco this afternoon and it now runs exactly like it should. I pulled the inner worm bearing blocks out, moved both thrust washers to the outer bearing blocks, and tweaked the tension on the frame screws. Rest assured, I'll be looking around the forum for more tricks of the trade. I can't tell you how overjoyed I am! I was getting so frustrated with these little engines and all the fooling around with the mechanisms. UGHH! Now, lets run some trains!:mbiggrin:
I have an Atlas RS1 that is quiet but when the throttle is closed ( Emergency Stop wise) it slames to a stop as if there are no flywheels in it! Is this bearing block removal a solution to this problem?
You hate to mess with a loco that is already quiet...... But yes, removing the inner bearing blocks and properly adjusting the position of the hex nut will result in reduced friction...... which results in increased speed and flywheel effect. And for the record-- while I have experimented with placing the extra washer (2 washers together) on the outside, I myself no longer do this. I use one washer. The reason being is we want to reduce all friction possible. Adding the extra washer just adds one more thing to go wrong and/or add friction. Now, why do people NOT get good results? 1. Poor positioning of the hex nut. This is the absolute secret. You must get this correct. 2. Bad washers. Some locos have bad washers. I don't remembers which locos, but some locos have washers where the hole was TO TIGHT!!!! If the hole is too tight, then the washer is actually locked onto the worm shaft and spins WITH the shaft. This is BAD and is a horrible cause for noise. The hole on such a washer should be opened up so the the washer slides easily on and off freely on the worm shaft. You then need the clean the burrs off the washer. 3. Something else is wrong in the loco- like bad gears, etc. Ron Bearden (with an E--- where bears live in a bear den )
So far the double washers and removal of the block have drastically quieted it down. The only issue left is tightening of the screws in the frame. If I crank them down, it binds the worms. Keep in mind, they are new bearing blocks. I'm going to run it in for a couple days. If it's still tight and I can't tighten the frames a little more, I'll ream the holes out a few thousandths for clearance. I wish I had known of your fix a long time ago. I've been tweaking on 3 Atlas MP-15s for 9 months. I love them when they are running well but really get frustrated with them when they act up. They seem to be the most finicky engines I have with the exception of a few pieces of brass steam. Kind of like kids that won't listen. LOL! You got any tips for the Micro Trains 2-6-0 NN3? LOL!!!
I just went through two Atlas GP15-1s and it did help the smoothness a little. It is a good procedure to accomplish with your B units. I believe it may be more effective with the older units. I will work on some old Atlas/kato U25Bs next.
I am about to install decoders in a pair of Atlas GP15-1 locos and will be performing this process on both. Is there any additional advice on getting the hex nuts adjusted correctly on the shaft in the flywheel or is it just a "by feel" process? These locos do have a bit of noise and I am interested to see how they are improved. Jamie
I have just used it on two LL C-424 that made lots of noises, now they are silently running. But I don't throw the bearings away, but put them in the engine's box. So I can restore the original (noisy) condition.
You mean adjust the "depth" of how far the hex nut goes into the flywheel? I don't think it is critical as long as it is approximately the same position as it was before. You can change it if you think there is too much slack in the shaft. Not hard to do at all.
